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Old 05-05-2011, 08:34 AM   #1
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1979 Argosy Minuet 7.3 Metre
Hill country , Texas
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All in one replacement hubs, brakes, bearings.

Hello!

I have a 24 Argosy Minuet I'm trying to get on the road. I know you can order brake assemblies but does anyone know of a bolt on solution for updating hubs, brakes, and bearings all in one shot? What's the best brand? My trailer has 10'' drum brakes I believe. I found one at Harbor Freight but the brakes didn't work in reverse! Just thought I'd ask the knowlegable folks here on the forum and hopefully save some time.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 05-05-2011, 08:57 AM   #2
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I recommend Southwest wheel.

Trailer Parts from trailerpart.com

They have a store in San Antonio.
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Old 05-05-2011, 09:06 AM   #3
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etrailer.com in MO has just about everything. Might give them a call,
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Old 05-12-2011, 04:21 PM   #4
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1979 Argosy Minuet 7.3 Metre
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Awesome info! My Argosy has 10in brakes where as it's Airstream counterparts have 12. Should I consider upgrading at this time? Has anyone modified their brakes in this manner?

Also, most of these assemblies apply braking power only in Forward. Can anyone chime in on whether You need brake power in both for a 24 footer? I've never had a trailer with brakes, sorry for the nebie questions!

Thanks!
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Old 05-12-2011, 04:36 PM   #5
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In order to change to 12" brakes, you must change axles. The bolt pattern for the backing plate is different on each size.

Bill

Quote:
Originally Posted by ArgosyGypsy View Post
Awesome info! My Argosy has 10in brakes where as it's Airstream counterparts have 12. Should I consider upgrading at this time? Has anyone modified their brakes in this manner?

Also, most of these assemblies apply braking power only in Forward. Can anyone chime in on whether You need brake power in both for a 24 footer? I've never had a trailer with brakes, sorry for the nebie questions!

Thanks!
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Old 05-12-2011, 04:38 PM   #6
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Aren't the 10" brakes wider than the 12" ones?

Or is it just another case of a gap in my memory?
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Old 05-12-2011, 05:33 PM   #7
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Aren't the 10" brakes wider than the 12" ones?

Or is it just another case of a gap in my memory?
Yes, the 10" brakes are 10x2 1/4", vs 12x2". The actual difference is 1.5 square inches per brake assembly.
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Old 05-12-2011, 05:38 PM   #8
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10 is good

10" brakes are wider than 12" brakes. 12" brakes have about 9% more contact area with the drum.
On a trailer of your size, 10" is more than adequate in my opinion.
The most important thing is to keep them adjusted properly. Like old cars and trucks; the brake adjustment was part of the routine maintenance. The amount of brake pad is important as well, especially if the pad is riveted to the shoe. You don't want the pad wearing down to the point where the rivets contact the drum.
New cars and trucks have self adjusting brakes (on drum type systems). Even self adjusting brakes will get out of whack, especially if you don't back up while pumping the brakes.
It isn't that the system doesn't apply the brake in reverse. The brake controller is activated by the brake pedal in the TV. Some controllers have a pendulum type sensor (or something similar) that applies more brake with a hard stop.
The problem is inherent to drum brakes in that they don't work as well when backing up. It's the way they are designed with the clam shell type of action when applied. In a lot of cases the rear brake shoe has a larger pad than the front brake shoe, mostly on cars and trucks.
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Old 05-12-2011, 05:56 PM   #9
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You should evaluate the condition of the axles. Many from that era have failed by now. If they have failed you can get complete axles that include brakes.

If the axles are OK I would suggest that do try to change the size of the brakes.

Electric brakes generally do not work effectively in reverse although there is at least a little bit of friction. The tow vehicle brakes are sufficient at the low speeds typically encountered while driving backwards.
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Old 05-12-2011, 10:46 PM   #10
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1979 Argosy Minuet 7.3 Metre
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Awesome Info! Man I tell you it s invaluable for someone like me_ I'm on a budget and love to travel.. seems like it was easier backpacking across Coast Rica!

My axles seem like they need replacing from service life but are parallel, not totally sagging when I look at tires. I haven't done pull tire jack up axle test though. What would it hurt to replace all hubs, bearing, brakes, and run original axles for until the winter/ time to research best VALUE in axles for me?

Could the drums/ hubs warp?

Is it ok to run new stuff on an old axle then switch it over bc it shoul be balanced as an assembly anyways?


Please forgive me if I have made oversights, as I'm still new an info gathering..Trying to make an informed decision in vintage trailer world is interesting. Time to flip the record...at least I can work that!

Thank you!!
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:38 PM   #11
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Have you determined that all of the parts need replacement?

How much traveling do you plan to do before installing new axles?

Do the original brakes still work?

Have you adjusted the brakes if they still work?

You mentioned replacing the hubs. Why? If the spindles and hubs are not damaged. All that should be necessary is to determine if the bearings are in good shape and packed with the proper grease. Bearings and seals are available at most auto parts stores.
There are plenty of videos on the internet showing how to pack wheel bearings and adjust brakes.
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:44 PM   #12
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Since your trailer is 32 years old, I would say that it is a safe bet that your axles are shot. Just go ahead and replace the axles and brakes as an assembly- just do it right the first time. Read thru all the axle threads and you will see what I mean. Sounds like if you order from Andy or Collin you won't be sorry.

Dan
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Old 05-13-2011, 06:16 AM   #13
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What could it hurt?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ArgosyGypsy View Post
What would it hurt to replace all hubs, bearing, brakes, and run original axles for until the winter/ time to research best VALUE in axles for me?
Your Argosy is a different trailer than mine, so things may be different for you. I'm not trying to instill FUD in you. Just a few words on my personal experience.
I bought Abby in November 2010. I knew that her axles needed to be replaced. I also knew that she had a case of rear end separation. I decided to defer the repairs until after we had done some camping. On trip #1 we towed a short distance to the Blanco Christmas rally. No problems. Trip two we towed to Big Bend NP. Halfway there the water heater tank split open and flooded the rear of the trailer. Problems. We still had a good time, but I believe that having axles with no spring left in them and towing a long distance contributed to the demise of the water heater.

Considering value, have a look at my very own axle thread. You'll see that I replaced my axles and I went with the axle industry standard 10" brakes on my new #3,500 Axis axles from Colin Hyde Trailer Restorations.

If you plan on replacing your axles in the near future, you should just make sure the bearings are serviceable, re pack them, adjust your brakes to correct specs and continue to operate until you replace the axles.
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Old 05-13-2011, 08:11 AM   #14
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1979 Argosy Minuet 7.3 Metre
Hill country , Texas
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Thank you for all the advice! I see there are lots of options and a spectrum I need to put inot play. Here's my plan:

I'm gonna get into the wheels and evaluate the condition of bearings and seals. Replace seals/ repack bearding and clean up and adjust brakes. I do want to try to get to the San Marcos Rally coming up. I live near Lake Travis so that's not too far. I'd also like to take it to the coast a few times this sumemr if possible.

Oh man, I didn't even know rear seperation was possible. I'd heard of tail droop..I'm just going to put positive energy into the brakes and bearings for now and maybe someone at the rally can give me their seperation opinion

Thanks and I plan to post some pics if I run into trouble!
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