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Old 03-13-2015, 09:12 AM   #21
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I'm no automotive engineer... and I'm not looking to troll anybody (seriously)
but, offset is measured in millimeters or fractions of an inch

when the Dexter hub says "USE ZERO OFFSET RIMS ONLY", it's gotta mean something, right?

I balance the wheels prior to mounting. If I thought balance was an ongoing problem, I'd use the sand in the tires.
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Old 03-13-2015, 11:07 AM   #22
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Well I spoke with the service department today, and they said they would balance the wheels/tires for me. In fact, the service guy said that if it were his trailer he'd have that done!!!!

And the cost....about $15.00 per wheel. No brainer I guess. They also said they used some sort of powder(???) process to balance??? Never heard of this. Any ideas?
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Old 03-13-2015, 11:28 AM   #23
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Well I spoke with the service department today, and they said they would balance the wheels/tires for me. In fact, the service guy said that if it were his trailer he'd have that done!!!!



And the cost....about $15.00 per wheel. No brainer I guess. They also said they used some sort of powder(???) process to balance??? Never heard of this. Any ideas?

They may be talking about a powder (or beads) inside the tire which dynamically balance the tire (and axle?? not sure...) through centrifugal force. Similar principle to the centramatics on the hub only the balancing product is in the tires.

Some do not recommend this if using a TPMS as the powder can get in to the stem sensors.
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Old 03-13-2015, 11:41 AM   #24
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Thanks SteveSueMac.

Don't know what a TPMS is, but we just have a standard schrader(sp) valve for adding air, which is what they'll be replacing.

But yes, I believe it is something they do as the wheel is spinning. I'll try and get more info.
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Old 03-13-2015, 01:00 PM   #25
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Well I spoke with the service department today, and they said they would balance the wheels/tires for me. In fact, the service guy said that if it were his trailer he'd have that done!!!!

And the cost....about $15.00 per wheel. No brainer I guess. They also said they used some sort of powder(???) process to balance??? Never heard of this. Any ideas?
Its called Equal.
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Old 03-13-2015, 01:06 PM   #26
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Thanks for that r carl!
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Old 03-13-2015, 04:07 PM   #27
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TPMS = Tire Pressue Monitoring System
http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTPMSArticle.do

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Old 03-16-2015, 10:23 AM   #28
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A TPMS can warn you that a tire is loosing air and hopefully you can stop quickly in a safe manner before you damage the RV and possibly before the tire is damaged.
I have over 20 posts on my Tire Safety blog with TPMS being mentioned or the subject of a post.
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Old 03-18-2015, 12:59 PM   #29
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Hi Guys,

The service guy at Adventure RV also gave me a quote for Tow Max Load D(?) 127.00 each and also Tow Max Load E(?) for 134.00 each. Your thoughts on these shoes verses the Gladiators verses the Marathons? Not sure the difference between D and E and what I should be looking at.

Thanks again for your help.

Jonathan
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Old 03-19-2015, 12:39 PM   #30
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Hi Guys,

The service guy at Adventure RV also gave me a quote for Tow Max Load D(?) 127.00 each and also Tow Max Load E(?) for 134.00 each. Your thoughts on these shoes verses the Gladiators verses the Marathons? Not sure the difference between D and E and what I should be looking at.

Thanks again for your help.

Jonathan
Some things to consider when selecting a brand, and Load Range.

What is the warranty? Where do you have to go to get warranty service? Does you no good if there is only one location and you are 300 miles away.

LR-D vs LR-E is only telling you the max load capability of the tire when inflated to the associated pressure.
LR-D are usually 65 psi and LR-E are usually 80 psi with the LR-E having higher load capacity at the 80 psi but identical capacity to the LR-D if you only inflate to 65psi.

Do you know your actual tire loads when the RV if fully loaded?
If not what about the scale reading when you weigh each axle individually?

It is suggested that your capacity should exceed the actual load by at least 15%.

On multi-Axle trailers I also strongly recommend you run the pressure on the tire sidewall to lower the internal forces that are trying to tear the tire apart from the inside out.

For $28 I would go with LR-E and run 80 but still I would confirm the actual tire load.

I have written extensively on the topic of weight and special considerations for trailers. You can Google my ID if you wish to see some of my info.
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Old 03-19-2015, 01:52 PM   #31
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Thanks Tireman9!!!

I'll have to ask about the warranty on the tires. One thing I did find after I hit send on my last post, and maybe you can confirm:

Load E are 10 ply and Load D are 8 ply. Apparently the more ply the better the performance/handling???? The price difference is not that much between the two.

Our trailer unloaded is about 3900#. We travel very light, all tanks empty and our cargo couldn't be over 150# including what's in the tow vehicle. And I'll never exceed 63mph for any length of time.

The GYM I have now I keep inflated to 65PSI, so I am guessing that those are D load.

I will check out your tire info. Thanks again for all that.

Jonathan
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Old 03-19-2015, 02:22 PM   #32
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Load E are 10 ply and Load D are 8 ply. Apparently the more ply the better the performance/handling???? The price difference is not that much between the two.

