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Old 01-26-2007, 05:55 AM   #85
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Trailer Tires

I have seen old wheels on cars split on occasion (32PSI). They usually split where the center disc was welded to the rim.
It’s a roll of the dice, try it if you like. At least you will only be buying 3 wheels and tires instead of 5.
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Old 01-26-2007, 06:29 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beginner
I have seen old wheels on cars split on occasion (32PSI). They usually split where the center disc was welded to the rim.
Itís a roll of the dice, try it if you like. At least you will only be buying 3 wheels and tires instead of 5.
Beginner
What caused the failures on the ones you have seen.
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Old 01-26-2007, 10:30 AM   #87
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Trailer Tires

On the ones I have seen the rim crack where the center disc was either welded or riveted to it.
I never saw one explode but just began losing air. The worst one I have ever seen was cracked half way around. It went really fast. The driver said he heard a whoosh and the wheel pulled to the right. He was only doing 25 mph. It just gave way. He was lucky.
The wheel was a welded wheel.
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Old 02-05-2007, 06:32 PM   #88
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Argghhh.....

Quote:
We have what I presume are the original wheels on our 71. I've always trusted Inland Andy. Read his comments above about not going from load range C to D. The confusing part is my original owners manual says: "the recommended tire pressure if you use 6 ply tires is 45 psi and if you use 8 ply tires is 60 psi." It says nothing about changing the wheels...?
I posted the above earlier and got some good replies - thanks. But, I'm going to stir this pot one more time.

Checked with Maxxis on availability in Range C so I don't "split my rims". The only thing they have in C is Bias Ply. They also advised that going from C to D would not be a problem. Having read post after post on tires I am going with Maxxis one way or another. So, even given the above from my manual - I guess I'll have to pony up for new wheels also. (to be honest I still don't get it).

Anyway, does anyone have an idea what new wheels will cost. Are the lug patterns special to A/S or can I get them from any SOB dealer. Thanks...
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Old 02-05-2007, 06:54 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ganglin
Anyway, does anyone have an idea what new wheels will cost. Are the lug patterns special to A/S or can I get them from any SOB dealer. Thanks...

You can obtain the wheels from many sources.

But, they must be a minimum rating of 2600 pounds, each.

Andy
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Old 02-05-2007, 09:34 PM   #90
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I guess I don't get either . If the forces are so great as to split the rims when going from C rated tires to D rated tires , why would all the wheels be rated the same in the first place ???
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Old 02-06-2007, 12:15 AM   #91
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It appears that the stresses on the rim or wheel over a given period of time
would be the determining factor ,C range tires used for some time and the
loads exerted on the wheel flanges or bead area .Then going to a tire D that
runs alot more pressure and therefore exerts even more pressure to the rim .
Im likin it to work hardened steel ,worked with a certain pressure and tire
strength ,then loading it even more with more pressure .that pressure trying to force the wheel apart down the middle ,both sides forcing outward from the center of the wheel .the rim when new would be fine given the proper rated wheel and either tire .a D rated tire for example on a new wheel would
stress the rim within its strength tolerances ,going then to a C range tire
would down grade the wheel load ,lowering stresses applied to the rim ,lessening any tendency for failure .The rim when new would not have had any loading applied to it for any extended period of time ,hence ,no structural
problem should ever exist then with a D range tire installed on the wheel
during normal operation .Wheels ,steel trailer wheels are not expensive ,
so the cost is minimal for safetys sake ,after all is said and done .

Scott
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Old 03-09-2007, 05:36 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottanlily
It appears that the stresses on the rim or wheel over a given period of time
would be the determining factor ,C range tires used for some time and the
loads exerted on the wheel flanges or bead area .Then going to a tire D that
runs alot more pressure and therefore exerts even more pressure to the rim .
Im likin it to work hardened steel ,worked with a certain pressure and tire
strength ,then loading it even more with more pressure .that pressure trying to force the wheel apart down the middle ,both sides forcing outward from the center of the wheel .the rim when new would be fine given the proper rated wheel and either tire .a D rated tire for example on a new wheel would
stress the rim within its strength tolerances ,going then to a C range tire
would down grade the wheel load ,lowering stresses applied to the rim ,lessening any tendency for failure .The rim when new would not have had any loading applied to it for any extended period of time ,hence ,no structural
problem should ever exist then with a D range tire installed on the wheel
during normal operation .Wheels ,steel trailer wheels are not expensive ,
so the cost is minimal for safetys sake ,after all is said and done .

