spare tire question

[Safari-Rick]

For the best of me, I just can't imagine why anyone would use a jack when you have the plastic blocks or even blocks of wood. It's extremely rare that you would have two flats on one side but I suppose it does happen. And even so, you can only change one tire at a time.

At the California Streamers Summer Rally I had a slow "valve" leak on the way up to the Rally which I used the spare. With my portable air compressor I was able to ensure that the proper pressure was on the spare. Had a total blowout on the way back. ( see picture of tire)


Had to find a repair facility on a Sunday. Thank goodness for Sears Tire stores that are normally open on Sundays.

It definitely pays to check the air in your spare at least quarterly.
Of course, you'll have to put up with the embarrassment of the ugly steel rim on the AS.

I now consider myself an experienced AS tire changer.
What I do recommend as I mentioned earlier is a good mini air compressor with a long enough hose to put air in your tires.

Anyway, that's my 2 cents worth.

R/
Safari-Rick

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by millvalleyca

thanks Moosetags
questions/answers sure lead to more questions.
which torque wrench to buy? Kragens 45.00 - Sears (up to) hundreds of dollars!!
How many pounds of torque are we talking about?

An inexpensinve "click-type" torque wrench is sufficient. I found one at Dollar General for $20, don't think I would go that cheap. $50 or so would be about right, wheel torque is 95-105.

[Beginner]

Actually, having worked in a calibration lab for a while the Click type torque wrench is the most inaccurate because of dismal repeatability.
The most consistantly accurate, and does not require calibration is the old simple deflecting beam (long pointer on a scale).
Beginner

[zamboni]

reeeeeallllly?

[Beginner]

Yea
The old Cheap ones, as long as the pointer isn't draging.
Beginner

[millvalleyca]

Originally Posted by overlander63

An inexpensinve "click-type" torque wrench is sufficient. I found one at Dollar General for $20, don't think I would go that cheap. $50 or so would be about right, wheel torque is 95-105.

Thanks overlander63
I just bought a torque wrench from Sears....109.00!
The AS manual states
Torque aluminum wheels to 110 ft.lbs. and sttel to 95 ft.lbs
Is it wise to follow these weights?

We also got the tire off the AS using the suggested method....worked great!
The tire has to be replaced. Two nails with one too close to the side to fix.
The tire had to be ordered and will be ready on Monday.

The trailer sits with only three wheels (good wheel still propped up)
Is it ok to leave it like this until we pick up the new tire?

Thanks!
Dennis

[razorback]

Also after changing a tire, remember to re-check the torque on lug nuts down the road about 50 miles, give or take. I always do this for the peace of mind. (and the factory always recommends it)

[millvalleyca]

thanks razorback for the info

[TBRich]

[quote=Safari-Rick]For the best of me, I just can't imagine why anyone would use a jack when you have the plastic blocks or even blocks of wood. ]

Uh...I agree...unless it's a single-axel AS...like our Bambi. We have no choice but to use a jack! And frankly, I am not looking forward to that possibility...but if it comes, it comes...I've changed flats on cars before, so I guess I can do this!

TB

[millvalleyca]

Thanks guys!
We changed our first AS trailer tire.
Because of your suggestions and comments is was soooooo easy to do.
Rolling onto the good tire instead of jacking the trailer was the best suggestion and using a click torque wrench took to guessing out of the equation when tightening the lug nuts.
Now we're good to go for our camp out this weekend. We're going to Marble Quarry.

[Safari-Rick]

Your right, TBrich.

Sorry, I forgot there are some "single" guys out there!.

[Minnie's Mate]

Originally Posted by millvalleyca

The AS manual states
Torque aluminum wheels to 110 ft.lbs. and sttel to 95 ft.lbs
Is it wise to follow these weights?...

It is imperative that you do not exceed the top number in the torque range on the wheels. You can over stress your lug post and cause them to break or snap while traveling down the road from being stretched. If you hear them bark or squeak, you have gone too far. That is why it is soooo important to hand torque your lug nuts. Don't ever let a tire/wheel shop torque them with an air driver. They are too in accurate to stop at the right tightness. And don't ever let the mechanic jump on the tire wrench to get them tightened. It is also vital that you check the torque on your lug nuts before you hit the road each time...each leg of the trip, not just before you leave home for a trip.

Mine have never loosened but they can and some on this board have had experience with them coming loose.

[millvalleyca]

Thanks Minnie's Mate
AS manual suggests 110 with a range of 110-120 alum and 95 steel
I have it at 110. As soon as I heard the distinct "rachet noise" (click?) I stopped tightening. The wrench I bought has distinct settings from stop to 250 in ft lbs.
Overlander63 suggested 95-105
Should I leave it or reduce the torque?

[thecatsandi]

110 is the standard number for aluminum. To much higher will over stress the studs.

[TBRich]

Originally Posted by Safari-Rick

Your right, TBrich.

Sorry, I forgot there are some "single" guys out there!.

No harm, Safari-Rick...

If tightening by hand, how do I know when the torque is right and the lug is tight enough?

After reading through all this business about correct torquing, etc...I am feeling like I should go out and buy a torque wench and toss the old standby cross lug wrench I have? Yes?

TB

[ScottW]

TB,
that would be a yes...but keep the cross lug for loosening and beginning to tighten.

[millvalleyca]

Hey TB
That was my biggest "fear in changing my own tires". Will I put the lugs back on tight enough or maybe even too tight? With my new torque wrench I don't have to guess. You stop tightening when you hear the click. Assuming the wrench is accurate, all of the lugs should be tight and "well balanced" (all tightened at the same torque)

[TBRich]

Also, after reading through all this and also other threads about jack points, and where to best place a jack, I went out and put my head under the Bambi...sure enough, the jack points are labeled...one on each side about 1/2 way back between the axle and the rear bumper, but there's no plate riveted to the mainframe rail that I can see...I can tell where the rail is, however... The location of the jack point is sort of awkward on the street side...it's right behind the sewer outlet! I guess I could still get a jack in there, though...so that's where I'll put the jack in the event I have to do this.

TB

[rmpray]

Just in case we have not emphasized torque...my previous SOB made its finaly tow from Suisun CA to Austin TX at the hands of my friend while my son and I travelled a day behind in a Penski with my old boat in tow. SOmehow my instructions to check the torque frequently got translated to look on occasion to see if the wheels were still attached. On IH35 the wheel parted company woith the trailer and proceeded through the bath room. Being a single axel the trailer frame became a skid plate. Suffice to say that SOB was off the road. It was a box, no real value but it was also our temporary quarters.
ALways check the lugs!!!
rob n terry

[TBRich]

Thanks for everyone's sage advice!

TB