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Old 08-19-2007, 11:48 PM   #29
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[quote=Safari-Rick]For the best of me, I just can't imagine why anyone would use a jack when you have the plastic blocks or even blocks of wood. ]

Uh...I agree...unless it's a single-axel AS...like our Bambi. We have no choice but to use a jack! And frankly, I am not looking forward to that possibility...but if it comes, it comes...I've changed flats on cars before, so I guess I can do this!

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Old 08-21-2007, 12:02 PM   #30
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well...we did it

Thanks guys!
We changed our first AS trailer tire.
Because of your suggestions and comments is was soooooo easy to do.
Rolling onto the good tire instead of jacking the trailer was the best suggestion and using a click torque wrench took to guessing out of the equation when tightening the lug nuts.
Now we're good to go for our camp out this weekend. We're going to Marble Quarry.
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Old 08-21-2007, 02:48 PM   #31
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Your right, TBrich.

Sorry, I forgot there are some "single" guys out there!.
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Old 08-21-2007, 02:55 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millvalleyca
The AS manual states
Torque aluminum wheels to 110 ft.lbs. and sttel to 95 ft.lbs
Is it wise to follow these weights?...
It is imperative that you do not exceed the top number in the torque range on the wheels. You can over stress your lug post and cause them to break or snap while traveling down the road from being stretched. If you hear them bark or squeak, you have gone too far. That is why it is soooo important to hand torque your lug nuts. Don't ever let a tire/wheel shop torque them with an air driver. They are too in accurate to stop at the right tightness. And don't ever let the mechanic jump on the tire wrench to get them tightened. It is also vital that you check the torque on your lug nuts before you hit the road each time...each leg of the trip, not just before you leave home for a trip.

Mine have never loosened but they can and some on this board have had experience with them coming loose.
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Old 08-21-2007, 03:17 PM   #33
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Thanks Minnie's Mate
AS manual suggests 110 with a range of 110-120 alum and 95 steel
I have it at 110. As soon as I heard the distinct "rachet noise" (click?) I stopped tightening. The wrench I bought has distinct settings from stop to 250 in ft lbs.
Overlander63 suggested 95-105
Should I leave it or reduce the torque?
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Old 08-21-2007, 03:21 PM   #34
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110 is the standard number for aluminum. To much higher will over stress the studs.
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Old 08-21-2007, 04:07 PM   #35
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Your right, TBrich.

Sorry, I forgot there are some "single" guys out there!.
No harm, Safari-Rick...

If tightening by hand, how do I know when the torque is right and the lug is tight enough?

After reading through all this business about correct torquing, etc...I am feeling like I should go out and buy a torque wench and toss the old standby cross lug wrench I have? Yes?

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Old 08-21-2007, 04:14 PM   #36
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TB,
that would be a yes...but keep the cross lug for loosening and beginning to tighten.
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Old 08-21-2007, 04:15 PM   #37
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Hey TB
That was my biggest "fear in changing my own tires". Will I put the lugs back on tight enough or maybe even too tight? With my new torque wrench I don't have to guess. You stop tightening when you hear the click. Assuming the wrench is accurate, all of the lugs should be tight and "well balanced" (all tightened at the same torque)
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Old 08-21-2007, 04:19 PM   #38
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Ps

Also, after reading through all this and also other threads about jack points, and where to best place a jack, I went out and put my head under the Bambi...sure enough, the jack points are labeled...one on each side about 1/2 way back between the axle and the rear bumper, but there's no plate riveted to the mainframe rail that I can see...I can tell where the rail is, however... The location of the jack point is sort of awkward on the street side...it's right behind the sewer outlet! I guess I could still get a jack in there, though...so that's where I'll put the jack in the event I have to do this.

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Old 08-21-2007, 06:48 PM   #39
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Just in case we have not emphasized torque...my previous SOB made its finaly tow from Suisun CA to Austin TX at the hands of my friend while my son and I travelled a day behind in a Penski with my old boat in tow. SOmehow my instructions to check the torque frequently got translated to look on occasion to see if the wheels were still attached. On IH35 the wheel parted company woith the trailer and proceeded through the bath room. Being a single axel the trailer frame became a skid plate. Suffice to say that SOB was off the road. It was a box, no real value but it was also our temporary quarters.
ALways check the lugs!!!
rob n terry
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Old 08-21-2007, 07:25 PM   #40
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Thanks for everyone's sage advice!

TB
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Old 08-21-2007, 08:49 PM   #41
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spare tire question

Hi from Ga... Boy, times have changed haven't they ? My Dad made me do a complete and correct tire change Before I drove off in the family Buick the 1st time. I did the same thing for my son a couple of years ago. BTW, the moron who changed the tire on my RV in the middle of New Mexico was knowledgeable,curteous, and careful and I was very glad to see him drive up. Bought him lunch after. Regards, Craig
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Old 08-21-2007, 09:03 PM   #42
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you should tighten in a star pattern. Start with any lug nut of your choosing. go the the one across from that. rotate clockwise one stud then go to the one across. repeat. This is done to keep the rotor or drum from warping. tighening in order will build literally push a pressure wave around until it hits the first stud tightened. it will warp at that point.
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