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mwells4654 · 10-27-2010, 07:25 PM

I want to see an answer to this. I might go with the TowMasters also. I am buying new wheels since mine are probably original and are pretty beaten up.

wxbuoy · 10-27-2010, 07:33 PM

Maxxis also has the 225/75R15 in D or E rated tires.... So should I stick to the d rated or go with the E rated for the extra ply and just inflate them to 65psi? I want to keep the ride smooth and have read that you shouldn't change from d to e rated tires on the same rims. Since my rims are relatively new (2003) and I don't plan to put a higher pressure in them.... Choices choices.

RLS · 10-27-2010, 07:43 PM

From the research I have done, there are only 2 tires available that are NOT ST tires. There is the Goodyear Cargo G26 and the Continental Vanco2 tire. Both are commercial tires. Both are a size 225/70R/15C. This means the trailer will sit 1/2" lower. The Vanco2 tire is what I have. So far I have put on about 6,000 miles with no problems. It has a rating of 112/110R and is a D rated tire, with a max. load of 2,470 lbs. at 65 psi. It is a 6 ply tire with 2 polyester, 2 steel and 2 nylon. Sidewall is 2 ply of polyester. Happy hunting

Air Cruiser · 10-27-2010, 07:51 PM

SRW, I'm sorry if you stated this and I missed it, but I couldn't find if you said where your Marathons were manufactured. I did read that you thought they were made in 2007, so I'm guessing that means they were mfd. in China since it was rather recent that Goodyear began mfg. in the US again, is that right?

Thanks.

Deb

aftermath · 10-27-2010, 09:27 PM

Deb,

The last I heard, Goodyear took their manufacturing back overseas to China. Originally American, they moved to China, then moved everything back here only to move back as of now. I am sure others who are more in the know will chime in.

I have a set of Marathons that look brand new even though they will be 5 years old next season. I will put on a set of Maxxis this spring.

Air Cruiser · 10-28-2010, 09:18 AM

aftermath,

Thanks so much for clearing that up for me.

Tires are such an important item, and we (my DH and I) have had numerous discussions about them. We really would like to put Michelins on the TT, but there is the question about whether or not 16" rims and tires would fit our 1969 Tradewind (of course we currently have 15" but as you know, Michelin doesn't make a 15" trailer tire).

We need tires asap, but we feel as though we're spinning in circles about which way to go.

Thanks again.

Deb

PS -- I hadn't heard that they had moved back to China -- how bad they are.

SRW · 10-28-2010, 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by D. Hall

SRW, I'm sorry if you stated this and I missed it, but I couldn't find if you said where your Marathons were manufactured. I did read that you thought they were made in 2007, so I'm guessing that means they were mfd. in China since it was rather recent that Goodyear began mfg. in the US again, is that right?

Thanks.

Deb

The tires were made in China.

Interestingly, I have been advised by JC that 80 psig exceeds the pressure limits of the rims (good for 65 psig max.)

Bottom line here is that either I go back to Marathon's or some other similar D Rated tire or mount larger rims and use 16" LT tires.

Will most likely go with Michelin 225-75-16 XPS with larger rims.

At this point I don't know what zero off-set means. But it seems important.

Gene · 10-28-2010, 06:28 PM

Mollie', were they talking about 15" or 16" wheels? When I had Michelins installed on 16" wheels at JC, they inflated them to 80 psi. That may indicate they meant 80 lbs. cold pressure. You don't have to inflate load range E tires to 80 psi unless you are carrying the maximum weight those tires can support. I use 68 psi in them.

I can't explain 0˚ offset very well, but I think it means the center of the wheel is directly over the end of the axle. I know that's not a good definition, but you can imagine if the wheel center is too far off that point, there's more weight off center too. I think this puts strain on the wheel bearings and axle.

