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Old 07-10-2014, 10:55 PM   #99
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Originally Posted by Siegmann View Post
I know this thread is about Lt tires, but I just have to chime in. I have owned 12 ST tires, all GYM. My first set I replaced after 7 years. OEM, load range C. Made in Canada. No problems. My second set I replaced after 7 years. Load range C. Made in China. No problem. My third set have been on 2 years. Load Range D. Made in China. Added centramatics for these (noticed open drawers; before, but not after). No problems. I frequently check pressures and usually inspect the tires after about 2hrs of driving. Generally drive at or under the speed limit. And probably the most important fact, I'm up north or in the mountains in the summer. I'm almost never on the road when the air temperatures exceed 80 degrees. Maybe that's my secret... or maybe I've been lucky!
No, Siegmann, not luck... sounds like you are doing all of the right things like frequently checking pressures, inspecting your tires, driving at or under the speed limit (65 mph for ST tires), etc.

I replaced our original Marathon tires with new Marathons that continue to work just fine (knock on wood!) and hopefully because I am doing the right things as noted in my AirForums' post #511, "The updates continue...", on "SilverGate's Safari is Home at Last!".
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Old 07-10-2014, 11:22 PM   #100
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So I read the first page, part of the 4th page and 7th page, quick question:

If I really want to keep my cool early 15" rims with baby moon caps what are my tire options?

Is there a 225/75r15 tire in an LT configuration in a decent load range of 2000 lb per tire or higher?

I REALLY do not want to have to change rims to go to 16" size.
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Old 07-11-2014, 06:19 AM   #101
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Is there a specific reason that you want to use 225/75 instead of 235/75R15 inch tires other than the ST tires don't come in a 235 size ?
There is a multitude of 235/75R15s available from virtually all manufactures, and even the P rated tires have a load rating over 2000 pounds .
I have used these tires for many years without ever having one fail for any reason , other than a picking up a nail. The trailer tows perfectly at highway speeds , 75 MPH in the Texas heat , and no problems at all with tight u-turns on pavement or anything else. They have no 65 MPH speed limitations and with the lower pressure they run , they deflect and absorb a lot more road imperfections that otherwise would be transferred to the trailer .
Last summer we drove from central Texas up through Canada , all over Alaska and back home down the Cassiar route with absolutely no problems whatsoever out of the 235/75R15 Cooper Trendsetter tires on the trailer .
Ran the same size tires on the 66 Airstream with the stock steel wheels with baby moons all over the Southwest United States for years with the same results.
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Old 07-11-2014, 06:20 AM   #102
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Originally Posted by MacDad View Post
So I read the first page, part of the 4th page and 7th page, quick question:

If I really want to keep my cool early 15" rims with baby moon caps what are my tire options?

Is there a 225/75r15 tire in an LT configuration in a decent load range of 2000 lb per tire or higher?

I REALLY do not want to have to change rims to go to 16" size.
The only option that I was ever able to find is the Yokohama 7R15. Not really a 225/75, but a radial replacement for the old 700X15 bias ply tire.

I searched almost everywhere for a 225/75X15 LT tire, and could not find one of any kind, let alone one that would have the needed weight capacity. That is when I decided to take the plunge to the 16" wheels and LT tires.
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Old 07-11-2014, 06:22 AM   #103
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We had the right rear go flat on our Safari near Pie Town , New Mexico about a month back . A nice young lady that had been following passed and signaled that there was a problem back there , we pulled over and she told us the tire had been down for several miles "towed perfectly with no apparent problems " the weight of the trailer had been carried by the right Front tire and wheel allowing the assembly to the rear of it to roll along without the wheel ever making contact with the road surface . This was a new first time on the road p rated 15 inch tire and did not come apart or do any damage whatsoever to the trailer, although it was run deflated long enough to inflict fatal damage to the outside sidewall of the tire , while the inside was perfectly fine . The tire that had been carrying the entire weight of the right side of the trailer was no warmer than the tires on the left side of the trailer .
Hats off to the young lady who stopped to tell us of the flat , she offered to help us put the spare on !
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Old 07-22-2014, 06:56 PM   #104
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Just talked with my friend Barry, who is on his way back here from Florida, and he had his second failure of a BF Goodrich Commercial TA tire today. Fortunately, he heard it making a thumping noise and changed it before it blew out, so very minimal damage to the trailer.

We bought those tires on the same day a little over 2 1/2 years ago, and I'm sure he has less miles on his than I had on mine. That makes three failures of the original eight tires we bought.

It's a sad thing when a $200 tire won't last three years. I find it disgusting.
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Old 07-22-2014, 07:23 PM   #105
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It's a sad thing when a $200 tire won't last three years. I find it disgusting.
I wholeheartedly agree with that!
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Old 07-22-2014, 07:34 PM   #106
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I was hoping to wait until after the summer travel season passed to start a new tire failure poll for 16-inch LT tires. That way, tire failures would have slowed down with cooler weather.

