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Old 08-04-2013, 05:57 AM   #155
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Old 08-04-2013, 07:34 AM   #156
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Originally Posted by Krazyjohnny View Post

Then I turned up the economics on him... So if I were to purchase the ST tires that are limited to 65 mph for $500 bucks and come back in here every two years and purchase another set for the same money that is $1500 bucks in 6 years. Where as I can spend $800 for a better tire that is speed rated for highway speeds and get a better ride and performance from it for half over the same period? I told him the trailer doesn't know the difference does it?

He said I guess you are right. I just smiled he smiled and I went home.

Thanks again to everyone here for their input and experience.
This is the exact conclusion I came to. Having ST's fail in late year three and early year four meant more frequent changes. The economics alone justify the swap.

Jack
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Old 08-04-2013, 08:32 AM   #157
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This is the exact conclusion I came to. Having ST's fail in late year three and early year four meant more frequent changes. The economics alone justify the swap.

Jack
Which brings us full circle to the comment I made earlier in this or another tire thread, "the difference between price and value".
In my mind, the LT tire even though it's price is a little higher, is the better value since it lasts longer and potentially gives more reliable service.
Sadly the RV industry, like many industries that build something for public consumption, often want to simply buy from the low cost provider to at least in theory remain competitive in the marketplace, but to also help their own bottom line profit. In general, we consumers support this kind of activity very often. Witness all the cheap crap we buy at wally world that comes to us at a low price point, but has little value because it breaks or otherwise fails so soon.
There needs to be a median reached of "reasonable" in both price and value.
Ok.....off my early morning soapbox rant !
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Old 08-04-2013, 08:53 AM   #158
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And tires aren't getting any cheaper. When looking at a set of Maxxis E rated ST's, the price in 4 years had gone from $100 each to almost $150. Last summer I was able to get the 16" Michelin's from Discount Tire Direct for $202 each plus another $70 rebate from Michelin. And Discount sent them with free shipping and no local sales tax. The icing on the cake was checking the manufacturing date on the tires which was either 6 or 8 weeks earlier.

If you watch for those summer discounts you can get a great deal on the Michelins. They did the $70 rebate again this summer.

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Old 08-04-2013, 10:09 AM   #159
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Can I assume the 15X7JJ rim number on my tire placard is telling me the rim is 7" wide? And what does the JJ mean? Thanks
Yes 7 is rim width, which is a design standard not an exact physical measurement as we are dealing with curves and slopes.

JJ is the spec for the curvature of the flange portion of the rim like the "lip" on railroad wheels. There are a number of specs but for general purposes you can consider J and JJ essentially identical as far as being a consumer.


R1, R2, G variations give different "contours"
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Old 08-05-2013, 07:48 AM   #160
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Old 08-05-2013, 09:31 AM   #161
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Running less than Max. Pressure

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Don't knkow about the lawyers but as a tire engineer I can tell you there is sound scientific evidence and a reason for all owners tandem axle trailers to run whatever tires they have at the pressure on the tire that is associated with the max load capacity.
...
Does this mean that someone that substitutes a Load Range (LR) E tire for the same size LR D tire, but runs the LR E tire at less than the max. rated pressure to get a softer ride is potentially causing a failure problem on the LR E tire?
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Old 08-05-2013, 11:54 AM   #162
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FYI - am scheduled to have the 15s installed on my trailer Sat morning. Talked with the tire shop (Town Fair Tire in W. Springfield, MA) and explained why these and not STs. Used all the DOT info and they're good to go. Also confirmed with Airstream that doing so won't violate my warranty. If it would have, I would have waited until after the warranty period.

I did ask the guy (Mike) if he was familiar with this forum. He is. He did say that sometimes, some things get blown a bit out of proportion here :-) but we talked about the tires and my clearance light issue and while the Classic castings are on bak order, he started the process to get everything to my dealer to replace all the castings and however many lights are leaking.

Good day all the way around!!
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Old 08-05-2013, 06:49 PM   #163
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Does this mean that someone that substitutes a Load Range (LR) E tire for the same size LR D tire, but runs the LR E tire at less than the max. rated pressure to get a softer ride is potentially causing a failure problem on the LR E tire?
Running a LR-D and LR-E at the same pressure will yield the same ride in controlled Apples-Apples evaluations. Running them both at LR-D pressure will also probably result in the same tire life.

My recommendation to run the highest pressure based on tire and wheel rating on multi axle trailers is based on the science of reducing "inter-ply shear", which is the force trying to tear the tread & belts off the carcass.

So if the wheel can handle it, running the LR-E pressure will probably result in better life than running the LR-D pressure when the tire load is the same.
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Old 08-06-2013, 05:57 PM   #164
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This may be TOO geeky, but the DOT standard that's been referenced here: http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/rules-regul...px?reg=571.110 also suggests placards need to be created when vehicles are altered.

