TT up on blocks to save tires?

[tetstream]

I'm new to the travel trailer scene.... and lovin' it. But we don't use our trailer all that much yet. I wonder about the tires, just sitting there with the whole trailer weight on them. ( I do have them covered ).

From the Rubber Manufacturer's Association website:

"When recreational vehicles are out of service for long periods of time, they should be put on blocks. Place the blocks under the axles so that tires bear no load during the storage period. Also ensure that the tire/wheel assemblies are protected from direct sunlight. Because inflation pressure will fluctuate with surrounding temperatures, a slight, gradual air loss will typically occur over extended periods. Be sure to inflate the tires, including the spare, to operating pressure before returning to service."

I looked thru my Airstream manual but saw nothing about storage.

What do you guys do?

If you block your TT, when, that is, if it's out of service for a month? 3 months? ??

Where do you block it? I'm reluctant to block directly under the axle housing for fear of deforming it.

I'd sure like to hear from some of you on this. TIA.

[azflycaster]

The best thing you can do is use your trailer!
That being said, many members (not me) store their trailer during the winter months. I doubt that many of them jack the trailer for the months they are sitting idle. You do not want to jack your trailer at the axels. The axel will bend and cause an alignment problem.

I get out with mine about once a month. When it is not in use I just park it. I check the tire pressure before every trip and before I move it to the RV storage area (covered).

[thecatsandi]

I would not block your airstream. It has different axles than most TTs. If anything I would slight over inflate the tires to reduce flat spots.

[Buttercup]

Actually, I read somewhere that jacking at the proper points, of course, will help the tortion axles to stay flexible and supple. This is not the case for the regular spring axles. This is only needed if stored for long periods of time without movement.

[87MH]

Originally Posted by tetstream

From the Rubber Manufacturer's Association website:

"When recreational vehicles are out of service for long periods of time, they should be put on blocks. Place the blocks under the axles so that tires bear no load during the storage period. Also ensure that the tire/wheel assemblies are protected from direct sunlight. Because inflation pressure will fluctuate with surrounding temperatures, a slight, gradual air loss will typically occur over extended periods. Be sure to inflate the tires, including the spare, to operating pressure before returning to service."

Absolutely, the best thing you can do to ensure the maximum longetivity of the spring action on a rubber torsion axle is to unload it (put the frame on blocks) during periods of inactivity. Travel trailers, unlike most other types of trailers (ie horse or utility) are loaded to near 100% almost all of the time - and almost all of the time the trailers are sitting motionless.

The "spring" rubber is under compression when weight is on the trailer, and ALL rubber will take a "set" after a period of time. Removing the compression load will allow the rubber to retain the designed operational characteristics for a much longer time compared to being loaded to the almost maximum load during storage.

When I was researching axles for my '78 I talked to no less than 3 engineers from separate companies and the all agreed that any rubber torsion axle is running on borrowered time after 15 years or so.
Airstream Forums - View Single Post - '78 31' Sovereign

When I put the new axles on the Sovereign I constructed a beam and jack receiver just inboard of the tires. The primary reason for the beam is to unload the torsion axles during periods of inactivity. The beams are welded to the flange mounts, so no weight is actually on the bottom of the axle tubes. The flange mounts transfer the weight of the trailer directly from the jacking beams to the trailer frame via the axle mounts. When installing the axles I moved the front axle 1/2 bolt hole to the front, and the rear axle 1/2 bolt hole to the rear, allowing for a decent amount of room between the wheels to easily use the bottle jacks. I also have a pair of 12 volt electric scissors jacks purchased to do the same job as the bottle jacks. I find the bottle jacks more convenient.

Airstream Forums - View Single Post - '78 31' Sovereign



Double click on the above pictures to enlarge.

Additonal pictures are available in the "Photos" section of the Forum

[tetstream]

87MH - very nice, sweet setup. I go with your conclusion and experience, and will block the trailer when not in use. Thanks.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by 87MH

Absolutely, the best thing you can do to ensure the maximum longetivity of the spring action on a rubber torsion axle is to unload it (put the frame on blocks) during periods of inactivity. Travel trailers, unlike most other types of trailers (ie horse or utility) are loaded to near 100% almost all of the time - and almost all of the time the trailers are sitting motionless.

