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Old 06-09-2019, 11:19 AM   #21
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yes , Georgia
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My story:
I had cheap walmark tires and a crooked axle or crooked hub. The tire wore like that. I put on GY Endurance tires and after thousands of miles (20,000 or so)never saw the wear again on the tire at that hub. Cheap tires, like walmark or marathon, really are that bad.
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Old 06-09-2019, 01:41 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Powerarrangr View Post
Hi all, hope everyone is 'streaming smoothly!

I've encountered an extremely uneven wear pattern on one of my 2015 GYMs. Pictured is the right front tire on my 2015 25' FC. This tire, and its mate on the other side of the axle are original to the coach and have approximately 50,000 miles. The mate does not show this uneven wear; it looks more like the 'good' section of the bad tire in the pictures. Both tires were never rotated and are being replaced.

This was discovered after I completed an 1,800 mile trip from DePew, OK to Gainesville, GA and back. All highway miles, running at 60-65 MPH. It's a miracle that I didn't have a blowout on this trip!

In the pictures, my hand is on the outside facing sidewall of the tire.

Am I looking at an axle problem or could it just be a bad tire? To me it looks like a suspension issue, but I replaced the shocks late last year and they appear to be in good shape. The wheels turn smoothly and no brakes are dragging as far as I can tell. All four wheels have Centramatic balancers installed (I know, not recommended for Nev-R-Lube bearings) and the bearings appear to be in good shape.

Suggestions appreciated!
You are lucky! Replace both tires and replace every 3-5 years. Regardless of mileage.
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Old 06-09-2019, 02:51 PM   #23
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I believe the baldness is from beginning tread separation. Centermatics are BBs and can't lockup. They will only compensate for 3-4 ozs. of weight differences. All those different wear patterns are typical of the GYM tires. Just changed out 6 Michelins and the wear pattern was perfectly smooth after 6 years.
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Old 06-10-2019, 01:15 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by guskmg View Post
I believe the baldness is from beginning tread separation. Centermatics are BBs and can't lockup. They will only compensate for 3-4 ozs. of weight differences. All those different wear patterns are typical of the GYM tires. Just changed out 6 Michelins and the wear pattern was perfectly smooth after 6 years.
guskmg

Don't know how a Centermaticor any balance system can prevent rapid wear from a Belt Separation.
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Old 06-10-2019, 08:50 PM   #25
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No argument here. My experience has been that once tread separation starts it progresses very rapidly. Centermatic can only compensate for the initial imbalance. That won't stop the separation. As separation progresses the separation expands the tire causing more out of balance. Then, if unchecked, the tread leave the carcus. I have watched tire pressure on the monitor slowly go down as a separation progressed. That was a Maxxis "E".
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Old 06-12-2019, 03:17 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jadatis View Post
Could it be that you replaced the wheel wrong when you did the chocks late last year.
If you lift the wheel off the ground and turn it around, you then see it hits the ground and half a turn further its off the ground.
If you did not already had it of after you saw the damage, seeing the pictures.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fwjumper View Post
From the FWIW department, I'm running our first test with Goodyear Endurance tires, load range E. As far as I know, they are the only ST tires made in the U.S. (You may think that is a good thing or not) I've got about 10,000 miles on them so far with no visible wear. I still use 15" wheels, although I have replaced all six aluminum wheels and I thought I would give Goodyear another try. I had my several "Marathon Moments" years ago. Wish you good luck!
I had wear like you show after repacking wheel bearings on my first trailers and not getting the axle nuts tight enough. The tires wore out extremely fast, less than 2000 miles.
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Old 06-19-2019, 09:27 PM   #27
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Thanks for all the replies! This has been a very interesting discussion and I appreciate everybody taking time to share their ideas and experience.

So after doing a little digging I found out that there's really nothing 'prime' about Primewell tires. They're not a Bridgestone product at all, not sure where I got that information. Just another cheap-ish Chinese made tire.

My Primewells are in fact ST tires; load range E with a max inflation pressure of 80 PSI, similar to the Endurance. They're holding up well and have given me no problems, but I'll keep a close eye on them as I should.

So I think, and the tire guys agreed, that it's plain old belt separation; typical Marathon failure. I never noticed because it's possible that the failure occurred near the end of the trip. Had it occurred sooner I might have caught it and swapped in the spare (or had a catastrophic failure of the tire). Like others have said, I got lucky.

