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Old 07-23-2008, 07:04 PM   #29
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the o.p. is referenced to the max' ST tire model...

which is model m8008 in the usa.

the 225/75r/15 size is a clue

since then '168 isn't available in this size.

cheers
2air'
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Old 07-23-2008, 07:14 PM   #30
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Not quite but only because I caught it just in time. Was doing a general trailer inspection and one of the tires didn't look right - in fact it is a mess. Entire tread center is bulging out and there are several big chunks of rubber missing from the tread area. These are ST225 75R15 "E" load range tires. They are a bit over a year and a half old and have been run at 70 lbs. Mileage is between 15 and 20K. Messed up tire is on the road side. Don't know just what caused this as I've been paying pretty close attention to these tires. I think this is the same tire I got a screw in last July and it had to be plugged. Can't remember any serious holes or other road hazards I've run into lately. Or maybe it was just a defective tire. Or maybe there is some other reason I'm not aware of. So those of us who bought the stronger "E" rated Maxxis are not out of the woods as far as the tread separation problem goes. Sorry but I don't have any way of posting a picture - I'm probably the last person in the world who doesn't own a digital camera - or any camera for that matter.

You mean to say that a Maxxis tire had a problem? WOW.

Many dislike the Marathons, and easily say so.

Maybe it's time to find out the percentage of Maxxis failures, so others can talk them down too.

Bottom line. NO TIRE IS PERFECT.

Second bottom line. MOST TIRE FAILURES ARE CAUSED BY THE OWNER .

Andy
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Old 07-23-2008, 07:22 PM   #31
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I have the M8008 ST rated tires 8ply 2540 weight rating.

I had no issues with my Marathons, but the costs were pretty similar. I read several folks across many forums and rating guides pleased with their Maxxis tires and though any tire can have an issue, and even though by shear numbers Goodyear has the market, there were just too many things going on with the Marathons to not try another brand. I am very careful on loading, tire pressures, etc. So is Jack and his Marathon ripped apart as he was just in front of his house...that pretty much did it for me. Jack's story was all too common of a tale with Marathon users, except more folks had them fail while in transit. Jack was lucky his tore apart at less than 5mph.
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Old 07-24-2008, 08:58 AM   #32
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Like my Airstream, I like a smooth ride but I have to balance that against my dislike of shelling out money to replace almost new tires and changing tires by the side of the road in 100 degree heat.
I know my tire troubles with Marathons and other D rated ST tires are not my fault. I don't over load, drive at 65 mph or less, balance my tires and check tire pressures daily.
I promise Any or anyone else that they will have a blowout on their D rated ST tires on a multi day road trip in extreamely hot conditions. Quite simply, the tires are not suitable for their intended use. The Airstream is a safe 70 mph platform, shoddy tires are the only thing holding it back.
I accept the fact that E rated tires inflated to 80 lbs will give stiffer ride. The Airstream is well made but eventually something will break probably on the trip down the Baja in Mexico I am planning next year. Even with stock tires, wouldn't protect my Safari from damage. Any ideas as to the list of spares I should carry?
I don't claim Maxxis' and E rated tires are the final answer. If one of those blows, I am going to BF Goodrich tires with a three ply sidewall
I have reported my tire troubles to NTSA and I urge anyone having tire troubles to do the same.
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Old 07-24-2008, 09:50 AM   #33
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While we have a lot of factors involved in the Goodyear tire issue. Use and lack of use plays a big part in the longevity of tires. I think the more the tire rolls, short of road hazards and general wear, the better life you get. Non rolling tires do deteriorate and the tire rolling allows the compounds in the tire that enhance its life to be distributed through out.

In my case I'm very careful and the fact that the tire threw a hunk of tread disturbed me greatly. As I noted in my earlier posts my reasons for changing manufacturers and load range. Time will only tell whether this was a good move. To me, it's still early in the game and I'd be reluctant to tell anyone that Maxxis is the answer many of us are looking for. It has some positive points, but the jury is still out.

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Old 07-24-2008, 02:41 PM   #34
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The UE-168 is indeed available in a 225/75 R15. That was my initial choice, but when we put one beside the 700R15 Michelin that it was to replace, the 225 was too short. So I instead went with a 235/75.

You could get the 225 UE-168 in a Load Range E; the 235 only went up to D. So that's what I got.

From what I've been reading on here the past couple years, I think the ST rating in general isn't very good.

I rememer reading one fellow's story on here who got 16" wheels and went to BF Goodrich Commercial T/A's and has been smiling ever since. That will probably be my next step, and if I ever had serious blowout problems with the 15" ST's, that's exactly what I'd do. But to date, I've been happy with the Maxxis tire.

They are made in China. I'd prefer a domestically made tire. But that was all the place had when I got the trailer. Fortunately after I got them home, I read nothing but positive.

