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Old 01-16-2007, 08:43 PM   #1
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Anyone know how this worked?

A 63 Overlander I bought had this Stromberg Hydraulic Brake on the tonque.
It has a master cylinder on the back and had a hydraulic line running to the first axle. The second axle has electrical wiring running to it. The unit was rusty and the lever wouldn't move til I cleaned it up.

The lever's function on the "Brake" seems to me to be a parking brake/ break away.

Also I see in late 50's pricelist there was an option for a $10 "hydraulic brake".

Is this that option and was this used just as a parking/breakaway brake?
Or was this also plumbed into the TV's hydraulic brake lines also?
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Old 01-16-2007, 11:05 PM   #2
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My 63 did not have one but it does look like some kind of parking/breakaway brake. Looks like the break away cable could be attached thourough the loop. If it did breakaway though, I do not see how the brake would continue to be applied. Looks like you would also lose half of your braking capacity with only two wheels electrified. I think I would replace the two hydrallic backing plates and relpace them with electrics for $50 each and go with a regular electric breakaway switch.
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Old 01-17-2007, 07:13 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbond
A 63 Overlander I bought had this Stromberg Hydraulic Brake on the tonque.
It has a master cylinder on the back and had a hydraulic line running to the first axle. The second axle has electrical wiring running to it. The unit was rusty and the lever wouldn't move til I cleaned it up.

The lever's function on the "Brake" seems to me to be a parking brake/ break away.

Also I see in late 50's pricelist there was an option for a $10 "hydraulic brake".

Is this that option and was this used just as a parking/breakaway brake?
Or was this also plumbed into the TV's hydraulic brake lines also?
Hi jbond; This set up did not have a electric breakaway system. A hydraulic
cylinder with a piston was used as breakaway feature. It could have been used as parking brake as well, however after being applied for a long period of time, the lining would freeze onto the drum. That idea was abandoned in a short time. This system was never tapped into tow vehicle. I recommend that you upgrade it to electric brakes with a breakaway switch, and a trailer mounted battery. Thanks "boatdoc"
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Old 01-17-2007, 07:30 AM   #4
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That sure cleaned up nicely but as the others have said, I would upgrade to electric brakes on both axles and an electric breakaway switch. Maybe this cleaned up part can go in a museum because its probably the cleanest one in history.

Brad
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Old 01-17-2007, 07:45 AM   #5
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Thanks! I planned on replacing it. Just curious on how this thing was suposed to be used. BTW there's a big spring inside the cylinder that would apply pressure to the master cylinder if the break away loop was tripped.
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Old 01-17-2007, 12:09 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbond
Thanks! I planned on replacing it. Just curious on how this thing was suposed to be used. BTW there's a big spring inside the cylinder that would apply pressure to the master cylinder if the break away loop was tripped.

A cylinder with a long hose was tied into the hydraulic brake line at the rear of the tow vehicle.

That "slave" cylinder was held in place on the master cylinder, which was mounted on the front of the trailer. Airstream back then had hydraulic brakes and sometimes one axle was electric and the other was hydraulic.

That system was outlawed in the mid 60's. The slave cylinder would displace more brake fluid that the new tow vehicle systems contained.

It does make a nice "collectors" item, but it's useless on your trailer.

But, during it's day, it was not too bad.

Andy
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Old 01-17-2007, 06:24 PM   #7
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Wow!

That was some pretty cool technology for its day!

I liked it so much that I saved several from units that I installed new axles on, for various customers, when I was the Axleman.

You sure did a bang up job of cleaning it up Im suspecting that you bead blasted it by the appearance.

Neat post,
Henry
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Old 01-17-2007, 08:14 PM   #8
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Yep bead blasting works great.
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Old 01-20-2007, 06:41 PM   #9
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Bead Blasting Needed...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jbond
Yep bead blasting works great.
Howdy, Herb. Nice looking device! But not as shiny as your trailer.

How do I find bead blasting shops? For the taillight castings on our '73 31' Sovereign, beadblasting was suggested as a way to restore the finish. Maybe I can send them to someone?

Thanks for sharing.
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Old 01-24-2007, 08:33 PM   #10
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Auto restoration shops or auto machine shop will have a bead blaster. Can be glass beads, sand, walnut shells or a variety of other things that are used in a blaster. BTW, I do not recommend sand.

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Old 01-24-2007, 09:22 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Auto restoration shops or auto machine shop will have a bead blaster. Can be glass beads, sand, walnut shells or a variety of other things that are used in a blaster. BTW, I do not recommend sand.

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Sand? Isn't that what they have in the dry-heat desert in Arizona?

I agree: no sand blasting, since it potentially wears metal away. Thanks for your ideas regarding auto-restoration or machine shops. I'll check around here locally.
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Old 01-30-2007, 05:29 PM   #12
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Actually not much sand in AZ. The ground is mostly rock and hard pack soil called caliche. AZ Master Gardener Manual: Caliche Actually about as hard as concrete.

I wish we had sand.

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Old 07-04-2011, 11:21 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Action View Post
Actually not much sand in AZ. The ground is mostly rock and hard pack soil called caliche. AZ Master Gardener Manual: Caliche Actually about as hard as concrete.

I wish we had sand.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action
The dry washes in AZ are filled with sand. (home of the sand trout)
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