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Old 12-28-2014, 08:50 PM   #21
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I use only tires made for trailers on our Airstreams. Make seems to be far less important than load range, axle alignment, balance, air pressure and age.

Only my own findings.


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Old 12-28-2014, 10:15 PM   #22
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I sold tires at Sears for 8 years. Some of the best tires made are Michelins because of bead technology, compounds, design, etc. and I seem to remember even Michelin recommending minimum of 4 years and a max of 6. Unless you drive a lot, stay away from 90K to 100K tires as they usually "age out" before they "wear out" My guess a 50K or 60K tire will do but since trailer tires are "ST" many have no mileage warranty. Sunshine on sitting trailers' tires ages the surface compounds. Cover them. Tires have compounds (juices) which keep a tire viable as you use them and just sitting actually ages tires. Remember the 4 keep tires safe rules ( 1) inflation - remembering every 10 degrees ambient temperature is a 3 pound change of pressure in your tires. Most of us hate the TPMS system which sets a code on your dash in the morning. As the tire is driven and/or the day gets warmer the code light goes out. Never air a cold tire to max pressure early in the morning. ( 2) overloading tires builds heat, the primary tire killer (3) ST tires are speed rated usually 65 MPH and while you will exceed that at interstate sustained 75 MPH cheap tires can overheat. (4) High ambient temperature on very hot days say 100 degrees and over is tough on tires. Cross deserts in the morning and slow down. On single axle trailers which call for 6 ply , buy 8 ply and make sure your spare matches (cover the spare if outside) I gutted my single axle 22' 1958 Caravanner down to 2180# (2280# loaded) but still keep most things in the back of my Escalade EXT and I run 8 ply at 2150# per tire so I'm close to my 4400# axle. Since your Sport is 3515# base and can load 985# more you could be 4500# which is your axle rating. A max'ed out axle, if you ever tow that heavy, means you want some "extra" cushion (LOL) from tires. I'd guess yours are 15" rims and 225 wide tires. Suggest 3 new 22575D15 (bias ply) rated @ 2540#@ 65psi or best 22575R15 Load range E @ 2830# @ 80 psi each and are radials. The latter somewhat forgiving and on bad roads a must. I'd error on the side of Load E for the single axle but as pressure decreases your subject to tail waggle. Balance all 3. Plan $500. Too bad no Michelins available. Go Maxxis 80008, polyester cord ( Kevlar would be better) with nylon cap, 2 steel belts, made in Taiwan ( better than mainland China) Load E 225/75/R15 ST and run @ 65psi with a Reese Straightline ( dampens tail wobble). Make sure OEM rims will handle 80 psi and use high pressure valve stems ( they bolt in - not just pulled thru the hole type). You could run interstates @ 75 MPH+ ( I never said it) but some state " smokie the bears" will check your tires and discuss the ST speed max of 65 MPH industry standard. There are Tire Rack and Goodyear service bulletins you might copy and show the officer for 66 MPH to 75 MPH but they are written above the 8th grade reading level so allow an extra 20 minutes per encounter. I always like to darken an area of the tread, raise the rig and lower it on a piece of white paper. Crown in the center is premature wear and dish in the center likewise for wear but the latter can cause over heating as it may actually be underinflation. Do this "on ball" and set for road travel and loaded per normal. You now not only know the time- you know how the clock was built. lrahnmajusafret@gmail.com NOT EXACTLY A QUICK REPLY
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Old 12-29-2014, 04:54 AM   #23
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Just some info on tire failures.

First is that many things can puncture a tire and many of those will be undetectable AFTER the tire fails - and while the vast majority of punctures can be detected before the loss of pressure has caused damage, some will not be detected. The result may be misinterpreted as a "defect caused" failure. Just be aware that many tire failures are the result of punctures and not the result of things the tire manufacturer has control of.

ANY tire can get punctured - and there's no predicting when that will happen. It is entirely random - and it is quite possible to have a series of puncture related failures in short succession.

Unlike a car, where the driver can hear and feel a tire going down, a tire going down on a trailer is largely undetectable. It can take as little as a hundred feet for a tire to deflate and become damaged beyond repair. Driving further can cause damage to the vehicle as the tire breaks apart.

To help reduce the odds of this happening to you I recommend the following.

