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Old 09-08-2015, 10:28 AM   #29
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Lubricate Your Nuts

I never lift the vehicle to re-torque. On the ground and always use a torque wrench.

On the subject of torquing and re-torquing. I have been schooled on the use of anti-seize lubricant on the threads when installing a wheel and lugs. I have read advice from engineers that say use it as well.

Here is a video I found amusing. Aussie humor.
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:40 AM   #30
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This from the GM (Silverado) Service manual:

"Warning: Never grease or lubricate wheel nuts, studs and mounting surfaces. Wheel nuts, studs, and mounting surfaces must be clean and dry. Tightening the lubricated parts can cause damage to the wheel studs. This can cause a wheel to come off when the vehicle is moving, causing loss of control and possibly personal injury."

This supports my ongoing position on this forum.

And this from the owner manual:

"Warning: Never use oil or grease on bolts or nuts because the nuts might come loose. The vehicle's wheel could fall off, causing a crash. "
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Old 09-08-2015, 12:47 PM   #31
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Reality based?

I don't think the suggestion to torque wheel lugs with tires off ground is practical on the road. I would use the lifting ramp to raise the adjacent wheel. Would require 4 repositionings. Likely would take me 2 hours to do 4 trailer wheels. Then would I need to jack up the TV one wheel at a time in order to torque check its wheels? I carry a click type 1/2" torque wrench with impact deep sockets for the trailer & TV lugs; made by quality conscious Chinese technicians of Harbor Freight. All these years, checking torque with wheels on ground. Didn't know what I was doing, apparently...
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Old 09-08-2015, 01:02 PM   #32
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Torque was OK, but it broke off

I was checking torque on E250 Coach House's aluminum wheels a few months ago. One of the drum studs (RR wheel) is sheared off flush with the drum. All other stud nuts were spot on torqued. I found stud up in nut on my drive way a few days later. I have replacrment stud & nut, shops aren't interested in doing the work. My 25 year mech said 7 of 8 studs is enough. Another shop said right
side axle would have to come out to pull the stud & replace & didn't have time to do this job. So, I'm driving around with 31 out of 32 wheel lugs on the E250.

I guess this repair job has turned into a project.

Let's Roll !
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Old 09-08-2015, 01:07 PM   #33
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Same service manual quoted above says (and my training says so as well) to never drive with missing lug and when one has stretched to the point of failure, all should be replaced (for that wheel/axle side)
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Old 09-08-2015, 01:08 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batman View Post
I never lift the vehicle to re-torque. On the ground and always use a torque wrench.

On the subject of torquing and re-torquing. I have been schooled on the use of anti-seize lubricant on the threads when installing a wheel and lugs. I have read advice from engineers that say use it as well.
I was taught never to use a lubricant or anti-seize compound on a thread and expect that the published dry torque spec would result in the correct tightness. Since most torque specs are dry, leave the threads dry. If they publish both a dry and wet torque spec, you can take your pick and lube or not, accordingly.

If it is a hub centric wheel, I clean the hub and use anti-seize just at the contact point, if judged necessary based on the condition of the hub and wheel.

I also noted that the video said to tighten five studs in a star pattern. Agreed. But I was taught to check six nuts or bolts on a five stud wheel, always rechecking the first stud to ensure you got them all.

I never lift the vehicle to retorque. I always use a torque wrench.

Jeff
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Old 09-09-2015, 09:41 PM   #35
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Hi, before each and every trip I torque all of the lug nuts on my truck and trailer and never touch them again. Airstream says 110 to 120 lbs for my aluminum wheels and I always torque at the maximum. [120 lbs] I have a steel spare and Airstream says to torque it at 90 lbs. My Lincoln is 150 lbs and my F-150 is 148 lbs.

If for any reason a wheel or wheels have been removed, I re-torque them in the next day or two while the wheels are cool. On this trip I am on now, I had my tires rotated at the Ford dealer two days ago and I checked the torque today.

I also set my tire's air pressure and don't touch them until my next trip. This has worked well for me while towing this trailer for eleven years. My air pressure and wheel torque for my trailer was set in Salem, Oregon over two months ago and over 5,000 miles ago. We are in Maine right now.
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Old 11-29-2015, 03:41 PM   #36
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How do you Re-torque your Lug Nuts?

Hi, noobie here. I did a search to ask this dumb question.

What size are my lug nuts?

I have a 2016 27' FC FB. I thought I read somewhere the lug nuts were 13/16", but when I got to the trailer today to check the fit, the socket was awfully loose.

I happened to have a 19mm socket to hand, and it fit very snugly.

Is it possible my 2016 uses metric nuts? I checked several places in the Owner's Manual, including Section 8 about lug nut torques, but could not find the lug nut size listed.

Thanks for any help.



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Old 11-29-2015, 04:14 PM   #37
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3/4".
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Old 11-29-2015, 04:17 PM   #38
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I have not seen anything in writing from Airstream about the lug nut size. On my 2013 25FB, I use a 3/4 inch or 19mm six-point socket. (the two are almost identical: 3/4 inch = 19.05mm). Both seem to fit the same.

Let me emphasize what "greghoro" said earlier on this forum:

On mine and probably on yours, the lug nuts are actually two pieces: The shiny parts that you see are a flimsy metal cover. Over time, they get bunged up. The first time I had a shop do maintenance on my rig, some of the covers were crunched enough that I could not remove them myself, using my six point sockets and breaker bar. That meant I would be SOL if I ever had a flat tire on the road. So I bought an impact wrench, removed all the original nuts, and replaced them with solid nuts.
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Old 11-29-2015, 04:22 PM   #39
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First thing is get rid of the two piece nuts if you still have them. Replace with quality one piece. You will not regret it. Next get a good torque wrench and learn to use it.
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Old 11-29-2015, 05:03 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne&Sam View Post
3/4".
Thanks, I just wanted a second opinion before I started cranking on the wheels.

Good to go.
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Old 11-30-2015, 08:40 AM   #41
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There are two dimensions you need to consider: thread size and pitch of the stud and Hex wrench size.

Most Airstreams use 1/2" x 20 thread size and pitch and a 3/4" Hex wrench.


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Old 11-30-2015, 11:19 AM   #42
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Great. Another project. How can you tell if you have the two piece nuts.
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