Our trailer unloaded is about 3900#. We travel very light, all tanks empty and our cargo couldn't be over 150# including what's in the tow vehicle. And I'll never exceed 63mph for any length of time.


Jonathan
The ply rating are just that. The tire has a rating of 10 ply and may not actually have 10 plys in the tire. It is an indication of load rating. A 10 ply tire will handle more load than an 8 ply tire. Use the actual load rating on the side wall of the tire. Usually this is specified at max pressure. Typically the manufacturer will have load ratings at less pressure on a website so you can adjust if you wish.

Travel light my friend however buy tires (or other running gear parts) for the most possible load ever to be expected. Add to the unloaded weight (that you got by taking the trailer across the scales - not the manufacturers data) the weight of all tanks. For this you don't need to weigh the trailer with full tanks. use 8.4 pounds for every gallon of fresh/waste or black/grey water tank capacity. Full propane tanks and the rest of your gear. You could subtract the tongue load if you wanted. I don't and it just adds some safety to the exercise.

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Old 03-19-2015, 02:35 PM   #33
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Action, thanks again for your input. Man, I'm learning more about this stuff everyday! Sad thing is now I feel more informed than some service people I've talked with the past few weeks!!!
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Old 03-19-2015, 04:47 PM   #34
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Sad thing is now I feel more informed than some service people I've talked with the past few weeks!!!
You may find out how widely true this statement is ....

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Old 03-19-2015, 06:26 PM   #35
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Just to completely confuse you:

We generally install Michelin P235/75R x 15" LTX tires on 19's and have never had an issue with them. They ride quite a bit smoother than the Trailer tires and they never go out of balance or get shifted belts.

We are currently testing Pirelli Scorpion 235/75R x 15 LT Load range "D" tires. Mainly we are testing these to see how they stand up in a tandem axle application. On a single axle there should be no issue and they have a higher load capacity if that makes you feel more comfortable.

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Old 03-20-2015, 09:03 AM   #36
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The ply rating are just that. The tire has a rating of 10 ply and may not actually have 10 plys in the tire. It is an indication of load rating. A 10 ply tire will handle more load than an 8 ply tire. Use the actual load rating on the side wall of the tire. Usually this is specified at max pressure. Typically the manufacturer will have load ratings at less pressure on a website so you can adjust if you wish.

Travel light my friend however buy tires (or other running gear parts) for the most possible load ever to be expected. Add to the unloaded weight (that you got by taking the trailer across the scales - not the manufacturers data) the weight of all tanks. For this you don't need to weigh the trailer with full tanks. use 8.4 pounds for every gallon of fresh/waste or black/grey water tank capacity. Full propane tanks and the rest of your gear. You could subtract the tongue load if you wanted. I don't and it just adds some safety to the exercise.

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If I may make slight modification to your post.

"Ply Rating" is an outdated phrase. I remember working on Truck tires back in 1969 and the talk then was "6 for 10 ply rating" which meant there were 6 actual layers of Nylon body ply that had a total strength of 10 layers of old cotton cord. As technology in materials improved and with the introduction of Radial tires the actual number of layers or "ply" got lower and lower and today we have many radial tires with only one or two "ply" of Polyester or even Steel that provide sufficient strength to hold the air pressure of 65 or 80 or sometimes over 100 psi.

Since it is the air pressure at tire air volume that holds up the load, that is the critical number needed when discussing tire load capacity So a tire with 80 psi has greater load capacity than a tire with 65 psi. This is also why a larger tire has more load capacity even when the "Ply Rating" is the same.

The problem with using the RV assembler's weight is that it no only leaves out the water and propane but also clothes, food, tools, books etc. Few people have ever gone through the exercise of weighing every item the load into their RV but it is usually much greater than the "guess" they make.
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Old 03-20-2015, 09:07 AM   #37
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Just to completely confuse you:

We generally install Michelin P235/75R x 15" LTX tires on 19's and have never had an issue with them. They ride quite a bit smoother than the Trailer tires and they never go out of balance or get shifted belts.

We are currently testing Pirelli Scorpion 235/75R x 15 LT Load range "D" tires. Mainly we are testing these to see how they stand up in a tandem axle application. On a single axle there should be no issue and they have a higher load capacity if that makes you feel more comfortable.

Andrew T
Andrew I hope you do the appropriate "De-Rating" of the load when you put a P-type tire in trailer or SUV/Truck service. The formula is
Capacity on a trailer or LT = P-tire capacity / 1.10
so you loose about 10%.
This is part of the published load guides.
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Old 03-20-2015, 09:17 AM   #38
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My head is spinning.....
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Old 03-20-2015, 09:43 AM   #39
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That's cuz you have a trailer on your head.

To stop the spinning:
Take the trailer off your head
Tow it to a scale in as if you were going to camp load
Have it weighed
Tow it home
Go inside the trailer
Grab and adult beverage
Sit on your goucho
Then enjoy a cold one

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