1) Check the inflation pressure before every major tow - both the trailer and the tow vehicle. - and at least once a day when towing.

2) Before every tow, check the tire for bulges by rubbing your hads around the circumference of the tread (Wear gloves!). If you detect a bulge, STOP and change the tire. It takes only a few hundred miles for a tire bulge to go from detectable to catastrophic failure.

3) Do your homework. If you haven't weighed your trailer - do so. Check the weight against the load carrying capacity of the tires - and be sure to account for side to side and front to rear load variation. Also account for fully loaded conditions if you don't weigh the trailer that way.

Also, do a pressure build up test on your tires. Measure them first thing in the morning and an hour after towing. The difference should be less than 10%. If it is more you need to do something to fix it - slow down, change load ranges, tire size, or reduce the load. If the difference is over 15%, you need to action IMMEDIATELY!
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Old 12-29-2014, 06:19 AM   #24
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I am for putting car and light truck tires on Airstreams only. For high center of gravity trailers, ST tires might be better. Manufactures' don't really care if a trailer tires fail because they are not supposed to be passengers on trailers so their liability is much less. As a result, many of these ST tires are substandard and have little or no quality control. They are also made lighter weight and have higher operating pressures. The 65 MPH max speed rating reflects this. If you have a heavy fat newer trailer put the 16 inch rims on it and use the E rated LT tires, otherwise use the 235/75-XL15 tires which are good to about 2000lb each. I plan on putting ST tires on my junk trailer which I don't care about and won't cost me $1000's to fix if a tire blows out. I expect 6 yrs is about right on tire lifetimes. The only good thing about ST tires is most of them have UV stabilizers in the rubber that make them look new after 10 plus years of sitting outside.

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Old 12-29-2014, 07:21 AM   #25
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In the world or RV trailer manufacturing it’s each individual RV trailer manufacturer’s decision and responsibility to select and fit tires to each unit they build. The major tire manufacturers will not often, if ever, dispute the vehicle manufacturer’s tire selections and fitments..

The RV trailer manufacturer can always earmark other tire fitments to replace the original equipment tires. It is done with notations in each individual trailer’s owner’s manual.

Individual trailer owners opting to use replacement tires of another design differing in construction from the OE tires should always seek recommendations from the trailer’s manufacturer. Recommendations to do so from a tire retailer is not valid and would be disputed should a warranty adjustment be sought.

Should a RV trailer manufacturer fit models 1XXX with ST tires and model 2XXX with LT tires would not be justification to use both (ST-LT) on either model.

Good food for comments.

There are a couple of posters in this forum with extensive tire industry experience. However they are often reluctant to post valid industry standards. Maybe it’s because they would be quoting from confidential publications that I do not have access to.

I do know this. The major tire manufacturers in this country are taking a long hard look at tire misapplications and it’s starting to show-up in their tire warranty documents.


