Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 

Go Back   Airstream Forums > Airstream Restoration, Repair & Parts Forums > Running Gear - Axles, Brakes, Wheels & Tires > Tires
Click Here to Login
Register Vendors FAQ Community Calendar Today's Posts Search Log in

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-01-2016, 09:23 AM   #1
2 Rivet Member
 
1989 34' Excella
Austin , Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 40
How to Remove Bearing Cap?

I'm trying to pull a tire for repair on my new-to-me 87 Excella. Having removed all the lug nuts, the tire won't budge. I assume there's a final nut under an aluminum cap covering the bearings ... (and forgive me if my terminology is wrong).

What's the best way to remove this cap? I tried tapping a screwdriver into the seam and prying, but this began cutting into the aluminum tire rim. Tapping with a hammer risks denting the cap. Maybe I should use a rubber mallet? Or is there a special tool for pulling these off?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	cap.jpg
Views:	217
Size:	344.3 KB
ID:	254905  
MohawkDaddy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2016, 09:32 AM   #2
Retired.
 
Currently Looking...
. , At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
Remove the tire and wheel, then tap the center cap out of the wheel using a rubber hammer.
There is nothing behind the center cap that holds the wheel to the hub.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
overlander63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2016, 09:42 AM   #3
"Cloudsplitter"

 
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas , Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
Images: 1
Thumbs down Frozen corrosion.....

What has worked for me....
....... a loooong breaker bar thru the wheel slots and push hard.

Get a DBH and proceed to whack the rim from the inside.

Firm flat hits between the studs with a 1" square brass drift also helps.

POI.....use a wire brush in a cordless drill to completely clean ALL corrosion on the mating surfaces...wheel & flange.
Anti-seize around the center hole and flange lip.

Good Luck....

Bob
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
ROBERT CROSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2016, 09:47 AM   #4
4 Rivet Member
 
crisen's Avatar
 
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Fairbanks , Alaska
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 268
Images: 5
It is not unusual to have the wheel stuck to the brake drum/hub due to corrosion if the wheel hasn't been off in years. Might try your favorite penetrating oil sprayed between wheel and drum and let it soak for couple hours if brute force doesn't work😀.
__________________
Rick
"When you find yourself in a hole - quit digging!"

2012 1/2 Eddie Bauer, 2016 Ram Laramie 3500 SWB 4x4 6.7L Cummins 68RFE
crisen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2016, 10:23 AM   #5
Rivet Master
 
Sphere Guy's Avatar
 
Livingston , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 586
Overlander is correct, tree is not a nut behind the wheel. The cap you are referring to comes out through the back of the rim where a lip holds it in place.

After securing the trailer with the tire off the ground, use your foot or feet to push or kick the wheel at the bottom and then the top and/or sides. Repeating this around the rim. This may loosen the wheel from the hub. It may take a few kicks to get it free. Then clean and buff the offending grime or the like to prepare it for the wheel again.

The cap will need to be pushed through from the front of the rim, clean as needed to reassemble.
__________________
Sphere Guy
AIR 50601
Sphere Guy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2016, 10:47 AM   #6
2 Rivet Member
 
1989 34' Excella
Austin , Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 40
Thank you, friends! I'll give those techniques a whirl!
MohawkDaddy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2016, 10:56 AM   #7
2 Rivet Member
 
2014 16' Sport
Walnut Creek , California
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 49
I spray brake clean around each stud to clean any dirt or dust off the studs, and then penetrating oil around each stud. Let it sit for awhile. Grab tire at the top to see if you have any wiggle room. Spin tire around to check different places. And also when you put it back on, be sure to torque wheel. You should not have this problem the next time.
Elbo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2016, 11:13 AM   #8
3 Rivet Member
 
harryk's Avatar
 
2005 31' Classic
Venice , Florida
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 187
The rim comes off first...the cap comes off from the back once the tire & rim are off. If not off for a long time, rim may be seized to the drum. Take a sledge & beat on the inside of the tire first & then the rim with a wood block
harryk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2016, 11:15 AM   #9
Rivet Master
 
2015 25' Flying Cloud
2016 30' Flying Cloud
Blenheim Ontario , Ontario
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 1,263
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elbo View Post
I spray brake clean around each stud to clean any dirt or dust off the studs, and then penetrating oil around each stud. Let it sit for awhile. Grab tire at the top to see if you have any wiggle room. Spin tire around to check different places. And also when you put it back on, be sure to torque wheel. You should not have this problem the next time.
AFTER all that, and BEFORE torquing the wheel nuts, make sure the stud threads are clean of any oils. Then torque to spec. (110 lb.ft. on my 2015 'Cloud.)
Reason? Any lubes or oils on the studs will reduce the friction factor, and by using ' dry' torques will result in overtightened/broken studs.
Remember, that only 10% of your torque is actually used to tighten the fastener; the rest is to overcome friction. 40% on the nut face, and 50% on the threads.
A good rule is, if just oil, reduce your torque by 20%.
If using "never-seize" or C-5 Colloidal Copper, reduce torque be 40% to achieve the same bolt tension.

