New Owners: Make sure you torque Lugs...

[hohne]

Porky,

<I really am not an*l-retentive about this, but people asked...>

When mine were loose, they were below 75...they were a quarter to half turn away from 85...they were between snug and torqued. Your wrench at 75 would find the loose ones...

If you come to the Midwest Rally, I will check your wheels <grin>

If I did not already have a torque wrench, I would borrow one to get the lugs to a settling place, where they quit moving around on me. I am sure it has a lot to do with the ambient temperature going from zero to 60 in about three weeks, herabouts. Tire pressure is another headache...

But I only worry about the torque wrench because they are aluminum wheels, and they need to have consistent torque on the lugs...the only reason I have it is because of a cyclinder head on my older brother's truck several years ago...

I am a big, clumsy guy, and I know I would have no luck using a beam-type. I would slip off and scratch it...many would have no problems getting a consistent torque outta them...

I guess if you have something, use it, and if you buy one, get the clicky kind...

[DreamStream]

Not knowing anything about it (other than what I've learned from hohne) the click type sounds much easier for me. I usually have a hard time trying to do two things at once ... not having to look at the dial at the same time your're trying to pull hard slowly with one hand sounds like a big plus.

[davidz71]

Stephen,
I find myself lowering my head to check the reading on the scale to assure proper torque value. The clicky kind, as hohne refers to it, can be used while closing your eyes as you put a little grunt into it. If your hearing is gone, you can still feel the clicks through the handle.

[hohne]

...yeah, my shoulder pops about 70 ft-pounds, so I know I am getting close...

[Big Dee]

Just have to repeat the warning to check those lug nuts! I just checked them after about the first 80 miles and none of the lugs were at the right torque. So if you have a new coach- CHECK 'EM!

[frozen chosen]

In trying to install the hateful Trailer Keeper theft guard, I stripped one of the nuts. IT seems to be of a very soft metal. I wonder if this is by intent, so these threads strip rather than the bolt. If the bolt is stripped, what are my options? Can a bolt be easily replaced? or can I re-thread it? This brings up the jack-point issue, does it matter if the TT is hooked up to the tow vehicle or not when jacking it up? How stable is the trailer when jacked up from the jack point? Thanks for the help.

[85MH325]

Originally posted by frozen chosen
In trying to install the hateful Trailer Keeper theft guard, I stripped one of the nuts. IT seems to be of a very soft metal. I wonder if this is by intent, so these threads strip rather than the bolt. If the bolt is stripped, what are my options? Can a bolt be easily replaced? or can I re-thread it? This brings up the jack-point issue, does it matter if the TT is hooked up to the tow vehicle or not when jacking it up? How stable is the trailer when jacked up from the jack point? Thanks for the help.

Frozen... I don't know what a Trailer Keeper is... what nut did you strip, and what bolts are you talking about? Lug nuts and studs or something else altogether?

Regarding the jack point, the stability of the jack depends on how stable the ground under the trailer is to begin with. It will probably be more stable when hitched simply because you can set the brakes on the tow vehicle, and it's weight will hold the trailer in place and keep it from rolling rather than just the tongue jack and tire blocks.

If you use weight distribution, you might consider disconnecting the WD bars prior to jacking the trailer up to take the WD weight from the tow vehicle off the trailer frame. Your jack won't have as much weight to lift that way.

Roger

[Action]

Hope you are talking about lug nuts!

A lug nut is weaker metal than a lug bolt. And lug bolt can be changed. A hydrallic press is best to have when doing that operation. Can be done with a hammer and grunt power, not recommended. So based on that description it's not the easiest. NEVER RE-THREAD! Nuts or lugs.

Moral, ....pay attention when screwing nuts. If done in haste or incorrectly the net result will be painful.

Recommend always lifting a trailer with a jack with out the tow vehicle attached. The tow vehicle will limit the movement of the trailer. And always do this on a smooth hard surface away from traffic. ............. And you could drive your double axle trailer on blocks of wood. (2"X6") One tire on the blocks and the flat one hangs in the air. In this case leave the tow vechile attached to the trailer for stablilty.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

[dinoburb]

You folks using beam torque wrenches please have them checked at least once in the near future as they do go out of cal (lose accuracy) and you'll find they are 'handed'. In other words, they will be more accurate in one direction or the other! They are excellent tools, but as any tool they need attention during their useful life.

Retired Navy Aircraft maintenance officer and A-6E driver. BUFFs forever!

Take care,

[Silvertwinky]

I have aluminum wheels as some others do on here. I also use the click type torque wrench. The thing that I notice is that whenever I set it to the proper torque is that if I didn't stop there I could easily tighten it beyond what the torque calls for. I've trained myself to stop at the proper torque even though there is an urge to give it that extra tug. I figure they have a torque setting for a reason and I try and keep it set to that. I haven't had a wheel come loose. I've gotten used to this method now and I don't worry about it while traveling down the road.

[luckydc]

Not having used a torque wrench before, what is it I am looking for? Is it in the troque wrench isle at HD?

Getting the Bambi on Wednesday(!). Considering how much emphasis the owners manual places on checking those lugs, especially on the first trip (that would be coming home from the dealer), I appreciate any info. on identifing and selecting a torque wrench.

Thanks!

[Kistler]

I know very little about anything but I just got one from Toolsource.com It cost me $28.95, made by CTI (whoever they are?) and it clicks at the set torque lbs. It goes from 50 to 150, I think--it's down at my trailer or I'd go look.

It did my lug nuts at 85 lbs. ; by the way the lug nuts on my trailer wiggle. Someone told me they have non-removable caps so they look good......luckily I didn't try to remove them. the caps.

[Action]

I do not believe these are available @ HD. Auto parts stores will have them. In with the rest of the hand tools. Sears (Craftsman) will have them for sale too.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action