The "spring" rubber is under compression when weight is on the trailer, and ALL rubber will take a "set" after a period of time. Removing the compression load will allow the rubber to retain the designed operational characteristics for a much longer time compared to being loaded to the almost maximum load during storage.

When I was researching axles for my '78 I talked to no less than 3 engineers from separate companies and the all agreed that any rubber torsion axle is running on borrowered time after 15 years or so.
Airstream Forums - View Single Post - '78 31' Sovereign

When I put the new axles on the Sovereign I constructed a beam and jack receiver just inboard of the tires. The primary reason for the beam is to unload the torsion axles during periods of inactivity. The beams are welded to the flange mounts, so no weight is actually on the bottom of the axle tubes. The flange mounts transfer the weight of the trailer directly from the jacking beams to the trailer frame via the axle mounts. When installing the axles I moved the front axle 1/2 bolt hole to the front, and the rear axle 1/2 bolt hole to the rear, allowing for a decent amount of room between the wheels to easily use the bottle jacks. I also have a pair of 12 volt electric scissors jacks purchased to do the same job as the bottle jacks. I find the bottle jacks more convenient.

Airstream Forums - View Single Post - '78 31' Sovereign



Double click on the above pictures to enlarge.

Additonal pictures are available in the "Photos" section of the Forum

Have always put our Streams on stands during our Infamous Buffalo Winters, Wheels and tires also get stored inside. Helps keep that fancy Alcoa aluminum shiny, and that Goodforayear rubber pliable.....Stream-on

[ALANSD]

So if the axles are 30 yrs old but there is still good ride height and the ride is still good...(I can leave a wooden paper towel rack on the sink, it barely moves after hundreds of miles). Why would I want to change mine? Or is that a sales pitch by the axle manufacturers?

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by ALANSD

So if the axles are 30 yrs old but there is still good ride height and the ride is still good...(I can leave a wooden paper towel rack on the sink, it barely moves after hundreds of miles). Why would I want to change mine? Or is that a sales pitch by the axle manufacturers?

Henschen axle from 1974 and back are prone to failure, especially the Bambi and Caravel models, because of the composition of the rubber rods.

Torsion axles really don't have a 'life" expectancy.

What can and does kill them, is simply a matter of "non-use."

Rubber must be exercised in order to keep it alive.

When a trailer that uses torsion axles, regardless of brand, sits for years at a time, then the rubber rods lose their resiliency and will harden.

There are two visual tests that a person can make.

1. If the torsion arm is parallel to the frame, when the trailer is empty, then the axle is done.

2. When one side of the trailer is lifted off the ground, the tire should have a drop of about 2 1/2 inches. If that drop is small, then the rubber has solidified, and the axle is done.

If the torsion arms are parallel to the frame, when the trailer is loaded for travel, then they still have some life left, but that is telling you that the axle is not as good as it should be. Keeping a watchful eye on that parameter, will help you decide, in time, when the axle is totally finished.

I have personally seen Henschen axles that are 40 years old, that are still doing a good job. Not good as new, but certainly not in the replacement stage.

Inactivity, is the real killer, of a torsion axle.

We have replaced many axles on trailers that have been built since 2000. The cause, "without" exception? It was parked for a long time, without any attempt to remove some of the weight from the axle with jacks, and/or simply not towed for an extended period of time.

Torsion axles are, in a way, like the human body. No exercise means a short life.

Andy

[ALANSD]

When the axle is "done" what happens? It makes the ride harsh? The wheels fall off? Just wondering.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by ALANSD

When the axle is "done" what happens? It makes the ride harsh? The wheels fall off? Just wondering.

There are two situations when the axles are "done."

The first is when the rubber has given up and allows the trailer to settle closer to the ground. When towing, the trailer will bottom out, causing numerous damages.

The second is when the rubber solidifys and no longer acts as rubber should.
This also results in a very harsch ride for the trailer.

The test for the latter, is jack up one side of the trailer, The tire should drop about 3 inches or so. If not, then the rubber is gone.

Long term storage without use, can cause both of the above.

Rubber must be exercised to stay alive. If not, the it will give out and/or solidify.

Andy

[ALANSD]

Thanks, your knowledge as always is appreciated!! I will check mine for sure.