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Old 09-05-2015, 01:25 PM   #15
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Wheels on the ground and simply recheck with a torque wrench.
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Old 09-05-2015, 04:42 PM   #16
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Is it me or did I not see one reference to the ft lbs of torque. This is a thread about torquing, isn't it? Obviously the torque is different for steel or aluminum or magnesium wheels! JMHO!
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Old 09-05-2015, 05:09 PM   #17
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Is it me or did I not see one reference to the ft lbs of torque. This is a thread about torquing, isn't it? Obviously the torque is different for steel or aluminum or magnesium wheels! JMHO!

I was told to use 110 ft lbs of torque on my 16" Sendel wheels with Michelins.


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Old 09-05-2015, 05:17 PM   #18
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I was told to use 110 ft lbs of torque on my 16" Sendel wheels with Michelins.


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That sounds right!
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Old 09-05-2015, 05:56 PM   #19
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I'm doing this from the phone, hope it works. I bought Hi Spec wheels and they have (on my model) steel inserts for the lug nut to clamp against. Note this is Hi Spec wheel info. Improved clamp force technology.

http://www.hispecwheel.com/page/244/...rce-Technology
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Old 09-05-2015, 06:34 PM   #20
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I was told to use 110 ft lbs of torque on my 16" Sendel wheels with Michelins.
Yrs 110 ft lbs it is. When you are at it, also check the TV. A while ago, I noted that I lost a lug nut on the TV. Since then I always keep a spare and make sure that we always start a trip with proper air pressure (TPMS helps) and check the wheels by tugging on the nuts A hand held torque wrench is in the airstream at all times for this.
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Old 09-05-2015, 11:14 PM   #21
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The manual for my 77 aluminum wheels says 90 ft lbs.
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Old 09-06-2015, 07:16 AM   #22
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If a manual for YOUR rims says a certain torque, then use it. When I get my torque wrench (the type that clicks) out I do the AS at 110,which Discount Tire told me, then dial in 140 for my GMC 2500, then I'm sure. I once lost a rear TV wheel entirely in Kentucky. Not loose lug nuts. The entire wheel stress fractured just outside the bolt hole pattern, and because I had the WD hitch set up firmly, I felt a dip but nothing dragged, then I saw a tire passing me on the passenger side! I no longer buy used truck wheels! Remember after doing the torque wrench tightening or checking, dial it back to -0- before you put it away, don't leave it set on the last number used.
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Old 09-06-2015, 12:02 PM   #23
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I'm doing this from the phone, hope it works. I bought Hi Spec wheels and they have (on my model) steel inserts for the lug nut to clamp against. Note this is Hi Spec wheel info. Improved clamp force technology.

Improved Clamp Force Technology - HiSpec Wheel & Tire, Inc. - The Safety Wheel
That is the brand I went with for my 16" too! The reason besides looks was the steel insert. A while ago I owned and 87 AS that had the aluminum wheels and no steel insert and over the years I noticed the holes on the aluminum wheels wallowed out. I don't see that happening with the Hi Spec brand.
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Old 09-06-2015, 04:07 PM   #24
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Loosening the lug nuts/bolts breaks the rust bond which would make torque readings useless if you don't do this and since there are too many variables to explain torque readings are not all that accurate. Use a torque wrench a few times just to get a feel for how tight is tight. The only thing I use a torque wrench for is for things like head gaskets where even torque is very important. Of course, when I was a kid, I would break bolts off because I did not have a feel for how tight was tight. I have never had a wheel come loose but then again I take loose wheels to the tire shop most of the time or at the very least check lugs when I get the car home. 90% of all loose wheel problems are the 16 yr old kid with NO EXPERIENCE who put your wheels on. I have also gotten pretty good a tightening lugs with an air wrench but it take experience and there are torque settings on air wrenches and you can watch the nut move to get an indication of how tight it is getting. For most people, air wrenches are a license to kill. If I was putting an airplane or a space shuttle together, I would probably use a torque wrench but then again there is a QC guy watching a technician who they found under a bridge somewhere so they need supervision. This is how the space station was built.

Perry
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Old 09-06-2015, 05:06 PM   #25
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BTW, I use the Tecton ½ inch torque wrench. It does its job nicely and was not expensive. When you buy wrench nuts, get the deep socket nuts; regular sized nuts are no good for wheels.
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Old 09-06-2015, 07:15 PM   #26
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Thumbs up Outside of work....

.....I always used,(and still do), a cordless torque wench....


On clean dry threads with smooth and true wheel & hub mating surfaces....haven't lost a wheel yet.

Bob
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Old 09-07-2015, 08:54 PM   #27
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When I bought the trailer, it ha yellow marks on the lug nuts and wheels. I could tell at a glance if any of the nuts had backed off.
When I got Jackson Center to balance the wheels, I retorqued them at the next 2-3 rest areas on 95 South.
After I installed my new wheels and tires last Thursday evening, I retorqued them at the campground Saturday morning and checked them again when I got home this afternoon.
I use a 4-way lug wrench and a beam torque wrench with a 3/4" socket.
Usually, I can tighten them a little the first time I check, but the second time they're tight.
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Old 09-08-2015, 07:45 AM   #28
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I second m.hony.

I never found any movement the second check. I also use the 'cordless torque wrench' shown above. And after 4 or 5 thousand miles I still find no appreciable movement on the wheel nuts when I get back home

I don't think the nuts back off, the metal just relaxes a bit as the steel takes a new set. Al metal is plastic, so it deforms under pressure. At some point it takes on the new "deformed" condition, and since the metal is no longer pushing back at the nut, the nut can be tightened further. If the nut is not re-torqued to spec then the normal stresses on the metal in the wheel start to allow movement until the steel is worn away and that's when the failure becomes imminent. No movement, no wear, no failure!
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