Scott
For what its worth; I had a new 1970 Dodge 1/2 ton van that I put 8 ply tires on the rear so it would cary more load. While coming around a corner with a load at about 15 MPH the first steel rim split and whooshhh we were grounded...This happened to both rear rims. The tires and rims were replaced under warranty but now I'll bet it was pure rim failure from the heavy 8 ply tires. Only about 3,000 miles on them. I sold the unit in '71. Just my 2 cents.
John
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Old 04-06-2007, 10:28 PM   #93
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I will be replacing the wheels and tires on my safari once the frame is repaired. I currently have LT tires on 15 inch rims, but they are very old indeed. I would like to drop down to 14 inch rims for the new wheels. Will this cause any isses with my trailer? Also, should I put special RV tires on, or can I place any 14" tire on the new rims?

Wheels can be seen here.

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Old 04-07-2007, 12:57 AM   #94
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hello soldiermedic ,

i would not downgrade your wheels and tires to 14" ,the larger 15" is required
to carry the load and has the strength needed to support and carry the
weight of your trailer and gear .consequently ,you may not find the proper load rating needed in a 14" tire and wheel .The wheels must be rated for 2600# each ,more important on a single axle trailer .I don't think you will
find a 6 lug 14" wheel anyway ,unless you have downgraded your axles or drums to 5 lug 10" brakes .I recommend to stay with the 15" wheels .You
also need to stick with proper tires ,(a whole debate of its own) but any
tire will not work ,no car tires .

Scott of scottanlily
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Old 04-07-2007, 08:46 AM   #95
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Trailer Tires

hello soldiermedic
On tire selection:
14 inch wheel:
1. If you go to a 14 inch tire you will probally loose ground clearance.
2. Selection for the weight range you need will probally not fit in up in the wheel well.
3. Under no circumstances go to a p metric tire. The soft sidewalls will enhanse sway(fishtail), if you can find any that will fit up into the wheel well.
4. Other travel trailer brands are having trouble with the ST 14 inch tire as well.
15 inch wheel:
Stay with a 15 inch tire at least.
There is a better selection, not very large, but a better selection than with 14 inch.
Recommend you stay with a speed rated (at least 95mph or better) LT tire. They will stand the heat of 65 MPH in the summer time on the Interstate without problems.
16 inch wheel:
If the LT tires on the trailer now are 700-15s and the ST225/75R15 will fit, you can go to a 16 inch wheel, 7 inches wide of the proper offset and backset.
These seem to be more robust tires.
The BG Goodrich Commercial T/A LT 225/75R16 is the same outside diameter as the 700-15 LRD and the same width as the ST225/75R15.
Load Range:
The failure mode on the ST tires (65 MPH tire) is caused by heat, not overloading, unless you consider the tire overloaded because it lost air all by itself going down the road between stops (less air pressure/less load capacity).
If load range D will carry your trailer or if load range D is the tire that came on the trailer, stay with that load range.
To go to a Load Range E and 80 psi will only beat up your trailer.
Tire Pressure Monitor System: (Cheap insurance)
Mine is the Pressure pro. I like it.
There are others.
My two cents worth.
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Old 04-07-2007, 10:02 AM   #96
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I have read several of the post, not all of them, but, I do have a question. We or I will say, I, Tammy, ordered the tires off ebay that the man advertises as Airstream Tires, Same as ours but had an E on them. We havent recieved them yet, so, from what I gather, we cant use these tires? So I'm out 260.00 I paid for them? Do I need to just return them as soon as they arrive and try to find C or D? Thanks for any advice. I wish I had seen this post before a I ordered them!
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Old 04-07-2007, 06:07 PM   #97
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Trailer Tires

According to Andy R. of Inland RV the 80 psi inflation of the load range E tires beats up the trailer too much.
In my mind, the problem with the ST tires is the speedrating of 65 MPH. Above 65 the tire generates too much heat and causes the rubber to let go and belt shifting occurs which begins the failing of the tire.
There are a lot of opinions out there on this subject.
Mine is not to run a tire at 100% of its rating and expect it to last.
You didn't say whether the tires were ST tires or LTs.
I went to the LTs to get the speed rating (99 MPH).
Will I ever cruse at 70 MPH, no. But I feel safe running at 63 mph now.
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Old 04-07-2007, 06:41 PM   #98
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So if I buy new 15 inch rims since the old 15s are in pretty bad shape, I can put any Light truck tire on it?

Steve
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