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Old 12-29-2014, 09:46 AM   #26
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Good Morning, Baldwin
I'm in the same boat with my 2010 20ft FC....both of our rigs have a single axle, and we both put on a lot of miles. Following the 5 year rule espoused on this and other AS forums I'll spend the money this spring and upgrade to a new set of 16" wheels and LT Michelin tires (although the Goodyear Marathons still looks excellent). Stay safe. jon
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Old 12-29-2014, 02:26 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by BigButtUgly View Post
I sold tires at Sears for 8 years. Some of the best tires made are Michelins because of bead technology, compounds, design, etc. and I seem to remember even Michelin recommending minimum of 4 years and a max of 6. Unless you drive a lot, stay away from 90K to 100K tires as they usually "age out" before they "wear out" My guess a 50K or 60K tire will do but since trailer tires are "ST" many have no mileage warranty. Sunshine on sitting trailers' tires ages the surface compounds. Cover them. Tires have compounds (juices) which keep a tire viable as you use them and just sitting actually ages tires. Remember the 4 keep tires safe rules ( 1) inflation - remembering every 10 degrees ambient temperature is a 3 pound change of pressure in your tires. Most of us hate the TPMS system which sets a code on your dash in the morning. As the tire is driven and/or the day gets warmer the code light goes out. Never air a cold tire to max pressure early in the morning. ( 2) overloading tires builds heat, the primary tire killer (3) ST tires are speed rated usually 65 MPH and while you will exceed that at interstate sustained 75 MPH cheap tires can overheat. (4) High ambient temperature on very hot days say 100 degrees and over is tough on tires. Cross deserts in the morning and slow down. On single axle trailers which call for 6 ply , buy 8 ply and make sure your spare matches (cover the spare if outside) I gutted my single axle 22' 1958 Caravanner down to 2180# (2280# loaded) but still keep most things in the back of my Escalade EXT and I run 8 ply at 2150# per tire so I'm close to my 4400# axle. Since your Sport is 3515# base and can load 985# more you could be 4500# which is your axle rating. A max'ed out axle, if you ever tow that heavy, means you want some "extra" cushion (LOL) from tires. I'd guess yours are 15" rims and 225 wide tires. Suggest 3 new 22575D15 (bias ply) rated @ 2540#@ 65psi or best 22575R15 Load range E @ 2830# @ 80 psi each and are radials. The latter somewhat forgiving and on bad roads a must. I'd error on the side of Load E for the single axle but as pressure decreases your subject to tail waggle. Balance all 3. Plan $500. Too bad no Michelins available. Go Maxxis 80008, polyester cord ( Kevlar would be better) with nylon cap, 2 steel belts, made in Taiwan ( better than mainland China) Load E 225/75/R15 ST and run @ 65psi with a Reese Straightline ( dampens tail wobble). Make sure OEM rims will handle 80 psi and use high pressure valve stems ( they bolt in - not just pulled thru the hole type). You could run interstates @ 75 MPH+ ( I never said it) but some state " smokie the bears" will check your tires and discuss the ST speed max of 65 MPH industry standard. There are Tire Rack and Goodyear service bulletins you might copy and show the officer for 66 MPH to 75 MPH but they are written above the 8th grade reading level so allow an extra 20 minutes per encounter. I always like to darken an area of the tread, raise the rig and lower it on a piece of white paper. Crown in the center is premature wear and dish in the center likewise for wear but the latter can cause over heating as it may actually be underinflation. Do this "on ball" and set for road travel and loaded per normal. You now not only know the time- you know how the clock was built. lrahnmajusafret@gmail.com NOT EXACTLY A QUICK REPLY

nice reply BUT every so often you need to put a SPACE.. it hard a h@ll to read a 50 sentence paragraph with NO space.
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Old 12-30-2014, 05:36 AM   #28
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......There are a couple of posters in this forum with extensive tire industry experience. However they are often reluctant to post valid industry standards. Maybe it’s because they would be quoting from confidential publications that I do not have access to........
With all due respect, I do not think this is true. Both Tireman9 and I have been pretty open about the industry standards - and if I remember my legal work correctly, the term "industry standards" has a specific meaning that applies to real world situations, so they can not be secret in any form.

As an example of an industry standard, I submit the recommendation that when replacing only 2 tires on a 4 wheeled vehicle, the new tires should go on the rear.

Another would be replacing tires simply because of age - although the exact time limit seems not to be consistent. I have heard anywhere from 6 to 10 years - and my interpretation of that is (and I want to emphasize that this is my interpretation) is that in hot climates the limit is 6 years and in cold climate the limit is 10 years.

But, BlackAces, perhaps you meant something like proprietary information or trade secrets - and those, of course, vary from company to company and since Roger and I worked for different companies, we would certainly know things that would be considered proprietary or trade secrets - BUT - not only do I think that those would be of little value to any of the discussions being held here, I also think most are peculiar to the company we worked for and might not have validity for other companies.

If you have a question that you'd like the answer to, please ask away. If the information you seek is proprietary, I'm sure both Roger and I will tell you so, but I am also sure we both will try to give you some insight into why the information is proprietary AND then pass on whatever information we can so you get the jist of things.

Example? How about the failure rates of ST tires vs LT tires? Neither Tireman9, nor myself worked for companies that produced both. Niether of us would know what both are. I don't know about Roger, but I was privy to that information for LT tires (for the company I worked for). I was also privy to the changes made to LT tires (and P tires, too!) over the years, and what effect they had.

