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Old 01-21-2014, 11:51 AM   #1
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Actuator

Well my Actibrake actuator finally quit on me. Coming back from the Balloon Fiesta, I noticed some problems in western Kansas. Made it back to Indiana with truck brakes only.
What actuator would work the best as a replacement?
I have a 2011 dodge 2500 with engine brake (thank goodness really helped coming home), pulling a 30' Classic with a slide out. The trailer has disc brakes, love them.
The truck has a factory brake controller that has worked very good with the present system.
Doesn't seem to be much cost difference in the ones I have looked at, just want to go with what is gonna work best.
Thanks; Hickory
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Old 01-21-2014, 11:55 AM   #2
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As you probably know the Actibrake is no longer made. I think Airstream uses the Dexter actuator now, and we have a club member friend who has had one for about 10 years and is happy with it.
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Old 01-21-2014, 12:54 PM   #3
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I use a Carlisle Hydrastar 1600....
Love it!
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Old 01-21-2014, 01:16 PM   #4
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I think, when mine goes I'll use Dexter...unless..
I decide to go ABS. In which case, I'll go with the DriecLink that matches my brake controller.
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Old 01-22-2014, 08:04 PM   #5
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Hickory,

I installed the Carlisle 1600, it works for me. Can't say which is best. Was your trailer subject to the hose recall? Taken care of? My .02$ single biggest thing is making sure the system is bled and IMHO the system as issued is very capable of looking like its bled but can still have trapped air in the inboard caliper due to hose config and fluid flow path. Further info avail if you wish.

Gary
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Old 05-12-2014, 07:46 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCinSC2 View Post
Hickory,

I installed the Carlisle 1600, it works for me. Can't say which is best. Was your trailer subject to the hose recall? Taken care of? My .02$ single biggest thing is making sure the system is bled and IMHO the system as issued is very capable of looking like its bled but can still have trapped air in the inboard caliper due to hose config and fluid flow path. Further info avail if you wish.

Gary
While bleeding, and rebleeding this system, I noticed the caliper not hooked to the line does not have a bleed valve, and so can quite easily have air trapped in the top part of it.

So could some one please tell me the procedure for bleeding these calipers to remove the air from that half of the caliper?
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Old 05-12-2014, 08:43 AM   #7
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Steve,

Do you have the original hose to caliper or the revised recall hose to caliper?

You're right as configured it makes an air trap on inboard caliper.

I made my own hose to line setup that uses a tube and nut that allows bleeding. Did a write up couple years back.

Any air bubble in system equals delay on brake application.

Gary
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Old 05-19-2014, 12:34 PM   #8
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If the caliper does not have a bleeder valve (man that is a poor design) then crack the brake hose going to the caliper to bleed out the air that is trapped. It will be a two person job and messy. After the bleeding is complete you will want to wash down all the components to get the bled out brake fluid off of every thing. Brake fluid will damage paint. Not very fast and left for a while will do damage to coated surfaces.

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Old 05-19-2014, 12:44 PM   #9
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Action,

If you are familiar with Corvette brakes, the calipers are like that with pistons on each side, but only the outside chamber has a bleed valve, so fluid goes in the top of inside chamber, and then out the bottom over to the outside chamber, the only one with a bleed valve which is at the top.

If you loosen the junction of the incoming hose, and bleed in the conventional manner, you are actually only bleeding the line.

The way I did it the last time (they've been bled three times including when the dealer did it), was I loosened the hose connection, and pried the outside portion of the caliper to force air and fluid out of the inner portion. That worked the best, but I suspect by the slight delay I have that there is still some air in the system.
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Old 05-19-2014, 01:02 PM   #10
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2012 Dodge Ram 2500HD factory brake controller is incompatible with the Titam BrakeRite II SD system we installed. Going with a DirecLink NE brake controller and bypass Dodge unit. Installation is hopefully tomorrow.

Had erratic application with variable pump startup time and virtually no ability to control amount of brake pressure.

Titan rep said only the original BrakeRite EHB system is compatible with factory installed brake controllers. Vendor failed to check our application before the sale.
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Old 05-19-2014, 02:58 PM   #11
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Thanks Steve. I am not familar with Corvette brakes however it sound like a 4 piston caliper system. I have a vintage Lincoln and Mercury that both have a 4 piston caliper. The bleeder screw is on the inside and I believe the recommended bleeding proceedure for the caliper is off the vehicle. Then bleed the brake system via the caliper brake bleeder screw which handles the braking system and one side of the caliper.

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Old 05-22-2014, 11:51 AM   #12
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This is what we did to cure the issues with the 2012 Dodge 2500HD factory brake controller. We bypassed the factory controller and installed a Tuson DirecLink NE brake controller that is upgradable to an ABS disc brake system from our current disc brake system.

1. A direct #10 wire from the truck battery positive through a 30 amp auto reset circuit breaker to the positive pin in the seven way receptacle in the back of the truck.

2. A direct #10 wire from the truck battery negative to the negative pin in the seven way receptacle in the back of the truck.

3. A direct #10 wire from the blue lead of the DirecLink 4 wire harness to the trailer brake pin in the in the seven way receptacle in the back of the truck.

4. Took the black and white wires of the DirecLink 4 wire harness directly to the truck battery terminals (they were long enough to reach without splicing) using a 30 amp auto reset circuit breaker as recommended on the positive lead.

5. Took the red lead of the DirecLink 4 wire harness directly to the truck brake light switch on the energized when the pedal is pressed side.

Connected the wires to the DirecLink controller in the order described in the instructions.

Turned on the the truck and hit the brake to awaken the DirecLink and it found the truck. No Dodge error code.

Cleaned up the loose wires and reinstalled the lower dash and took truck out to trailer and connected the seven wire plug from the trailer. No Dodge error codes thrown and brakes worked like they are supposed to do.

The erratic disc brake operation issue is cured!
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