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Old 07-02-2015, 01:05 PM   #29
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Curious. With the tpms do you adjust psi throughout the day or just leave it from the AM check. Traveling from Moab to Panguitch I saw a 10 psi gain once on the road. Dave
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Old 07-03-2015, 08:21 AM   #30
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This is a 2015 straight from Ohio. They are factory standard Marathons that recommend 50 psi. I will heed the advice and check cold and go. Thank you for your expertise. Dave
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Old 07-08-2015, 10:48 AM   #31
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I experience tread separation on two 15"-ST tires plus one blowout. After paying for the damage caused by the blowout, I switched to 16" wheels and Michelin LTX(MS2)225/75R16(E) tires. When I was running the ST tires, my TPMS would indicate that the tires were running quite warm - with the Michelin LTX tires, they run about 5 degrees higher than ambient (using a laser reader).
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Old 07-08-2015, 11:30 AM   #32
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Have not had a problem with tires while backing a tight turns but always disconnect my weight distributing bars before backing turns. I bent an L bracket once. Hitch company replaced it for free.
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Old 07-08-2015, 11:57 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by blkmagikca View Post
I experience tread separation on two 15"-ST tires plus one blowout. After paying for the damage caused by the blowout, I switched to 16" wheels and Michelin LTX(MS2)225/75R16(E) tires. When I was running the ST tires, my TPMS would indicate that the tires were running quite warm - with the Michelin LTX tires, they run about 5 degrees higher than ambient (using a laser reader).
Curious, what are your ambient conditions and where are you measuring on the tire assembly?

Here in the deep south the pavement in summer is scalding hot. The tire tread will measure 20 degrees hotter than the side wall. As pointed out by the experts, rubber is a very good insulator so these external measurements are not likely the same as internal temperature. But they certainly are worthwhile and are an indicator of what is going on. I think it is particularly worthwhile comparing tread to sidewall temperature. Rim temperature is also an important number to check since the thermal conductivity of the metal rim is much higher than that of the rubber. If you have aluminum rims they are even better at transferring heat than steel.

In no way am I trying to be critical of your choice for tires but temperature measurements are difficult to correlate at best. In addition the TPMS systems using a transmitter hanging on the tire stem are not accurate at all. The sensor is hanging out in breeze and that coupled with their poor temperature measuring accuracy, they simply become a general indicator.

I too use a infrared gun but try to measure rim, sidewall and tread to get an idea of what is going on.
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Old 07-08-2015, 02:49 PM   #34
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You are correct re wheel max.
In your case LR-D might have been a better investment as LR-E gives you almost nothing since it is the inflation that carries the load and that affects the Interply Shear.
Is there any benefit that the stiffer sidewall provides, comparing D to E, with respect to the bead staying attached in harsh turns? (as an example: when the trailer pivots the tires are sliding to the side while rolling with the turn at the same time)
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Old 07-08-2015, 10:23 PM   #35
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Alphonse, the ambient conditions when the ST tires failed were "temperate" - i.e., Ottawa, Ontario, Canada. The pavement was not scalding hot. In the second case, I didn't even know that there was tread separation. I drove to JC for service and the tech noticed it when he glanced under the trailer. When they took off the wheel and dismounted the tire, I was able to pull the rubber tread away and look down at all the shiny steel belts. The first time, there was bizarre tire wear on one wheel.

What I observed was that the thick side-walls of ST tires tend to heat more with the flexing - some brands are worse than others. The Westlakes that came with the trailer (PO purchased them) were really bad. I also had GYM's and Maxxis which I bought at JC. In short, from Oct/11 until July/14, I had the original (new at the time) Westlakes, but then needed 2 tires due to tread separation (was sold GYM's by JC) and then another 2 Maxxi's (also purchased at JC). I tow about 15,000 miles per year. I've had the Michelins now for 1 year and they hardly look worn.
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Old 07-09-2015, 10:02 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by blkmagikca View Post
I experience tread separation on two 15"-ST tires plus one blowout. After paying for the damage caused by the blowout, I switched to 16" wheels and Michelin LTX(MS2)225/75R16(E) tires. When I was running the ST tires, my TPMS would indicate that the tires were running quite warm - with the Michelin LTX tires, they run about 5 degrees higher than ambient (using a laser reader).
Yep Tread Separations are the result if the high Interply Shear forces generated on multi-axle trailers (you can Google the term to learn more).
Blowouts are the result of running a tire that is or has lost significant inflation air.

FYI External TPM and External IR gun temperatures will be 10 to 25F lower that the hot spots on a tire. Heat is a primary killer of tires and rubber is a good insulator so heat energy does not move from the hottest location to cooler very well.
Tires do not fail based on average temperature but based on the hottest location.
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Old 07-09-2015, 10:17 AM   #37
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Is there any benefit that the stiffer sidewall provides, comparing D to E, with respect to the bead staying attached in harsh turns? (as an example: when the trailer pivots the tires are sliding to the side while rolling with the turn at the same time)
Higher inflation pressure will help retain the tire on the wheel better. Tire lateral stiffness is the force you are talking about and this is controlled by inflation. In fact the regulatory test for bead retention is based on ever decreasing inflation pressure till the bead de-seats.

The concept of "stiffer" sidewall is hard to measure in itself as there is no standard test I am aware of where you could learn the meaningful numbers even if a tire company was willing to make such information public.

It could even be argued that under some situations a softer sidewall might transmit lower forces from the tread to the bead is the lateral direction so that might be better.
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Old 07-09-2015, 10:20 AM   #38
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Higher inflation pressure will help retain the tire on the wheel better. Tire lateral stiffness is the force you are talking about and this is controlled by inflation. In fact the regulatory test for bead retention is based on ever decreasing inflation pressure till the bead de-seats.

The concept of "stiffer" sidewall is hard to measure in itself as there is no standard test I am aware of where you could learn the meaningful numbers even if a tire company was willing to make such information public.

It could even be argued that under some situations a softer sidewall might transmit lower forces from the tread to the bead is the lateral direction so that might be better.
BINGO! I've never been able to buy into the "stiffer sidewall" theory of tire selection, let alone what kind is "stiffer" than the other.
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Old 07-09-2015, 09:37 PM   #39
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Go do some uturns on fresh asphalt at different pressures.
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Old 07-09-2015, 09:41 PM   #40
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Go do some uturns on fresh asphalt at different pressures.
I can tell you, backing into my driveway, there are huge tracks where the tires scrub off...
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