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Old 04-12-2012, 04:38 AM   #15
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2007 25' Classic
kendal , cumbria, UK
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Dave,

There is only one fuse on the brake controller and that is on the black feed to the controller which is uaually a 20 or 30 amp circuit breaker.

Check that the blue wire from the brake controller, 14 gauge (20 amp) for a single axle, goes straight to the brakes with no other connections or fuse in that line.

Don't know if you have changed the trailer end 7 blade US plug for a UK round pin plug but the wiring should be :

left turn - red
right turn - brown
ground - white
charge wire - black
running lights - green
brakes - blue

Now the most important part of the US to UK conversion - a separate wire will have to be run from the socket (trailer end) to the stop lights.

In our trailer rear light cluster, we disconnected the centre back-up light (clear lens) and fitted an amber lens and used that llight for turn signals. The other two red lenses were used for running and stop lights.

I suspect that your electrician is not familiar with the US two bulb system and in converting to our 3 bulb system has in some way used the blue brake wire to operate bulbs.

I know how to convert to UK wiring but find it difficult to put down on paper!!!

Incidentally, is your ex-electrician/light convertion guy the infamous Mr. R...., who is now wanted by the police?

John in the UK
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Old 04-12-2012, 02:28 PM   #16
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2010 16' Sport
Insch , Aberdeenshire
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by WK57ABF
Dave,

There is only one fuse on the brake controller and that is on the black feed to the controller which is uaually a 20 or 30 amp circuit breaker.

Check that the blue wire from the brake controller, 14 gauge (20 amp) for a single axle, goes straight to the brakes with no other connections or fuse in that line.

Don't know if you have changed the trailer end 7 blade US plug for a UK round pin plug but the wiring should be :

left turn - red
right turn - brown
ground - white
charge wire - black
running lights - green
brakes - blue

Now the most important part of the US to UK conversion - a separate wire will have to be run from the socket (trailer end) to the stop lights.

In our trailer rear light cluster, we disconnected the centre back-up light (clear lens) and fitted an amber lens and used that llight for turn signals. The other two red lenses were used for running and stop lights.

I suspect that your electrician is not familiar with the US two bulb system and in converting to our 3 bulb system has in some way used the blue brake wire to operate bulbs.

I know how to convert to UK wiring but find it difficult to put down on paper!!!

Incidentally, is your ex-electrician/light convertion guy the infamous Mr. R...., who is now wanted by the police?

John in the UK
John,

I am going to check which wire the fuse is in this weekend.

The auto reset circuit breaker is in place from the battery to the brake controller, so that's fine. There is also another wire which has appeared to make turn and signal ( not explaining this well) and the indicators, etc are fine.

The conversion guy is as you state above......say no more, am only glad we didn't pay too much to him.

Thanks again John......incidentally a, when do you reckon you'll be up at Findhorn? We are in Insch which is not that far away.....

Cheers,

Dave (07557 009649)
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Old 04-12-2012, 03:00 PM   #17
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You state the circuit has a 20 amp fuse protection. Normal current draw would be about 1/2 to 2/3 of that.

I suspect you have a hot circuit (blue wire as stated above) that is grounded (earth) after the brake light switch and before it gets to the load. (the light or lights) When the brake pedal or controller actuates the brake light switch and circuit the current goes to the least resistance. To ground (or earth) instead of the lights.

Look for a cut wire (Red or brown) at the bulb socket from the old 2 lite system touching ground. Or the blue wire swapped for the white wire.

Depending on the wire harness running a seperate wire may be easier than using the existing wire harness.


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Old 04-12-2012, 03:43 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davestewart2 View Post
John,

Thanks for the PM!

I have a device that I can stick in the fuse socket, as I am now curious as to how much current this is drawing.....maybe a short is causing excessive current draw? Any idea how much is ' normal'?

Dave
Electric brakes take about 3 to 3.5 amps per wheel. It is a good way to know if all the electric parts of the brakes are working to measure the current. Single axle should be around 6-7 amps, double around 12-14 amps.
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Old 04-12-2012, 04:03 PM   #19
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Please correct me if I am wrong, I believe the brake (indicator) lights and the electric brake feed to operate the electric brakes are two seperate circuits.Each with their own circuit protection.

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Old 04-15-2012, 01:50 PM   #20
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2010 16' Sport
Insch , Aberdeenshire
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 17
Latest and greatest:

- Checked the break lights and running light and they all work okay.
- Disconnected the blue wire (brake on AS) activated brake pedal in Tow Vehicle (Fuse blows).

- Haven't managed to determine which line the fuse is in yet as it was snowing a good part of the weekend and freezing cold.
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Old 04-17-2012, 04:06 PM   #21
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2010 16' Sport
Insch , Aberdeenshire
Join Date: Apr 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davestewart2
Latest and greatest:

- Checked the break lights and running light and they all work okay.
- Disconnected the blue wire (brake on AS) activated brake pedal in Tow Vehicle (Fuse blows).

- Haven't managed to determine which line the fuse is in yet as it was snowing a good part of the weekend and freezing cold.
- all lights checked and no problem there.
- eliminated tow vehicle
- only thing we haven't managed to check is the wheel units themselves
- phew!
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Old 04-22-2012, 01:59 PM   #22
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2010 16' Sport
Insch , Aberdeenshire
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by WK57ABF
Dave,

There is only one fuse on the brake controller and that is on the black feed to the controller which is uaually a 20 or 30 amp circuit breaker.

Check that the blue wire from the brake controller, 14 gauge (20 amp) for a single axle, goes straight to the brakes with no other connections or fuse in that line.

Don't know if you have changed the trailer end 7 blade US plug for a UK round pin plug but the wiring should be :

left turn - red
right turn - brown
ground - white
charge wire - black
running lights - green
brakes - blue

Now the most important part of the US to UK conversion - a separate wire will have to be run from the socket (trailer end) to the stop lights.

In our trailer rear light cluster, we disconnected the centre back-up light (clear lens) and fitted an amber lens and used that llight for turn signals. The other two red lenses were used for running and stop lights.

I suspect that your electrician is not familiar with the US two bulb system and in converting to our 3 bulb system has in some way used the blue brake wire to operate bulbs.

I know how to convert to UK wiring but find it difficult to put down on paper!!!

Incidentally, is your ex-electrician/light convertion guy the infamous Mr. R...., who is now wanted by the police?

John in the UK
John,

A bit of progress this weekend

The wiring you stated above is spot on and the yellow wire (not mentioned above) is used as the brake light, so brake controller and brake lights are on two different circuits on the caravan. The current draw on the brake controller wire was about 6 amps, which for a single axle is okay. When I connected the battery across white and black it blew the fuse in my multimeter, but this wire wasn't connected with the previous wiring?

Anyway, this leads me to believe it is not the cars wiring, so am calling a mobile auto electrician tomorrow!

More to come.

Dave
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:07 PM   #23
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2010 16' Sport
Insch , Aberdeenshire
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 17
Finally got to the bottom of the problem!

Had a mobile towbar fitting company come look:

- plugged the test box into the truck and all worked fine
- attached the lead from the trailer to the truck and blew a fuse.
- the fuse was in the lighting circuit which we had already checked by connecting a battery across each circuit individually and checking that they worked properly.
- the plug which connects the trailer to the truck had faulty wiring. This particular one was a sealed version that we couldn't rewire, so buying a new one and length of cable sorted out the issue.
- planning on getting out into the Highlands of Scotland and over to the Western Isles too this Summer!

Thanks to all those who contributed with suggestions and especially to John, here in the UK.......

Dave
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