Anyway, I wish you luck with your rig. You might look hard at getting a new set of wheels and going to 16" or 17".

Take care,
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Old 07-24-2008, 03:20 PM   #35
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The UE-168 is indeed available in a 225/75 R15.
not according to their website.

UE-168(N) Bravo Series

there is a 70 series listed in 225/15, and it would be slightly short, but could work.

using the 235 width shouldn't be a problem aslongas it clears the well and other bits.

this tire is a radial but has the look of bias ply tires and may appeal to folks wanting that...

i suspect the ride would be a tad harsher and heat could be an issue.

belt separation isn't the same as tread separation or tread chunk loss...

although both are a pia when traveling.

Quote:
Originally Posted by handn View Post
...I promise Any or anyone else that they will have a blowout ...
that hasn't been my experience towing fast, long and hot as a 2nd set of 6 are about to wear out.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f438...ons-27999.html

of course one spare has a plug/patch and one everyday tire has been badly curbed twice

and these all roll at 72+ mph routinely, so a tire fatality wouldn't be a total surprise.

cheers
2air'
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Old 07-24-2008, 05:03 PM   #36
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With all this talk of tire failures, I check my trailer tires more than I check my truck tires in the seven years that I have my truck. Of course if you have a tire problem in your truck you feel it more easily.
Still my trailer tires (Marathons) are six years old and still have at least half the tread left. I use the trailer about ten times a year(April till the end of October) and then it sits till the next spring (on the tires, not jacked up). I have had no problems and don't know what to do. Based on the age of the tires I should think about changing them and will probably get Marathons again.
All you folks who won't buy made in China but get Maxxis made in Taiwan(China) make me laugh. The bottom line is do they make the tires to the specs required by the manufacturer? We will never know.
And of course we all get what we want. Low prices require "made in China".
But I noticed that the price didn't drop when they moved the plant from Canada to China. Hmmm!
Al
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Old 07-24-2008, 05:44 PM   #37
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All you folks who won't buy made in China but get Maxxis made in Taiwan(China) make me laugh. The bottom line is do they make the tires to the specs required by the manufacturer? We will never know.
And of course we all get what we want. Low prices require "made in China".
But I noticed that the price didn't drop when they moved the plant from Canada to China. Hmmm!
Al
Well, for me, it was buy a Goodyear made in China or a Maxxis made in China, so I opted for the Maxxis based on it having the nylon cap. Having had several sports cars with the nylon cap, I have yet to have any separation on any tire, and one car I drive it like I stole it.

I had no issues with my Goodyear Marathons. It was a judgement call based on what I read and researched. With about 1400 miles so far on the Maxxis tires...so good. As Jack said, time will tell to see if it was in fact a good choice.
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Old 07-24-2008, 07:11 PM   #38
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70 75 70 75 70 75 70

Did I say 75 series? I meant 70

OK 2Air, you got me. I held the tire in my hand and actually stuck one on the trailer, but I thought it was a 75 series. Must have been the 70 series. Yep, it would have worked, but it looked too small. The bigger one fits pretty nicely.

I bought six of them at Go Forth Tire in TN, just east of Knoxville. Really nice folks there. I rolled in at 4:45 and they mounted and balanced (although they said they don't normally balance trailer tires....Camping World told me the same thing....I have yet to figure that out...) them for me when they were to close in 15 minutes.

I was short of cash, and didn't get a spare. Well, a month later I got my local tire place to try to get me one. He couldn't, so I ordered it from Unser Tire online. He gave me the same deal Go Forth did; about $90 per. Anyway, the local guy told me that many of the popular name tires are now made in China.

Yes, I know that as long as they meet the specs, it doesn't matter much where they're made. But I try to buy domestic whenever I can.

I've had very good luck in the past with Michelin and Goodrich. I believe they are essentially the same company now. I think Michelin owns Goodrich.

I run 60-65psi and they seem to run cool. I don't have an infrared thermometer, but I can lay my hand on them as soon as I stop and they're not uncomfortably hot. Not the most scientific, but it's a go/no go thing. So far they've been fine. I have Carlisles on my utility trailer. I've heard a lot of ill about them too, but I've been fine with them so far.

Oh well, like Andy says, keep the pressure right and take a look at them from time to time and you're 90% there.
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Old 07-25-2008, 06:58 AM   #39
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I'm curious whether he was running the E rated tires. At 70 psi, he's within the operating limits of the E's. I'm running my E's at 75 psi.

Jack
Hi Jack; Please pardon my intrusion into discussion of which I do know much about when it comes to tire engineering. Being in a boat business for four decades and selling hundreds of boat trailers I had plenty of opportunities to see it all. Long, long time ago I got to sell a heavy Sea OX boat and trailer to a engineer from a well known tire manufacturer.
At the time of delivery he had asked how I have adjusted the tire pressure on his double axle trailer. You have 50 lbs, I replied. How did you know how much pressure to put in, he asked. I was had. At this point he proceeded to say that he will provide me with a old tire inflation secret.

