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Old 07-03-2015, 05:57 AM   #29
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Maxxis e rated st tire.

1984 Avion 30p 9.1 meter. 2006 Dodge 3500 cummins srw short bed crew cab.
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Old 07-03-2015, 06:12 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Tireman9 View Post
You may need to know more about tires than the salesman does.
This is very good advice.


Work is never done, so take time to play!
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Old 07-03-2015, 06:58 PM   #31
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I am beginning to see that the process for selecting the correct tire is bounded the sales people who have the perfect tire based upon size and color (much like a refrigerator) and the engineer that knows what it should be but cannot build it to those specs. Where are the chemists and physicists?
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Old 07-03-2015, 07:11 PM   #32
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I'm sure you'll excuse me if Carlisle isn't on my list of tires to use in the future. One was 3 years old, one was four years old, both were inflated to 60 PSI (10 over what AS recommends, 5 short of the max). That was a day I don't want to repeat, and a rough start to our road trip. (I've already discussed this with Tireman, so no need to rehash it for me.)

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Old 07-03-2015, 07:16 PM   #33
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Curious, what did the T man have to say?
1984 Avion 30p 9.1 meter. 2006 Dodge 3500 cummins srw short bed crew cab.
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Old 07-03-2015, 07:20 PM   #34
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Which Carlisle tires were those?
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Old 07-04-2015, 05:15 AM   #35
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Look like radial trail rh....
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Old 07-04-2015, 05:17 AM   #36
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Was that an e rated Carlisle?
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Old 07-04-2015, 06:11 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by TheCabin View Post
Is there a tire that comes close to being ideal? One that would support at least 30% greater load than an AS rating, hold air for a long time, have low cord shear (single steel cord?) and work on 15" wheels....
They're testing it now, should be released as soon as they find it!
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Old 07-04-2015, 08:31 AM   #38
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I personally have never used a Carlisle, but I have friends that will never use them again due to premature failures. Also bad reports from ATV buddies that have had bad luck with Carlisle's. For me, no ST's on my AS ever again.
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Old 07-04-2015, 08:45 AM   #39
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I have a single axle "rail" type large motorcycle (GoldWing at 960 pounds) trailer. The GYM ST tires delaminated multiple times over the years even though the tires were covered. Now using 13" Michelin car tires as the trailer and bike together weigh less than 1500 pounds.
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Old 07-04-2015, 09:03 AM   #40
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Tire Inspection

A general comment on tire inspection and how it may be able to prevent RV damage due to tire failure if done properly.

There are three basic types of tire failures.

- The least likely is a sudden large impact with some object in the road. This is the least likely and is actually difficult to do. By this I mean to have a tire that is OK with no damage having been done due to excess heat, high load, low inflation or improper repair. It could even be a new tire. You drive over something like a Railroad spike or into a foot deep pot hole or over a 10" chunk of scrap steel that fell off a truck. It has to be large and you have to hit is just right for the tire to suffer immediate failure. I know from personal experience (doing a special test project of tire "blowout") that even driving over a piece of 2" pipe sharpened at one end and standing 2" up in the road with sharp end up doesn't always cut through the steel belts of a tire. Yes you might run over something that cuts the tire but you would see it in the road and hear it hit but most of the time the air loss is not immediate. The good news about this type of failure is that it has a very low probability of happening. I would guess that fewer the 5% and maybe less than 2% of RV tire failures are of this type.

- Next is the belt separation. This is when the tire tread and belts come off the body of the tire. This is usually the result of tire aging and long term cumulative heat related damage that reduces the flexibility of the rubber to the point that rather than bending the rubber develops microscopic crack which do not heal themselves but will grow. Excess heat and tire aging can come from many sources. Even parking in direct sunlight with "tire protectant" spray does not lower the temperature of the tire. Excess heat can accelerate the aging or the tire rubber properties and drastically reduce the tire life. I would expect that if properly diagnosed this type of failure occurs 25 to 40% of the time. The good news is that with proper and frequent tire inspection this can be discovered and the tire replaced before it comes apart enough to cause damage to the RV. I did a blog post just on this topic "How do I inspect my tires" back in Aug 12 2014. You can Google the phrase and find a number of web pages on the topic but many simply are telling you to look at tread depth but this is not sufficient if you want to do a complete and competent inspection. My link included a YouTube video showing the inspection of a tire with belt detachment that has not come apart and the result of the "tire autopsy" I was able to perform.

- Finally there is what is commonly, and incorrectly, called a "Blowout". This is really a failure of the tire sidewall due to excessive flexing from running with significantly under-inflated ( probably below 50% of the inflation needed to carry the load. For Polyester tires (mainly ST and LT type) This heat due to flexing can be enough to reduce the strength by half and in extreme cases even melt the cord. For Steel body tires the bending of the steel can result in a fatigue failure similar to bending a steel paper clip till it breaks. This type of failure may be 60 to 80% of the failures on RVs. The good news is that if you run a TPMS you will get a warning of the air leak and hopefully you will not ignore the warning as too many do with other warning indicators on their dash, and take appropriate action which is to stop and pull over as soon as safely possible. Amazingly some people, even when verbally warned that they have a tire that is significantly under-inflated simply choose to continue to drive off. This has happened to me a number of times. As the saying goes "You can lead a horse to water but you can't make them drink".
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Old 07-04-2015, 10:16 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by Tireman9 View Post
As the saying goes "You can lead a horse to water but you can't make them drink".

Tireman9, Awesome blog! Just want to say thank you.

I find it amusing to read some of the replies here on the AS forums.
Even after being introduced to the scientific analysis of years of research.
People will formulate there own idea of what is correct, based on rumor, innuendo and superstition, regardless of the facts or evidence of the contrary.

The world is not flat, just your tire!

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Old 07-04-2015, 12:52 PM   #42
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I often post in this forum. I'm a trailer tire user and researcher. Been doing it for the better part of 10 years. I'm a stickler when it comes to safety and tire industry standards. (Comes from my 40 years as an aircraft mechanic).

I know this doesn't fit well here but it's about some he said she said stuff.

The steel cased LT235/85R16G tires developed and marketed for trailer service only have a single rim width size, 6 and a half inches. That's their manufacturer's recommendations.

The owners upgrading to the larger steel cased tire will normally use their existing 6" wide rims if they have the load capacity/psi rating for the upgrade. Their words of experience are normally "they work just great on my old rims". So sometimes even though it's not recommended or even safe that kind of word is passed and accepted.


On edit: A tire manufacturer's rim recommendations can be trumped by a vehicle manufacturer. It's fair to mention that but it's normally done with high speed specialty rims and tires and the safety responsibility shifts to the vehicle manufacturer.

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