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Old 01-01-2016, 10:23 AM   #1
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1989 34' Excella
Austin , Texas
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How to Remove Bearing Cap?

I'm trying to pull a tire for repair on my new-to-me 87 Excella. Having removed all the lug nuts, the tire won't budge. I assume there's a final nut under an aluminum cap covering the bearings ... (and forgive me if my terminology is wrong).

What's the best way to remove this cap? I tried tapping a screwdriver into the seam and prying, but this began cutting into the aluminum tire rim. Tapping with a hammer risks denting the cap. Maybe I should use a rubber mallet? Or is there a special tool for pulling these off?
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Old 01-01-2016, 10:32 AM   #2
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1993 21' Sovereign
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Remove the tire and wheel, then tap the center cap out of the wheel using a rubber hammer.
There is nothing behind the center cap that holds the wheel to the hub.
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Old 01-01-2016, 10:42 AM   #3
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2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , WNY
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Thumbs down Frozen corrosion.....

What has worked for me....
....... a loooong breaker bar thru the wheel slots and push hard.

Get a DBH and proceed to whack the rim from the inside.

Firm flat hits between the studs with a 1" square brass drift also helps.

POI.....use a wire brush in a cordless drill to completely clean ALL corrosion on the mating surfaces...wheel & flange.
Anti-seize around the center hole and flange lip.

Good Luck....

Bob
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Old 01-01-2016, 10:47 AM   #4
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2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Fairbanks , Alaska
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It is not unusual to have the wheel stuck to the brake drum/hub due to corrosion if the wheel hasn't been off in years. Might try your favorite penetrating oil sprayed between wheel and drum and let it soak for couple hours if brute force doesn't work😀.
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Old 01-01-2016, 11:23 AM   #5
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Overlander is correct, tree is not a nut behind the wheel. The cap you are referring to comes out through the back of the rim where a lip holds it in place.

After securing the trailer with the tire off the ground, use your foot or feet to push or kick the wheel at the bottom and then the top and/or sides. Repeating this around the rim. This may loosen the wheel from the hub. It may take a few kicks to get it free. Then clean and buff the offending grime or the like to prepare it for the wheel again.

The cap will need to be pushed through from the front of the rim, clean as needed to reassemble.
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Old 01-01-2016, 11:47 AM   #6
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1989 34' Excella
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Thank you, friends! I'll give those techniques a whirl!
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Old 01-01-2016, 11:56 AM   #7
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2014 16' Sport
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I spray brake clean around each stud to clean any dirt or dust off the studs, and then penetrating oil around each stud. Let it sit for awhile. Grab tire at the top to see if you have any wiggle room. Spin tire around to check different places. And also when you put it back on, be sure to torque wheel. You should not have this problem the next time.
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Old 01-01-2016, 12:13 PM   #8
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1993 25' Excella
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The rim comes off first...the cap comes off from the back once the tire & rim are off. If not off for a long time, rim may be seized to the drum. Take a sledge & beat on the inside of the tire first & then the rim with a wood block
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Old 01-01-2016, 12:15 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elbo View Post
I spray brake clean around each stud to clean any dirt or dust off the studs, and then penetrating oil around each stud. Let it sit for awhile. Grab tire at the top to see if you have any wiggle room. Spin tire around to check different places. And also when you put it back on, be sure to torque wheel. You should not have this problem the next time.
AFTER all that, and BEFORE torquing the wheel nuts, make sure the stud threads are clean of any oils. Then torque to spec. (110 lb.ft. on my 2015 'Cloud.)
Reason? Any lubes or oils on the studs will reduce the friction factor, and by using ' dry' torques will result in overtightened/broken studs.
Remember, that only 10% of your torque is actually used to tighten the fastener; the rest is to overcome friction. 40% on the nut face, and 50% on the threads.
A good rule is, if just oil, reduce your torque by 20%.
If using "never-seize" or C-5 Colloidal Copper, reduce torque be 40% to achieve the same bolt tension.

(Source: Premier Fastener Corp. in Cleveland.d)
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Old 01-01-2016, 01:06 PM   #10
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Sit on ground and kick it on alternating sides. Don't mess with the nut unless you want access to bearings or internals.
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Old 01-01-2016, 01:50 PM   #11
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1994 34' Excella
San Antonio , Texas
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You may want to try and take one of the other tires off first to see how it all goes together so as to understand that what is under the center hub cap has nothing to do with being able to pull the wheel/tire. On our trailer the hub cap is mainly for looks and you must take the wheel/tire off first to be able to remove the hub cap. The following web page does show you some pics of what to expect. Mali Mish – Airstream Maintenance: How to Repack Your Axle Bearings.
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Old 01-01-2016, 01:52 PM   #12
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Our 1997 Safari caps don't come off from that side. Remove wheel, take cap off from inside. I just serviced bearings and brakes and that is how it seems to me anyway. Didn't try to force.
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Old 01-01-2016, 07:07 PM   #13
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1977 31' Sovereign
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The wheel is seized onto the drum/hub. This is caused by rust. Depending on how long it's been that way, it may be difficult to get the wheel off.

Before re-installing the wheel, apply a thin coat of grease to the back side of the wheel and the mating surface of the drum.

The "aluminum cap" you're talking about pushes through the wheel and out the back side. Naturally, the wheel hasta be removed first.

Tom
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Old 01-01-2016, 07:27 PM   #14
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Woodburn , Oregon
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Nothing is seized you just need to take the wheel and tire off first like overlander stated above , it's just common sense
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