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Old 05-28-2016, 01:50 PM   #21
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Choose door #4 . . .

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Originally Posted by DDickey View Post
Andy with Inland RV said that new backing plates would work with old hubs if you have the old hubs machined. Evidently the old backing plates are slightly offset towards the center of the trailer but the new ones are not, so the old hubs would rub on the new backing plates. There's a lip on the back of the old hub, and I'm guessing that if that lip is machined off the setup would work - but that's just a guess at this point.
DDickey:

With all due respect to Andy, unless he gives you an engineering drawing with all the applicable measurements for "machining" the Hadco hubs, I would avoid that option. Moreover, unless your machinist has successfully performed this exact same conversion before and has, and will give you, a proven list of all the correct bearings and seals to use after machining, having now spent a few hundred dollars in machine shop costs you might end up with incompatible parts that don't work together.

And after the machining has been done, you can no longer go back to options 1 and 2 (rebuilding the 60 year old Hadco axle) because you have altered the original Hadco hubs so they no longer fit. Having tried option #3, if you fail you now have a pile of incompatible, useless and costly but worthless axle parts.

IMHO, in the long run you will be better off following option 4, buying a brand new axle (I'd used a numerically lower drop like 2" or maybe even a straight axle to give your Airstream additional ground clearance) because you will now have all new brake parts that should either remain in production or have readily and widely available replacement parts for the next few decades. That alone is worth quite a bit.

The Hadco axle is 70 years old, and although perhaps still strong and functional, its weakness is the lack of readily available replacement and service parts for rebuilding it to new condition. Modifying it will, IMHO, render it junk unless you are totally successful, then fully document the conversion work and all the new service and replacement parts, and then finally keep that now-critical documentation with your Airstream for the balance of its life. That's asking a lot in the real world.

Take a very close look again at the quite different spindle profiles of the axle ends posted by Markdoane in post #16. [I believe the axle stubs in the lower photo are in opposite order -- Hadco on left and new axle on right -- from the complete axles in the upper photo -- new axle on left and Hadco on right]. Do you and, far more importantly, your machinist, fully understand how the machined hubs will fit on the Hadco axle after they have been machined . . . and which bearings and seals will now fit and work properly with the machined hubs? If not, I suggest you avoid option #3 as a likely waste of money.

You say you are doing a "full Monte" on this '57 Custom Airstream. Given that level of investment, bite the bullet and buy a new axle for it. You will be happier with that option in the long run, rather than trying to keep your obsolete Hadco working from year to year.
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Old 05-28-2016, 03:45 PM   #22
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And this might help

http://www.hadcoengineering.com/PDF%...atalog2001.pdf

http://www.hadcoengineering.com/

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Old 05-28-2016, 04:40 PM   #23
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Thanks for the links!

Action:

Thank you for posting the links to the Hadco and its catalog. Without investigation, I had blindly assumed they were no longer in business. Its nice to see they are. Those links are great resource for obtaining Hadco axle parts. DDickey might be able to rebuild and new his original Hadco axle after all.
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Old 05-28-2016, 08:16 PM   #24
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I had wondered the same thing about Hadco. The catalog may not have the parts needed. And a phone call may yield some parts that are not in the catalog.

As I posted earlier I am kind of a cheap dude. I also like originality or restoration to the original. In DDickey's case it may not make much difference as I believe he is doing a complete tear down.

However it is still nice to know a company that started before several major economic events is still manufacturing their product.

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Old 06-01-2016, 04:17 PM   #25
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All That Fretting for Nothing

So I went to the local trailer shop (Magnum Custom Trailers - really good guys) and they let me borrow a backing plate to try. It fits perfectly, no need to machine or otherwise customize any other part. The only difference is the original backing plate has studs and the new one has hole, so I'll use 3/8" x 1" grade 3 fine-thread bolts with lock nuts. I'm going to repack the bearings, replace the seals and paint the hubs with black caliper paint. I feel bad for not buying from Andy at Inland RV because he was the one who said it would work, but I thought I might get caught up shipping heavy parts back and forth. Don't worry Andy, there's lots more for me to buy before I'm done I'll find out who manufactures these backing plates and post that later this week since they bolt right on and work perfectly
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Old 06-01-2016, 05:00 PM   #26
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Very nice!!!!

There are several people that have the older leaf spring axles. This will be good news for them.

And I am sure it was great news for you!

When the time comes to replace the drum, are they going to have a drum that fits your spindle??
If you get that data as well it would serve others too.

