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Old 04-23-2010, 05:51 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by TomW View Post
...While I got a kick out of this entire self-imposed task, I know most people could care less about the technique & actual number crunching. I will spare you except for one image:

Hey, Tom, is that an HP 41C(V/X) ? That brings back memories! Sweet post!

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Old 04-23-2010, 06:12 PM   #44
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Just to refresh your memory

Originally Posted by Action View Post
With all of that said, this tire is a great example of one that should be taken off the road, based on the cracks in the side wall...

See post one of this thread:


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Old 04-23-2010, 06:16 PM   #45
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Good eye

Originally Posted by DPeakMD View Post
Hey, Tom, is that an HP 41C(V/X) ? That brings back memories! Sweet post!
You're looking at a 41CX with a Math I pack, Machine Design Pack, and an HP-41 Advantage pack.

I just can't part with it - It still has the Mohr's Circle program I input key by key back in college.

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Old 04-23-2010, 06:32 PM   #46
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Thanks Tom. I have posted on that thread as well. So hope you get the new rubber soon. And yes I noticed the wood only side as well.

BTW I have a HP12C that I use daily. (I am in the mortgage biz) Most snicker because they consider it a dinosaur, and it works for me.

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Old 04-24-2010, 08:54 PM   #47
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A large weight requirement is the heavy spots of the tire carcass and the wheel aligning, so... often when large weights are called for a considerate mechanic will pull the schrader valve from the stem, break the bead and rotate the tire 120 or 180 and finish the balance.

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Old 04-24-2010, 09:04 PM   #48
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A counter balance weight 180 degrees from the heavy spot, still leaves a part of the circle untouched.

Each weight, the heavy spot or counter balance, effects only 150 degrees of the circle.

The best lead weight counter balances, is using 2 weights, 120 degrees away from the heavy spot. That then, provides an overlap that in turn provides a good balance for about 10,000 miles, as per Snap On.

We can balance the running gear to better than 1/10 of an ounce. But, that old Snap On equipment, is no longer made.

The Centramatics balances the complete circle, as shown in their video. That balancing system, also extends the mileage life of the tires, be it on a car, truck or trailer.

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Old 04-24-2010, 10:32 PM   #49
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Hi, since we all know that the tire/wheel combination can be balanced, and they still should be done. But the big un-known is the un-balanced brake drums, so we have Centramatics to take care of them. I have Centramatics on my trailer and my tires/wheels are machine balanced.
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Old 04-25-2010, 04:37 AM   #50
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TomW, I love your mathematical and scientific approach to tire balancing.

I tried to put Centramatics on my 67 Overlander a few years ago, but ran into the same problems as the original poster. They would not fit the factory wheels.

As an alternative, I put DynaBeads in my tires, and they get the job done with flying colors. The DynaBead organization has a recommended amount of beads to provide the amount of balancing needed for a particular tire size, but one can increase or decrease the amount as might be desirable.

The advantages of DynaBeads include the fact that they are very economical, they last as long as you want them to (you can even reuse them if you want to go to the trouble of doing so), and, Ta Da, the biggie, they provide compensating weight balancing on the very edges of the TIRES, not the much smaller wheel rims. So, any amount of weight from the DynaBeads provides a magnified balancing effect compared with the Centramatics. I'm sure you would have a field day figuring the differential.

The disadvantage of the DynaBeads is that it is recommended the owner use a special filtered valve stem/core, which theoretically prevents the beads from discharging out the valve when checking air pressure. However, the valve stem/core from DynaBeads is very cheap, and I have found using a regular valve stem/core actually works very well. I found this out when, ironically, I had one valve with the special filtered stem/core that stuck open. After fiddling with it, I finally replaced it with a regular non-filtered stem/core, and it's been working flawlessly ever since, with no observed discharge of beads upon checking air, using my PressurePro tire monitor, etc.

So, I would recommend DynaBeads for consideration.

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