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Old 05-13-2011, 09:29 PM   #1
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Baffled by P2 Brake Controller

Just got home from towing AS from storage, 22 miles. On the way, when i would apply the brakes, the controller read out would go .06, .09 and then to o.L for over load.

If i put it in park at a stop light, pull the manual lever over and set it to 6.5, then when i stepped on the brakes it would show 5.4. But then when i took it out of park and next time i braked same issue.

Also when idling, am getting a 5.H which says brake wire short.

When i got home the rear brakes on the Tundra smelled hot, which leads me to believe they were doing the bulk of the work.

I can sit at a stop sign, slide the manual lever over and the trailer brakes will hold the truck if i let off the truck brakes, so i know they are working in some fashion.

I'm really baffled and don't want to ruin my truck brakes. Some have suggested setting controller at 6.5, then driving 25 mph and then using the manual lever to lock the brakes up, then back off until it doesnt lock up.

i did installation following the Tekonsha instructions including their Tundra connector.

Need some help here because have 75 mile trip to state park tomorrow.

thanks in advance.
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Old 05-13-2011, 09:59 PM   #2
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Look under the trailer and make sure that one wheel has a broken or loose wire. If it is detecting a short there is probably going to be one.
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Old 05-13-2011, 10:05 PM   #3
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Thanks i will try that at first light. headed to wally world to get some stuff for the planned trip. if it's a broken wire, can it be crimp connectored back together?

also with a short would the brakes still hold when manual slide was held over?
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Old 05-14-2011, 08:13 AM   #4
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Okay. So i have looked under trailer and see no apparent broken wires, but see all good reasons for AS to have 16 inch wheels... talk about no clearance to slide around under the belly pan.... ok back to the story

the only thing i see that seems questionable is that on the street side back wheel, the rubber sleeve over the wire connectors seems a little odd to me, almost as if one of the connectors may have come apart because i can almost pinch it totally together with my fingers.... is this possible? and if so, how do i get the rubber sleeve moved to see?
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Old 05-14-2011, 08:29 AM   #5
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Goal15,
Take a utility knife and carefully cut the cover from the wire connection behind the drum. You will see the connection and can replace the connector if needed. I used 12 gauge barrel crimp connectors with shrink tubinq over them, got good water-resistant connection.

I have also found broken connections at the strain relief plug at the immediate exterior of the brake backing plate, and then repaired them same as above.

Jim
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Old 05-14-2011, 08:32 AM   #6
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Thanks Jim

I will try that. I would bet that the connector has come loose on that wire.

Hope all is well with you and your better half :-)

Thanks
Dana
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Old 05-14-2011, 09:13 AM   #7
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Well that connection appeared to be solid... although I think it could stand to be better. cleaned the 7 pin and will take it around the neighborhood to see if there was an improvement .... stay tuned lol
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Old 05-14-2011, 09:56 AM   #8
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All hail the power of WD 40. Cleaned the umbilical, sprayed some magic juice on it and voila.... no more SH or o.L on the controller, getting good number readouts when stopping. think the brakes will need to be adjusted because i can't tell if they are locking up for sure on the 25 mph test so im going with boost 1 for the moment and dialing it up to about 7... now off to get this flat fixed and to borrow a phrase from some NASCAR analyst (lol) boogity, boogity, boogity... let's go camping.
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Old 05-14-2011, 12:35 PM   #9
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Hi Dana,
Wheel lockup just doesn't happen for a loaded trailer on dry pavement, despite Tekonsha instructions to aim for it. Best you can demand is good strong braking force. Be sure to warm the brakes one-quarter mile with partial pedal pressure firat, then go for the test sequence.

Our litmus test for brakes tuning is for the trailer brakes to very slightly lead the truck brakes or as close to even as we can match truck and trailer effect. Seems to be working okay for our setup. We have 75,000 miles on our truck's brakes and 45,000 miles on the trailer's brakes. Just pulled annual maintenance on trailer's curb side brakes. Seals held tight against grease, grease in bearings was fine, and drum brake shoe linings still had 3/16" on all four shoes.

We had the drums turned, replaced the entire brake unit with new Dexter assemblies, put new E rated (but same size) tires on, and the curbside is ready to go. We didn't choose 10ply rated tires, tire dealer wanted us to have these at same price as the D rated ones. Oh yeah, still have the street side wheels to do before we go anywhere.

All this is part of our trailer's five year anniversary maintenance, with new brakes, tires, and completely restored a-frame and cleaned up hitch, fullly weighed and adjusting hitch accordingly. And a replacement solar charge controller, since the original one (a little over three years old) just cannot wake itself up in the mornings.

With any luck we can go an entire year before we pull major maintenance again, and then we will be doing it for the Alyeska Caravan summer of 2012.

Good luck on your brakes, Dana.

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Old 05-14-2011, 10:19 PM   #10
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I installed a P2 recently at the recommendation of many on the forum. The first trip we went on was to Disney. I was careful to unplug for the week we were there. Getting ready to leave and the battery was dead. We finally got it started and drove 12 hours with out turning the truck off. At home I spent days tracing electrical and then discovered the controller was bleeding through and was the problem. Once you work out the problem I think you will be happy with the unit, I am. Good luck.
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Old 05-15-2011, 12:06 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DreamStreamr View Post
Wheel lockup just doesn't happen for a loaded trailer on dry pavement, despite Tekonsha instructions to aim for it. Best you can demand is good strong braking force. Be sure to warm the brakes one-quarter mile with partial pedal pressure first, then go for the test sequence.


Jim

Hi, I will have to respectfully disagree with this statement. With the brake controller properly set-up, brakes seated in, and shoes adjusted properly, they will lock up at 25 MPH as per Tekonsha instructions. Then back off just enough so they won't lock up. I had a broken wire on one of my wheels.
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Old 05-15-2011, 07:52 AM   #12
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Bob,
I guess I'm just not adjusting them tightly enough, I don't know. On neither our CCD 22 nor on this CCD 25, regardless of who adjusted the brakes or the amount of gain, the brakes have not ever locked up on application of controller full lever. Your pictures are great, they tell the story well.

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Old 05-15-2011, 07:33 PM   #13
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Check the cannon plug

Once I got every thing set up, I took the AS on a very mountainous road with steep grades. Part way there I lost brakes and was a difficult situation. I made sure all terminals were clean and purchased the grease you use for electrical connections. I also used it on all bulbs in external lights. It is great stuff.
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Old 05-15-2011, 09:11 PM   #14
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Update

Went out this weekend and after cleaning the contacts on 7 pin it worked all the way to state park 75 miles away. On the way home about halfway it started to show SH again when i stopped to peruse directions. I got out and wiggled the drivers side back wheel wire that i had suspected, got back in truck and it returned to acting normally the rest of the way home... so it looks like that needs to be fixed even though i couldnt find and obvious break. But i know they controller and brakes were working because after 2.5 hours of driving, my back wheels on Tundra were barely warm, so brakes weren't getting overused.
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