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Old 06-01-2016, 05:54 PM   #27
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The drum is a different story

Quote:
Originally Posted by Action View Post
Very nice!!!!

There are several people that have the older leaf spring axles. This will be good news for them.

And I am sure it was great news for you!

When the time comes to replace the drum, are they going to have a drum that fits your spindle??
If you get that data as well it would serve others too.

>>>>>>>>>>>>Action
Unless Hadco still makes them I doubt I'll find a modern drum to fit. My drums have lots of meat left on them, but I'm going to go ahead and buy a pair from someone who has replaced their axle. That way when it comes time I'll have a pair to throw on there. Maybe I'll get 10 or 15 more years out of this setup?
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Old 07-12-2016, 07:38 PM   #28
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DDicky, what brakes did you end up getting. I was looking at Dexter 12" self adjusting from Airstream Supply or the Nev-R-Adjust Electric Brake from etrailer.
Tony
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Old 07-13-2016, 08:14 AM   #29
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After all of that...

...I ended up deciding to replace the axle and brakes. Once I got into it I realized I needed to resurface one of the drums, replace two bearings and one grease seal. Everything all together was going to cost $265. I found an axle supplier in Dallas who would build one complete for $309. A day trip up to Dallas eliminates the shipping, and it didn't seem smart to keep the existing axle to save $40.
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Old 07-13-2016, 08:59 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDickey View Post
...I ended up deciding to replace the axle and brakes. Once I got into it I realized I needed to resurface one of the drums, replace two bearings and one grease seal. Everything all together was going to cost $265. I found an axle supplier in Dallas who would build one complete for $309. A day trip up to Dallas eliminates the shipping, and it didn't seem smart to keep the existing axle to save $40.
Exactly the process and thinking that I went through. Now parts are available while on the road!
Another good thing is that my trailer came up 2" since the new axle is not a drop axle.
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Old 07-13-2016, 11:07 AM   #31
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Some of the old axle parts you now have may be of value to some one that has that vintage of a trailer.

Unless you have scrapped them you might consider that some one else may want to buy those from you.

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Old 07-14-2016, 07:59 AM   #32
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I have a complete axle with the old hydraulic brakes if anyone is interested. Spindles look good but I wouldn't trust the brakes simply because of age
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Old 07-14-2016, 08:01 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDickey View Post
Unless Hadco still makes them I doubt I'll find a modern drum to fit. My drums have lots of meat left on them, but I'm going to go ahead and buy a pair from someone who has replaced their axle. That way when it comes time I'll have a pair to throw on there. Maybe I'll get 10 or 15 more years out of this setup?

You might want to follow the link in post #22.

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Old 07-14-2016, 08:15 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDickey View Post
...I ended up deciding to replace the axle and brakes. Once I got into it I realized I needed to resurface one of the drums, replace two bearings and one grease seal. Everything all together was going to cost $265. I found an axle supplier in Dallas who would build one complete for $309. A day trip up to Dallas eliminates the shipping, and it didn't seem smart to keep the existing axle to save $40.
Yeah, that's hard to beat and a great price

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Old 07-14-2016, 12:15 PM   #35
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If you're in a Dallas area

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Originally Posted by Trons4u View Post
Yeah, that's hard to beat and a great price

Thanks
https://www.trailerpart.com/c-1249-3...ler-axles.aspx
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Old 07-14-2016, 12:16 PM   #36
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Parts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Action View Post
Some of the old axle parts you now have may be of value to some one that has that vintage of a trailer.

Unless you have scrapped them you might consider that some one else may want to buy those from you.

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Hey Action, I'm going to keep all the parts to sell to those who want to rebuild theirs
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Old 07-14-2016, 02:50 PM   #37
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Some one will really thank you.

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Old 06-17-2019, 06:50 PM   #38
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Hello, Iím in the same place you were in a few years ago regarding replacing or fixing original hadco 412N axle. I read where you eventually learned that new backing plates did work on the old hubs without a machinist having to do a thing. I recently put on new backing plates with electric brakes on my old Hadco axle. I havenít had it on the road, yet. Question. Would it be obvious if my new backing plates didnít work with my old hubs? My new ones seem to line up fine in the new hub but I donít want to be missing something obvious. Are you still running the old axle? Thank for your time. Also, did you have z rings that(sleeve) that was used on your spindle in order for the grease seal to fit correctly?
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Old 08-10-2019, 03:56 PM   #39
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W/out reading this entire thread - measure the brake shoes. Go to www.etrailers.com to see if they have your size.
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