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07-19-2010, 04:46 PM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member
1991 34' Limited
Tyler
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 205
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brake assembly size 34' limited
Hi
I would like to replace all six brake assembies using the whole backing plate, shoes etc packages. What size is the backing plate and shoe size I need to order? I will buy the self adjusting type. I see the kits can be bought in a variety of weight stopping load pairs. IE 1 pair will stop 12,000 pounds. Since the trailer weighs less than 10,000lb and has six brake pairs - will the 2000# per pair be best?
Tim
Rolling in TN
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07-19-2010, 05:12 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvanwave
Hi
I would like to replace all six brake assembies using the whole backing plate, shoes etc packages. What size is the backing plate and shoe size I need to order? I will buy the self adjusting type. I see the kits can be bought in a variety of weight stopping load pairs. IE 1 pair will stop 12,000 pounds. Since the trailer weighs less than 10,000lb and has six brake pairs - will the 2000# per pair be best?
Tim
Rolling in TN
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Your rig has 12 inch brakes.
Extra braking capacity is always a plus, never a minus.
Andy
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07-19-2010, 05:27 PM
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#3
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3 Rivet Member
1960 24' Tradewind
Riverside
, California
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 189
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The brakes are rated per axle, not per wheel, 6k......3k per wheel...etc. don't forget that at any one point in braking or any rolling situation one (in the case of tandem) or 1 or 2 (in the case of a triple axle) axle may be the only one effectively acting on the situation, forward pitch of the trailer, speed bump, pot hole, all are factors that we don't normally think of, so for a dollar or two more, go with the 7.2 brake assembly.
Greg
__________________
1960 Tradewind
2007 Denali 6.2
2005 ST 1300 ABS
2005 Chevrolet SSR 6.0 LS2
airstreamlosangeles.com
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07-20-2010, 04:26 PM
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#4
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3 Rivet Member
1991 34' Limited
Tyler
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
Your rig has 12 inch brakes.
Extra braking capacity is always a plus, never a minus.
Andy
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I assume these are the 2" width? Thanks again for your help.
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07-20-2010, 05:29 PM
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#5
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3 Rivet Member
1960 24' Tradewind
Riverside
, California
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 189
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12 x 2 probably Alko-Kober (used to be Hayes) most common replacemnet now would be the Dexter.
Greg
__________________
1960 Tradewind
2007 Denali 6.2
2005 ST 1300 ABS
2005 Chevrolet SSR 6.0 LS2
airstreamlosangeles.com
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07-29-2010, 07:13 PM
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#6
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3 Rivet Member
1991 34' Limited
Tyler
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 205
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New assemblies came today. I plan on installing along with wheel bearing repacking. Will post pics. Can I use two floor jacks to raise one whole side of the AS at once to do the work??
Tim
__________________
Air Cid
2000 F250SD Crew Cab 4x4 V10
Reese WD Hitch
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07-29-2010, 07:26 PM
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#7
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_
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, .
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvanwave
...Can I...
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can or may?
either way the answers the same.
there are 100s of posts here on how, where, why and IF lifting is ok...
so its time2learn2search...
until then,
herez my view x2, in pix n werdz...
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f438...tml#post841915
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f457...tml#post428907
it would be WISE once lifted (use the tongue jack extended also),
to PLACE properly rated STANDS under the axle mounting plates...
cheers
2air'
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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07-29-2010, 07:45 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1971 27' Overlander
Central
, Ohio
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,365
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Stupid little tip learned from doing this job. Hook your wiring up before bolting the backing plate in place - especially if your using heat shrink connectors. Saves you from crawling under the trailer to do it later.....
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08-30-2010, 04:15 PM
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#9
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3 Rivet Member
1991 34' Limited
Tyler
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ganglin
Stupid little tip learned from doing this job. Hook your wiring up before bolting the backing plate in place - especially if your using heat shrink connectors. Saves you from crawling under the trailer to do it later.....
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Smart tip to me. I'm now ready to install the 6 full brake assemblies, will try to do 1 wheel at a time rather than a whole side at a time. Any other smart tips?
__________________
Air Cid
2000 F250SD Crew Cab 4x4 V10
Reese WD Hitch
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08-30-2010, 05:09 PM
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#10
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_
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, .
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
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yeah take photos of each step ...
they might help the next person ...
OR help you if/when problems arise.
cheers
2air'
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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08-31-2010, 03:19 PM
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#11
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3 Rivet Member
1991 34' Limited
Tyler
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman
yeah take photos of each step ...
they might help the next person ...
OR help you if/when problems arise.
cheers
2air'
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Will do - pictures are a great way to 'remember' what things looked like when the were still working.
__________________
Air Cid
2000 F250SD Crew Cab 4x4 V10
Reese WD Hitch
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08-31-2010, 04:19 PM
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#12
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Moderator dude
1966 26' Overlander
Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 7,508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvanwave
Will do - pictures are a great way to 'remember' what things looked like when the were still working.
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And how it goes back together.