Since the Goodyear Endurance seems to be the best option, I went ahead and had two installed for the front axle. The Primewells on the rear axle are only a year old and will stay in place for now. The Airstream is still on cribbing and will remain so for awhile yet, so I can't give a report on them right away. I'm sure they'll be fine.

All of the tires had increased wear on the outer edge of the tread so I may call the Mothership soon for an axle alignment appointment this fall when I head to the East coast. Maybe someone knows a reputable Airstream service center around the Oklahoma City/Tulsa area?
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Old 06-20-2019, 06:53 AM   #28
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If you want axle service, then OK is the place to do it. Because of the high farm population the result is high knowledge and practical application of trailer axle knowledge - much harder to find on the east coast.

End of thread bonus-
Generally on axles:
torsion axles can be adjusted if they are bolted on crooked. Also can be re-welded on straight. If they are bent they can be bent back by a very practiced mechanic, but it will weaken the steel to do this. Usually it is the hub or short swing-arm that gets bent, not the axle beam, and these cannot be fixed, but some can be replaced. Torsion axle cross members are filled with rubber and cannot be welded on, just the mounting surface can be welded.

Leaf spring axles are much easier to work on, much cheaper, and have many separate parts so replacing just the bad part is easy and cheap, and there are a few places to look for out-of-adjustment issues. 3,500 lb load and under axles are so cheap that it is easier to just replace the whole axle (axle and hubs) than to do much thinking. Worst case is having new brackets welded on the frame if the originals are too bent.

Also, axles have a upward bow to them. This is called preload. When weight is added the bow becomes a straight line. If the axle were a straight line to start with and you add weight then it would be a downward bow and cause the wheels to tip in.
Your unloaded axle should cause the top of the wheels to tip out (which would cause outer tire wear), but with the intended weight the wheels should sit as straight up and down as intended to do and have even tire wear.
So, putting a 9,000 axle on a 3,000 loaded trailer is wrong and will cause tire wear on the outside (and if a torsion axle the torsion spring will hardly ever go up and down thus causing the tire to do all the suspension work), and likewise a 2,500 lb axle on a 9,000 lb trailer will just bottom out (on the torsion axle), and on both torsion and springs it will be very weak and both will bow down causing inside tire wear, that is, until the axle breaks.
Correct axle choice matters.
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Old 06-20-2019, 07:30 AM   #29
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let me just say this.

Do Not take your trailer to Jackson Center for any axle alignment.

I took mine there originally and they did nothing. I called them and asked where I could get the axles aligned? They sent me to Gaumers.

The axles have to be bent at the axle tube to align and that requires heavy equipment and knowledge of cause and effect of each action. it is not a trial and error operation.
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Old 06-20-2019, 08:05 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Powerarrangr View Post
Hi all, hope everyone is 'streaming smoothly!

I've encountered an extremely uneven wear pattern on one of my 2015 GYMs. Pictured is the right front tire on my 2015 25' FC. This tire, and its mate on the other side of the axle are original to the coach and have approximately 50,000 miles. The mate does not show this uneven wear; it looks more like the 'good' section of the bad tire in the pictures. Both tires were never rotated and are being replaced.

This was discovered after I completed an 1,800 mile trip from DePew, OK to Gainesville, GA and back. All highway miles, running at 60-65 MPH. It's a miracle that I didn't have a blowout on this trip!

In the pictures, my hand is on the outside facing sidewall of the tire.

Am I looking at an axle problem or could it just be a bad tire? To me it looks like a suspension issue, but I replaced the shocks late last year and they appear to be in good shape. The wheels turn smoothly and no brakes are dragging as far as I can tell. All four wheels have Centramatic balancers installed (I know, not recommended for Nev-R-Lube bearings) and the bearings appear to be in good shape.

Suggestions appreciated!
5 yrs old...junk...balancers won’t hurt the never lube bearings
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Old 06-20-2019, 08:54 AM   #31
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To my opinion, the chinese ST tires are not the issue here.
The alignment and mayby placing the wheel wrong when doing the chocks, is what courced the damage.

In another topic here, I discovered that newer AS tandem-axle trailers have as exeption to the TT rule , tires with comfortable reserve.
Even that much that the upper border is reached, when putting 65 psi advice in,where rivets tramble loose.

Other TT brands only have yust enaugh maxload of tires for 65mph, that a bit more speed or load, or a bit lower pressure then adviced, brings it over the overheating border. Then cheap tires used by the TT maker, get a bad name.

In Europe 6 years for tires used on TT is common, and even we Dutch think that they can last longer.
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