(Source: Premier Fastener Corp. in Cleveland.d)
MelGoddard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2016, 12:06 PM   #10
2 Rivet Member
 
2014 23' FB Flying Cloud
Mill Valley , Left Coast
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 61
Sit on ground and kick it on alternating sides. Don't mess with the nut unless you want access to bearings or internals.
jbxx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2016, 12:50 PM   #11
2 Rivet Member
 
1994 34' Excella
San Antonio , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 39
You may want to try and take one of the other tires off first to see how it all goes together so as to understand that what is under the center hub cap has nothing to do with being able to pull the wheel/tire. On our trailer the hub cap is mainly for looks and you must take the wheel/tire off first to be able to remove the hub cap. The following web page does show you some pics of what to expect. Mali Mish – Airstream Maintenance: How to Repack Your Axle Bearings.
delongj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2016, 12:52 PM   #12
Happy Wonderer
 
B_Pi's Avatar
 
1997 25' Safari
Box Elder , South Dakota
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 66
Our 1997 Safari caps don't come off from that side. Remove wheel, take cap off from inside. I just serviced bearings and brakes and that is how it seems to me anyway. Didn't try to force.
B_Pi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2016, 06:07 PM   #13
4 Rivet Member
 
1977 31' Sovereign
Lynnwood , Washington
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 311
The wheel is seized onto the drum/hub. This is caused by rust. Depending on how long it's been that way, it may be difficult to get the wheel off.

Before re-installing the wheel, apply a thin coat of grease to the back side of the wheel and the mating surface of the drum.

The "aluminum cap" you're talking about pushes through the wheel and out the back side. Naturally, the wheel hasta be removed first.

Tom
TomKirk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2016, 06:27 PM   #14
3 Rivet Member
 
1972 27' Overlander
Woodburn , Oregon
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 131
Nothing is seized you just need to take the wheel and tire off first like overlander stated above , it's just common sense
shineybullet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2016, 07:18 PM   #15
"Cloudsplitter"

 
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas , Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
Images: 1
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by shineybullet View Post
Nothing is seized you just need to take the wheel and tire off first like overlander stated above , it's just common sense
>>>>"I'm trying to pull a tire for repair on my new-to-me 87 Excella. Having removed all the lug nuts, the tire won't budge." SNIP.....

S B....read the OP before offering blind observation. It's just common sense.


Bob
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
ROBERT CROSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2016, 06:13 AM   #16
Rivet Master
 
Moflash's Avatar
 
2007 28' International CCD
Springfield , Missouri
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,423
Use a large rubber mallet and hit the tire around the outer edge.If it does not release carefully hit the back of the tire out.If still no release lower the jack slowly putting weight on wheel and tire without lug nuts then raise trailer again.


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
Moflash is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2016, 07:00 AM   #17
Retired.
 
Currently Looking...
. , At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
I've had these wheels "stick" so badly, I've had to loosely install the lug nuts, put the trailer back on its wheels, and tow it around the yard, to break them loose. Just DON'T go out on the street that way.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
overlander63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2016, 02:20 PM   #18
Moderator dude
 
Action's Avatar

 
1966 26' Overlander
Phoenix , Arizona
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 7,508
Images: 13
^^^^ That is a good technique. I have done this as well. Not in AZ when I lived in Michigan.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>Aciton
__________________
1966 Mercury Park Lane 4 DR Breezeway 410 4V, C-6, 2.80 - Streamless.
1966 Lincoln 4 door Convertible 462 4V 1971 Ford LTD Convertible 429 4V Phoenix ~ Yeah it's hot however it's a dry heat!
Action is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors Ron A Wheels, Hubs & Bearings 23 05-19-2015 06:48 AM
Hub "cap" and bearing seal missing Landmammal Wheels, Hubs & Bearings 4 11-12-2011 06:54 PM
Load bearing or not load bearing? Petethefeet Ribs, Skins & Rivets 3 04-27-2008 07:36 AM
Bearing Cap louie Brakes & Brake Controllers 5 06-12-2007 06:43 AM
1964 Bambi II bearing dust cap louie 1964 Bambi II 1 06-08-2007 11:18 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:13 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.