He asked to provide him with a floor jack, 12"x12" steel or aluminum sheet, ruler, Vaseline and cheap brush. This had me puzzled while he proceeded to hitch up. Without any hesitation I have provided him with requested materials. Son, he said, you need to learn about the proper way to inflate tires. Proceeding on, he explained that the best inflation rate is the one that will produce a square tire footprint on the ground when loaded and hitched up with trailer frame level and level surface between the trailer and the TV. While I was jacking up one side of the trailer, he proceeded to smear Vaseline across the aluminum sheet. He slid the Vaseline coated sheet under the tire and grabbed the floor jack form me. He proceeded to ever so slowly lower the jack until the jack was free of the frame. Then, he jacked up the side again until tires left the ground. Grabbing the ruler he started to measure the width and length of the Vaseline print left on the tire. It was 3/4" longer than it's width. Here is the secret he said, the tire is designed to carry a given load properly when the foot print is square. The movement in plies or cords is them minimized, thus reducing the heat factor. Rest of factors depend on mileage, load carried, weathering, road hazard's and prolonged storage under load.
He also stressed the importance of balancing. I have followed his theory ever since, and every new boat trailer gets this treatment. We see very few problems with most tires. Did this man knew something we are not aware of? In the mean time, I have to go camping in Promised Land State Park in Pa. Thanks, "Boatdoc"
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Old 07-25-2008, 12:41 PM   #40
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... Long, long time ago...he explained that the best inflation rate is the one that will produce a square tire footprint...
nice story.

could this have been true during the bias tire era or PRE-pneumatic tire daz?

perhaps, but it doesn't apply to modern radial tires.

the shape of tire 'foot prints' today, is largely determined by the aspect ratio, shoulder design and matching of tire/rim widths...

so really LOW profile tires tend to have a wide/rectangular contact patch...

and HIGH profile tires tend to have a narrow/rectangular contact patch.

ideally weight is distributed evenly across the contact patch REGARDLESS of shape....

and tires that are OVER or UNDER inflated will show wear patterns that suggest the contact patch isn't evenly supporting the load

of course it would be better NOT to wait for 1,000s of miles of wear to reveal this info, so...

contact patch uniformity can be determined using chalk or talcum and rolling forward/backward on a smooth road surface.

and the load inflation tables were developed to provide us this info without trial/error using chalk or wet stuff.

but the inflation tables only work IF the actual load is known at each contact point.

here is a very basic intro to the c.p. issue,

tire print basics...

but this is a big topic for tire performance and fuel economy and tire wear and vehicle SAFETY...

so there is LOTS of info relating to the contact patch, not requiring vas o line....

cheers
2air'
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Old 07-26-2008, 01:27 PM   #41
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Bruised Marathons?

I pulled out a few days ago wiyh my Rotochocks still in place. They rotated 1/2 turn. I backed up to get them back into position for removal.

I'm wondering now if this was enough deformation to bruise the tire?

I have been thinking of going to Maxxis tires and this may be a good excuse to do so now. However, the 65 mph max. speed does have me hesitating. I have noticed that the Marathon has an R speed rating (up to 106 mph). While I will certainly never tow at 100 mph, I do generally tow at 70 mph.

Ed
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Old 07-26-2008, 03:17 PM   #42
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....the 65 mph max. speed does have me hesitating. I have noticed that the Marathon has an R speed rating (up to 106 mph)...
hi buzzy4...

the R u c on the gyms, relates to radial ply construction.

ST (tires stamped with the special trailer SERVICE DESIGNATION) tires aren't speed rated,

in the way modern conventional passenger tires are.

basically the speed rating is the speed, passenger tires are capable of maintaining for 10 MINUTES before tire failure.

speed ratings are used for passenger car tires and some LT tires only.

ST designated tires are LOAD rated AT 65 mph...

with guidelines provided (inflation/load) for up use to 75 mph.

my reading suggests that all ST designated tires are load rated at 65 mph.

the bruising issue is important.

my approach, which may be total horsehocky, to this issue is....

1. mark the tire at the area it's been stressed (from curbs, chucks, ramps, blocks, holes or whatever)
2. remove from trailer and inspect the marked area, also inspect the rim carefully and wheel weights.
3. reduce air pressure to 20-25 psi and 'feel' the tire for soft spots or irregularities...
4. INFLATE to max psi +10 psi more (75 psi for a gym)
5. look for visual signs of belt or tire weakening, if ANYTHING is found, ditch the tire.
6. if it looks and feels normal, reduce pressure to 65 psi and use it again.
7. occasionally check the MARKED area for signs of weakness, while giving attention to temps and pressures.
8. if the space is a fresher, less worn or less "stressed' tire, consider swapping.

cheers
2air'
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