>>>>>>>>>>Action
__________________
1966 Mercury Park Lane 4 DR Breezeway 410 4V, C-6, 2.80 - Streamless.
1966 Lincoln 4 door Convertible 462 4V 1971 Ford LTD Convertible 429 4V Phoenix ~ Yeah it's hot however it's a dry heat!
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09-05-2010, 09:30 PM
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#13
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3 Rivet Member
1991 34' Limited
Tyler
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 205
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Well I completed swaping all six brake asseblies today. A few things I learned along the way:
- check new assemblies out before installing. Several of mine had springs loose, adjusters mis aligned, and cables for auto adjust disconnected. Nothing too big to fix but best done before installation
- AS axles are supposed to have a slight bow upward. After a semi-paniced call to Inland RV I found that this was normal.
- Used this time to also inspect both sides of tires for damage etc, inspect (and caulk) wheel wells, change shocks, repack bearings.
- PO said brakes etc were good, however, 3 of six brakes were not working because of broken wires, frozen adjusters, or bad magnets. Dont trust PO stataements always check for your self
-Heat shrink/ crimp connections seemed best, installed with small propane torch to heat shrink connections (alomst burned barke wires once)
- if you can turn a wrench and follow instructions, many of which i found in the forums, its straight forward but time consuming. It took me 2.5 days to do 6 wheels but I'm picky and not a shop.
- when bolting new assembly back plate, be sure to not pinch your brake wires between the backingplate and the mounting plate (did that once and almost sheared the wires)
- plan on 3 cans of brake clean for six wheels to clean bearings and drum, also 3 rolls of shop towels
- resecure feed wires to frame so as to not have them hanging loose after install
Well worth the time and learning involved.
__________________
Air Cid
2000 F250SD Crew Cab 4x4 V10
Reese WD Hitch
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09-05-2010, 09:41 PM
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#14
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Site Team
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa
, ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,219
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Sounds like a good job done. Gonna show us any photos?
__________________
“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.” ...John Wayne...........................
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09-05-2010, 10:20 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvanwave
Well I completed swaping all six brake asseblies today. A few things I learned along the way:
- check new assemblies out before installing. Several of mine had springs loose, adjusters mis aligned, and cables for auto adjust disconnected. Nothing too big to fix but best done before installation
- AS axles are supposed to have a slight bow upward. After a semi-paniced call to Inland RV I found that this was normal.
- Used this time to also inspect both sides of tires for damage etc, inspect (and caulk) wheel wells, change shocks, repack bearings.
- PO said brakes etc were good, however, 3 of six brakes were not working because of broken wires, frozen adjusters, or bad magnets. Dont trust PO stataements always check for your self
-Heat shrink/ crimp connections seemed best, installed with small propane torch to heat shrink connections (alomst burned barke wires once)
- if you can turn a wrench and follow instructions, many of which i found in the forums, its straight forward but time consuming. It took me 2.5 days to do 6 wheels but I'm picky and not a shop.
- when bolting new assembly back plate, be sure to not pinch your brake wires between the backingplate and the mounting plate (did that once and almost sheared the wires)
- plan on 3 cans of brake clean for six wheels to clean bearings and drum, also 3 rolls of shop towels
- resecure feed wires to frame so as to not have them hanging loose after install
Well worth the time and learning involved.
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When the original torsion axle "trailing arms" or "torsion arms" are parallel to the chassis, or going upward as they go rearward, is a sign of the rubber rods having expired.
Never going upward, as quoted above, is OK.
A "Dura-torque axle" article appears in the Airstream Central portion of this Forums, that teaches what a torsion axle is all about, as well as how to check them out.
Perhaps a typo by tvanwave.
Andy
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09-06-2010, 03:19 PM
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#16
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3 Rivet Member
1991 34' Limited
Tyler
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aage
Sounds like a good job done. Gonna show us any photos?
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I have a few below but not as many as planned - camera battery kept going dead after 1-2 pics (ordered new battery today).
first two pics -Blocked wheels
second two pics -Checked assemblies for shoe alignment and adjuster positioning (not correct in these pics but an easy fix before install)
third set of pics - before & after new assemblies
Last pic - the bone yard
While under the AS I saw that the axel looked bent between the wheels, and was by 1/2 as confirmed by my 48" level. A picture of my face when I thought I was looking at buying 3 new axels would have been a good one to have. I'm glad Andy set me straight.
__________________
Air Cid
2000 F250SD Crew Cab 4x4 V10
Reese WD Hitch
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09-06-2010, 07:53 PM
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#17
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Site Team
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa
, ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,219
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Thanks for the photos. Funny, from the last photo, the brake shoes don't look all that worn, but the entire assembly does look old.
Maybe your trailer doesn't have many miles on it...?
__________________
“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.” ...John Wayne...........................
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09-07-2010, 03:40 PM
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#18
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3 Rivet Member
1991 34' Limited
Tyler
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aage
Thanks for the photos. Funny, from the last photo, the brake shoes don't look all that worn, but the entire assembly does look old.
Maybe your trailer doesn't have many miles on it...?
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Yes, the shoes all had plenty of lining on them but magnets, adjusters looked worn for most wheels. For very limited money and a few hours work everything is new; a fraction of the cost of 1 day in the hospital. Not sure about miles but the inside was in very good shape for a 1991. We have had it since Feb this year and are slowly going through the systems.
__________________
Air Cid
2000 F250SD Crew Cab 4x4 V10
Reese WD Hitch
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