Gene

dznf0g · 10-28-2010, 06:44 PM

I believe 0 offset means that the center of the wheel/tire tread is centered exactly halfway between the inner and outer wheel bearings so that the weight of the load is equal on both bearings. If they are offset you will have different loads on the inner and outer bearing an cause edge loading of the bearings....not good in the long run.

**azflycaster** · 10-28-2010, 07:08 PM

Zero Offset - The plane of the hub mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel.

Offset (wheel) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

dznf0g · 10-28-2010, 07:17 PM

....Which should be centered between the bearings.....

Beginner · 10-28-2010, 08:52 PM

Offset is to correct a situation where the lug bolt face is not exactly centered between the bearings. A good example of this is the wheel for a front wheel drive car or the dual wheels of a larger heaver truck. notice the large spacer on the front wheels of the dually pickups.

dznf0g · 10-28-2010, 09:06 PM

Beginner, correct. Sometimes the setup requires that the lug bolt face is not centered between the bearings. In this case the mfr will prescribe a + or - offset in the wheel to bring the center of the tire/wheel (center of load) back to the center of the bearings. The important point of this discussion is to never install a setup differing from the mfr offset recommendation. Perhaps I should correct my previous post to say that the center of load should always be in the center of the bearing setup, which is what I intended.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 10-28-2010, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Beginner, correct. Sometimes the setup requires that the lug bolt face is not centered between the bearings. In this case the mfr will prescribe a + or - offset in the wheel to bring the center of the tire/wheel (center of load) back to the center of the bearings. The important point of this discussion is to never install a setup differing from the mfr offset recommendation. Perhaps I should correct my previous post to say that the center of load should always be in the center of the bearing setup, which is what I intended.

Hi, in this case and with any other vehicle, the offset is more critical so the wheel assembly will fit in the wheel well with proper clearances.

dznf0g · 10-28-2010, 09:24 PM

Robert, I disagree. That's like saying I'm going to buy those size 11 Itialian shoes for my size 10 foot because they really look nice under my pant cuff. Sooner or later, my feet will pay.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 10-28-2010, 10:34 PM

Hi, I didn't mean that they would look good; I meant that they wouldn't let the tires rub on the wheel wells. As for shoes, I wore size 11 almost all of my life; Now I find that I have to buy size 12 if they are made in China.

dznf0g · 10-28-2010, 10:42 PM

That's because you look REALLY big to them!

dznf0g · 10-28-2010, 10:53 PM

Seriously, fitting to the wheel well should always be secondary to proper geometry. More meat has it's benefits, for a verity of reasons, but the desire for more tire, and sometimes changing offset to fit, should never trump engineering. If you compensate wheel well size for any of those reasons by changing offset this will happen:
1) you will experience a change in steering wheel input. Most likely a "dead" on center feel as well as steering wheel self centering upon release of turn effort. (realignment can help this, but not cure it)
2) Eventual accelerated front end wear....bearings, drag link, tie rod ends, idler arms (depends on mfr. front end design)

Please understand the entire front end is an engineered SYSTEM. PS calibration all the way to wheel bearing longevity. Tire wear and life will be affected too.

slowmover · 10-29-2010, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Seriously, fitting to the wheel well should always be secondary to proper geometry. More meat has it's benefits, for a verity of reasons, but the desire for more tire, and sometimes changing offset to fit, should never trump engineering. If you compensate wheel well size for any of those reasons by changing offset this will happen:
1) you will experience a change in steering wheel input. Most likely a "dead" on center feel as well as steering wheel self centering upon release of turn effort. (realignment can help this, but not cure it)
2) Eventual accelerated front end wear....bearings, drag link, tie rod ends, idler arms (depends on mfr. front end design)

Please understand the entire front end is an engineered SYSTEM. PS calibration all the way to wheel bearing longevity. Tire wear and life will be affected too.

Yah, if I were a tire dealer I'd also specialize in pickup truck "lift kits" and huge offroad tires . . . and run annual low-down-payment front end rebuild services