Want a feel for what the failure rate was? Dr. Sanjay Govindjee, of the University of California - Berkley, was asked by Firestone to analyze the data surrounding the Firestone ATX and Wilderness AT. The report is dated Jan 30, 2001.

Here's a quote: " Overall, it is noted that the problem at hand is rather complex, the failure rates are fractions of a percent, and thus determining a single cause for the tire failures is an unrealistic expectation."

Note that he said "failure rates are fractions of a percent". I interpret that to mean a half or a quarter, or some value in that vicinity - and not anything near a percent, or anything in the tenths of a percent, as he would have used different words. This lines up very closely to the values of the worst performing tires for the company I worked for. I have confidence I have correctly identified the actual failure rate for these tires.

But these are P type tires, and those failure rates were lower than LT type tires. Also, 14 years has elapsed since the report was written and the tires this report is about were produced before that. In other words, the failure rates of tires produced today are significantly lower than the tires being analyzed in that report.

What to takeaway from that bit of information? That it is quite possible for someone to not experience a problem with a particular type of tire, even though he has used multiple sets.
(Remember we are talking about current failure rates much less than a fraction of a percent.)

It is also possible for someone to experience repeated problems since the number of tires in the marketplace is so huge. I wouldn't want to be that guy, but I have to recognize that even with low failures rates, the possibility exists.

Does this help?

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Old 12-30-2014, 05:45 AM   #29
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Relative to the Firestone issue mentioned above. I, also, do not work for the automaker which was subject to that issue. But as an industry "insider", I always felt there was something about that tire/vehicle combination which led to a more troublesome result when a blowout occurred. There was something unique about the geometry and physics of that vehicle which made it very unstable when a blowout occurred that was not present when the same tire failure occurred on other vehicles. I don't think the complete story was ever made public. I do find it interesting that that vehicle underwent significant design changes after the issue...maybe it was in the works already, but I am "professionally" suspicious.
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Old 12-30-2014, 06:16 AM   #30
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Inspection of tires at each stop is always a good practice and one that is seldom used. You can see a lot of problems looking and feeling of tires. I have found several leaks from nails etc just by looking at tires and how much sag they have. Also pressures will tell you a lot. If 3 are all the same and one is lower there is a good chance there is a nail in that low tire. Also, I have found nails in tires that were not low just by looking at tires. Maybe this is a talent of my ADD nature.

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Old 12-30-2014, 07:28 AM   #31
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ADD or not, it is very good practice. Peace, jim
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Old 12-30-2014, 07:49 AM   #32
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Hi, I didn't read every post as I tend to bypass the extremely long winded ones. I had two tires develop small sidewall bubbles on them, one each, at just over three years. The other two lasted seven years and were starting to separate. None of my tires were worn out or had any cracks in them. I visually check my tires at every rest stop, every gas stop, and every camp ground. Remember "New doesn't mean good" and a new tire can pop too. I'll say that seven years is the time limit for tires. Also, when tires are mounted correctly, most of them will have the DOT code on the inside.
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Old 12-30-2014, 03:26 PM   #33
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We have a 2010 22' Sport. We will be starting our fifth camping season month after next with a trip to Tucson from Boise. We have about 23,000 miles on our tires. Our Airstream Dealer Service Manager advised us to get new tires before we head south in Feb. She does not sell tires so she had no ax to grind from that standpoint. I've always read that we should replace our tires every 7 years, regardless of miles on them. Do I really need new tires? Your thoughts, please and thanks.
I see since you posted this you haven’t been active with any of the responses. You seem to be just setting back and taking in all the information. So, I’ve come back here to post my opinion on the subject at hand.

Your question becomes more difficult to answer because you have not described the design of the tires you are considering for replacement.

I also have a problem because once a tire is selected to serve on RV trailer axles it becomes a trailer tire.

Because there is no clear cut method to determine tire aging the manufacturer that built them is the best source for replacement recommendations. Generally manufacturers of tires will have some sort of information of how long a particular design will last under normal conditions for that specific design. Those manufacturing ST tires are pretty consistent about their 3-5 year normal use recommendations with replacement taking place at the five year mark.

I watched two major trailer manufacturers usage of LT tires on their brands during 2004 & 2005 production years. Once the failure reports started they were very consistent with the reports from ST tires on like sized axles. (I’m not including that steel cased tire. It does terrible damage). This information is provided to support my stance that a tire used on trailer axles needs to be considered as a trailer tire.