Since in my case, the 10% derated 15s will exceed the stated 7600# GVWR so no change needed there (GVWR remains 7600 due to the axles) but each tire will now be different and require a different PSI (50, not 65). Has anyone updated their placard and if so, how are you doing that in a weatherproof format?
Thanks!
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Old 08-07-2013, 05:42 AM   #165
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This may be TOO geeky, but the DOT standard that's been referenced here: Tire selection and rims and motor home/recreation vehicle trailer load carrying capacity information for motor vehicles with a GVWR of 4,536 kilograms (10,000 pounds) or less - Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration also suggests placards need to be created when vehicles are altered.

Since in my case, the 10% derated 15s will exceed the stated 7600# GVWR so no change needed there (GVWR remains 7600 due to the axles) but each tire will now be different and require a different PSI (50, not 65). Has anyone updated their placard and if so, how are you doing that in a weatherproof format?
Thanks!
2 thoughts:

First, the regulation cited is for new vehicle manufacturers and applicable components. It doesn't apply to individual owners.

Second, is that there are a number of ways to deal with the placard. I've seen stick-on labels like shipping labels, where the label is sealed inside a plastic cover.

I've also seen 3X5 cards printed up, laminated, then applied with clear tape or with self laminating plastic. Basically, all you need can be obtained from the local office supply.
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Old 08-07-2013, 10:26 AM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
This may be TOO geeky, but the DOT standard that's been referenced here: Tire selection and rims and motor home/recreation vehicle trailer load carrying capacity information for motor vehicles with a GVWR of 4,536 kilograms (10,000 pounds) or less - Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration also suggests placards need to be created when vehicles are altered.

Since in my case, the 10% derated 15s will exceed the stated 7600# GVWR so no change needed there (GVWR remains 7600 due to the axles) but each tire will now be different and require a different PSI (50, not 65). Has anyone updated their placard and if so, how are you doing that in a weatherproof format?
Thanks!
Lots of useful information about replacement tires, including plus sizing, in the manual referenced below. On subject you will find an example of an Auxiliary tire information label in appendix A - page A4.

http://www.tiresafety.com/images/Tir...t%20Manual.pdf

BA
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Old 08-07-2013, 01:50 PM   #167
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SteveSueMAc,

I think our trailers are very similar so we should both have similar results. I was just quoted $704 out the door from my local Discount Tire store. It is only $100 different than the Goodyear Marathons. I think that is a very small price to pay for the peace of mind. Besides 16" Load range E tires are rated at 3K lbs each. That is a very rigid sidewall and I have had issues with my exterior skin cracking around the front storage compartment supposedly due to harsh towing conditions.
Johnny,
I had that same problem with the exterior skin cracking around the front storage locker when towing with my F-350. I purchased an AirSafe hitch and have experienced no more probs.
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Old 08-10-2013, 02:06 PM   #168
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Lots of useful information about replacement tires, including plus sizing, in the manual referenced below. On subject you will find an example of an Auxiliary tire information label in appendix A - page A4.

http://www.tiresafety.com/images/Tir...t%20Manual.pdf

BA
Thanks BA! I'll set something like that up...good idea!


Ok - so - got the new sneakers today. I had made an adjustment to my hitch (ref. unofficial pp users guide thread) which made a HUGE difference in the towing experience. The porpoising that's been plaguing me since day 1 was nearly invisible - so for starters that was a good morning.

About 100' too late I realized I missed the entrance to Town Fair Tire and had to drive another 6 miles to get back there ...rrrrrr

Got there with my pre-coded internal TPMS sensors and they had my set of tires ready for me. Made in Feb-Mar this year in Canada.

They had me out in the parking lot to swap the tires which they did one at a time. The first one they used a jack on the spot underneath marked for that purpose. I didn't like how that was pushing the hitch forward on the rear axle of my truck and ended up making a ramp out of mutli-tiered "Legos" and that's how we did the remaining 7 tires.

Yes...7. Unfortunately, the red o-ring for the TPMS sensors wasn't adequate to prevent leaking which he didn't find out until tire #3. To the manager's credit, he talked with TST (the manufacturer) and used another gasket set he had on hand from another internal TPMS kit to make the seal and those worked perfectly. And yes, he had to redo those 3 tires - no extra charge (I tipped him nicely...).

Got on the road - I was afraid to drive with them for some reason. I had visions of going around a corner an having them blow off due to force meant for STs (you guys are all dancing around in my head!! :-) ). Well I got over that soon enough and took a 10 mile drive to the nearest CAT scales to double check the weight and grab lunch. Noticeably smoother ride and in conjunction with the corrected hitch position, I barely felt any porpoising even on that section I've crossed a dozen times that's like a washboard and gave me fits in the past.

So I'm feeling very good about the purchase so far. The tread looks (to my untrained eye) more substantial than that of the GYMs though I honestly don't know what I'm talking about. They are slightly wider than the GYMs and run at 50 psi max so I think that extra 15 lbs and thinner contact point is somewhat noticeable (though again, I could be psyching myself in to something that has no good reasoning behind it :-) ).

Got a LONG trip coming up and will keep you all posted.
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