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Old 07-23-2011, 06:19 AM   #29
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Generally I agree about avoiding cheap tools, but I must say that I have had good luck with inexpensive torque wrenches of the "beam" type. They are pretty simple devices.

I have several, both the "click" type that incorporate an adjustable spring and a mechanism that gives an audible click when you reach the desired torque, and the "beam" type that use a pointer and a scale.

I have to say that my preference is for the beam type - simpler and less to go wrong.

As Bob has mentioned, a 1/2" drive unit of whichever style you prefer is fine. Typically, that size will measure torque up to 150 ft-lbs and your lug nut spec is probably 90-95.

I have checked the calibration of the various torque wrenches that I own by using a digital weigh scale, and found all to be surprisingly accurate.


Brian.
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Old 07-23-2011, 06:48 AM   #30
one of those
 
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Found this in the Wikipedia (yeah, yeah, I know about Wikipedia, I've written some of their stuff myself) and it sounds authoritative, and makes sense as well:

"The torque value is dependent on the friction produced by the threads and by the fastened material's contact with both the fastener head and the associated nut. Moreover, this friction can be affected by the application of a lubricant or any plating (e.g. cadmium or zinc) applied to the threads, and the fastener's standard defines whether the torque value is for dry or lubricated threading, as lubrication can reduce the torque value by 15% to 25%; lubricating a fastener designed to be torqued dry could over-tighten it, which may damage threading or stretch the fastener beyond its elastic limit, thereby reducings its ability to clamp a joint."

found at:
Bolted joint - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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Old 07-23-2011, 11:51 AM   #31
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Thanks for the advice and suggestions. I like the option of combined SAE & metric calibration so I only need one torque wrench in the tool box. Time to go shopping.... again.
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Old 07-23-2011, 06:17 PM   #32
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As mentioned it looks to be some type of anti-theft lug nut. A friend has a body shop. He has a set of tapered sockets made just for removing anti-theft lugs when the key is not available or lost. They are 1/2" drive and you hammer them on and using a 1/2" drive impact gun you take it off. I have never seen the type you show and not sure if that set would fit. Just another solution for a typical problem.
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Old 07-23-2011, 09:02 PM   #33
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I carry a four way lug wrench and use the bottle jack from my TV. Works great. I may add a breakover bar just for kicks, but unless some crazy guy with a torque wrench has overtightened my lugs this seems to work okay.
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Old 07-24-2011, 06:05 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goal15 View Post
I carry a four way lug wrench and use the bottle jack from my TV. Works great. I may add a breakover bar just for kicks, but unless some crazy guy with a torque wrench has overtightened my lugs this seems to work okay.
Better to be overtightened than too loose. Dont ask how I know. Sal.
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Old 07-24-2011, 07:53 PM   #35
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Tire failure

Just a thought. All the posts with pic's seem to show failure of the rear tires. I drive a F-250 with a trailer rated for 7 tons daily. In the last 4 years have covered more than 110,000 mi with out a tire failure. I live in NC where we see temps in excess of 95 degrees all summer. I am a roofing contractor and daily drive full loads. My question to all is do you rotate your tires? In a tandum configuration the rear axcel tires are continually being dragged around and have massive sideways friction (may be a cause for "tire separation") I read about. I drive local roads and freeways in excess of 65mph but I rotate tires and keep inflated to max pressure. Has anyone else noticed the rear tire failure syndrome? Would like to hear from those of you with frequent failures to see if they are front or rear tires. I just put new Carlisle tires on my 29 Excella so far no issues but they have less than 5000mi on them.
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Old 07-25-2011, 11:41 AM   #36
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Quote:
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Better to be overtightened than too loose. Dont ask how I know. Sal.
just right is what the nuts need. Too tight will warp rotors and drums.
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Old 07-25-2011, 01:19 PM   #37
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I mis-typed . . .

What I should have said was some overzealous guy with an impact wrench... not torque wrench. If they used torque wrenchs, one could get the lugs off with the proper amount of effort, not left standing on the side of the road wondering WTH?
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Old 07-28-2011, 02:15 PM   #38
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What I should have said was some overzealous guy with an impact wrench... not torque wrench. If they used torque wrenchs, one could get the lugs off with the proper amount of effort, not left standing on the side of the road wondering WTH?
I carry an Impact wrench and a set of deep impact sockets. Convienent since I have an on board air compressor mount on my truck.
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Old 07-28-2011, 02:35 PM   #39
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HI from Virginia Beach!

Quote:
Originally Posted by moosetags View Post
... In the last 4 1/2 years, Lucy has logged over 70,000 miles, and we have camped in her for over 820 nights.

Lucy in now sporting 16" wheels with Michelin LT truck tires.

Brian
I just switched mine out to Michelins with the 16" rims too. Ran to SanAntonio and back and they were great.

If your 2005 had original rubber, the sidewalls had probably cracked due to sun and sitting damage. And as noted by Brian, no trailer tires are rated for over 55 MPH. The BEST deal on the rims and tires is probably to drag her to the factory in Ohio. I bought mine separately and ended up paying way too much, but I used those orange Lynx levelers to change the tires just as Brian's photos show. Actually easier and safer than jacking IMHO. You can get the Lynx Levelers at WalMart locally... buy two boxes. I've actually gotten my tow vehicle stuck in mud and built an "orange brick road" that got me out.

Welcome to the forum. Paula
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Old 10-29-2011, 11:57 AM   #40
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Junk lug's

POI...get rid of those cheep lug's with the chrome caps, their junk!

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McGard 64010 Chrome Bulge Cone Seat Style Lug Nuts (1/2" - 20 Thread Size) - Set of 4
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Old 10-31-2011, 09:12 AM   #41
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Lug nuts with chrome caps

Have been lucky and experienced no flats. I believe I have the lug nuts w/chrome caps and have this question:

In removing the lug nuts, do you remove the chrome caps first and if so, is there a special tool to remove them? It seems that if I put the lug wrench driectly on the caps that they would get scratched up pretty quickly.

As always, thanks in advance.
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Old 10-31-2011, 09:27 AM   #42
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Quote:
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Have been lucky and experienced no flats. I believe I have the lug nuts w/chrome caps and have this question:

In removing the lug nuts, do you remove the chrome caps first and if so, is there a special tool to remove them? It seems that if I put the lug wrench driectly on the caps that they would get scratched up pretty quickly.

As always, thanks in advance.
You won't scratch the McGards'. Have used them for years, without any marks.
If you remove those chrome "caps" it's almost impossible to find a socket that fits (metric), and getting them back on would be a problem.

Bob
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