Yes, you should replace your tires.


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Old 12-30-2014, 04:28 PM   #34
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My 2013 31 classic has Goodyear marathons with 14240 miles , so far they are fine , they are made in china like the rest of the ST tires..When these go south ,there is a set of sendel 16" wheels in my shop and I will install Michelins or Bridgestone , My old as had used up quite a few sets of these china tires,the best went 17500 miles....most are junk!!!
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Old 12-31-2014, 08:29 AM   #35
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A good friend of mine here had an Over The Road tire recapping business. In our discussions about tires in general, the light came on for me when I was told there were 3 types of tires for OTR trucks. Steering, Drive and Trailer. Each tire type had a significant purpose when it was designed and constructed. I am in no way a tire expert, but here is the layman's (my) take on the matter.
Steering tires are subject to greater sidewall loading than are Drive or Trailer tires.
Drive axle tires undergo linear torque loading during acceleration and braking
Trailer tires are designed to carry the lions share of up to 80,000 lbs GVW and must be made to handle the extra heat that would be generated from the road and the load.
That being said, tires are not created equally. When you buy a "cheap" tire, that's what you get. I can get two or three foreign tires for the price of a good US made tire, but that is a false economy. Peace of mind is priceless. I have Coopers on mine, and may go back with them or the Goodyear. I prefer American products. There are many good ones to choose from.

There is no defendable reason that the person who puts high mileage at freeway speeds shouldn't use a premium tire. Premium tires go boom too, but not as often as their cheap cousins.
BTW, at every fuel stop or break, I put my hand on the hubs to check for excess heat, and at least look the tires over. It's a good habit to get into and only takes a few minutes.
Happy New Year!!!!
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Old 12-31-2014, 09:55 AM   #36
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I was always told as a general rule to replace between 5 and 7 years. I've split the difference and always replaced at 6 years. I'm on my third set of tires now. Our 2001 Safari is nearing 14 years of age. The mileage you put on your tires and where you store your trailer can also come into play. I don't put more than about 3,000 miles per year on ours, and we store ours indoors in an area with a pretty mild climate. Those conditions have been in our favor. You live in a colder winter climate and probably run up more miles than we do, so at 5 years it's probably a good idea to get new tires. When you do, make sure to repack your wheel bearings and get your brakes checked too. This is all pretty reasonably priced preventative maintenance that should help you avoid problems on the road ahead.
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Old 12-31-2014, 11:24 AM   #37
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On all my big trucks, I have owned 5, my current one is a 99 t 800 kenworth ,with pup trailer and 7 axles on the ground.. With 1,355,000 miles. The steer tires are the same as the trailer tires, my drive tires are like a mild all season..and I have even run run this tread on the pup ,with no problems and never a tire failure,and there are no Chinese tires on this unit!!!. Also I will not run a recapped tire...
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Old 12-31-2014, 01:25 PM   #38
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Yes you can tell when you're running in recap country........gators all over the place.
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Old 12-31-2014, 01:50 PM   #39
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We have a 2005 19' Bambi, and I installed Michelin XPS Ribs (225/75x16, LR-E, 80 psi, made in Germany) in January 2011.

To date, the XPS Ribs have around 20,000 miles on them, towing at 55-60 mph; and the tread still looks new. Plus, we have had absolutely NO tire problems after switching to these LT tires.

I anticipate that I will have to replace them at age 6-7 years due to sidewall weather-checking and cracks; and most likely, less than half of the tread will be worn away from the anticipated 75,000 (cumulative total) miles we plan to put on them before they are replaced. Then, I think I can sell them to a landscaper, who can still get a little more use out of them on a light-duty utility trailer.

For me, the $285 per tire cost will be well-worth 6-7 years of trouble-free towing, versus the constant worry of blowouts and tread separations with 15" ST tires.

Continuing to run ST tires may have ended up a cost trade-off. However, after the additional expense of roadside assistance (to replace blown-out ST tires) and Airstream wheelwell repairs were added, not to mention the vacation hours wasted while broken down on the side of the road and waiting for tire replacements to arrive in small backwater towns, our tire-buying decision was easy.
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