However, it sounds like there have been 3 tire failures on BFG Commercial TAs, to date.

Have there been any reports of this tire failing, in other threads?

Has anyone heard of failures with other 16-inch LT tire brands/models (e.g., Michelins)?
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Old 07-22-2014, 08:18 PM   #107
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Since "Phoenix" asked for this info.....all three of the 225/75E BFG's failed because of tread separation, all three were in service about 2 1/2 years, were always inflated to 75 PSI, and were driven at mostly 65 MPH, or less with occasional higher speeds up to 75 for short periods of time. Mine had about 30K miles on it, and my friend's had I'm guessing about 25K miles.
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Old 07-22-2014, 08:29 PM   #108
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Just read this and remembered the exposed wire in the tire of mine that failed had a brass color:

"When examining a separated tire one should look closely at the separation interface to determine whether there is any rusty wire, bare wire or brassy wire exposed. Corroded wire is usually evidence of moisture contamination during manufacturing. Bare wire is an indication of a manufacturing adhesion defect. Brassy wire is a strong indication of no adhesion. High resolution photographs should be taken of any exposed surfaces as quickly after the accident as possible to document any exposed wire conditions and the condition of the surface where the tire has delaminated."

Tire Tread Separations, Defects and Blowouts
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Old 07-22-2014, 08:48 PM   #109
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We had the right rear go flat on our Safari near Pie Town , New Mexico about a month back . A nice young lady that had been following passed and signaled that there was a problem back there , we pulled over and she told us the tire had been down for several miles "towed perfectly with no apparent problems " the weight of the trailer had been carried by the right Front tire and wheel allowing the assembly to the rear of it to roll along without the wheel ever making contact with the road surface . This was a new first time on the road p rated 15 inch tire and did not come apart or do any damage whatsoever to the trailer, although it was run deflated long enough to inflict fatal damage to the outside sidewall of the tire , while the inside was perfectly fine . The tire that had been carrying the entire weight of the right side of the trailer was no warmer than the tires on the left side of the trailer .
Hats off to the young lady who stopped to tell us of the flat , she offered to help us put the spare on !

Was this your Cooper tire?


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Old 07-23-2014, 05:17 AM   #110
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Yes KY , this was a new unused Cooper trendsetter I had bought to carry along in case we needed a replacement on our trip to Alaska last summer . Remembering all the flats and damaged tires we had encountered on that journey back in 1970 I wanted a bit more than one spare for back up . We have a small air compressor in the trailer , and I put tire tools and a bead breaker in the truck to be able to dismount , repair or replace tires out in the boonies . As it turned out , no flats or damage the entire trip .
Bought a spare aluminum wheel to match the ones on the AS last winter and used the spare cooper on it. Rotated it onto the trailer before heading for Arizona this spring . Poor little feller must have picked up a nail or something , :-(
and yes , all the tires on the trailer were cooper P235/75 R 15 s trendsetter .
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Old 07-23-2014, 06:05 AM   #111
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This thread gets more interesting all the time. Thanks for the info. I am still running my ten ply rated Duro ST tires, keeping my fingers crossed. Installer told me three years for trailer tires no matter what rating. Would not install p rated tires on trailer. Lt okay, but still recommended a shorter replacement time. I only have about five thousand miles on them now. Keep the info coming on the LT tires please. They are our best alternative. Jim
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Old 07-23-2014, 06:06 AM   #112
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Just read this and remembered the exposed wire in the tire of mine that failed had a brass color:.....
Steve,

Sorry, but the quote and link you provided have it wrong.

First, that is from a lawyer's website. I don't know of many lawyer's websites that get the science right on tire failures. I suspect that's because they deal in convincing people, not in dispensing truth.

Second, corrosion isn't the mechanism of failure. It's stress and the changing properties of the rubber matrix. The actual failure starts in the rubber just off the surface of the steel wire under the top belt near the edge of the belt. Computer studies have shown this to be the highest stressed area in the tire.

Besides, once the steel wire is exposed, it corrodes very quickly, regardless of whether or not it is the cause of the failure. Someone taking the websites description as gospel would draw the wrong conclusion about the mechanism of failure.

There are a number of ways to improve the situation:

From a tire manufacturer's point of view: Increasing the amount of rubber between the belts in this area, changing to a rubber that has improved properties, including resistance to oxidation, and adding cap plies which both reduce the amount of stress as well as provide a secondary "band-aid" to hold the tire together longer after the failure starts.

From an operator's point of view: Increased load carrying capacity by either using a larger tire or using more inflation pressure (which may mean changing to a higher Load Range).

The primary driver is heat. Increased temperature causes the rubber to age faster (according to the Arrhenius Rule). But there isn't much you can do about the ambient temperature, so tires operating in Phoenix are going to age faster than tires in Minneapolis.
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