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Old 06-21-2008, 09:55 AM   #29
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is the trailer level?
have you weighed the axles?
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Old 06-21-2008, 11:32 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by DKDarrow View Post
... hand test at each stop perhaps every 100 or so miles yesterday, to a hand touch heat test it would seem that the front trailer tires were both a bit warmer than the rear ones...
hi dk

from one regular user (who is no tire expert either) to another...

and having carried and used an infrared surface thermometer...

i can report that temps might be all over the place...

based on 'sunny side' alone the difference is often 20+ degrees.

i collected LOTS of tire temp data...

and the only consistents were the tv tires run a tad warmer than the trailer and the sunny side is MUCH warmer, even parked.

we all have different temp perception so how 'much' warmer is an issue,

3-5 degrees or 10-15 or >20 degrees might alter the whys and urgency 2 sort it out...

but, IF both fronts on the trailer are consistently warmer, here are some potential issues...

-bearing grease condition and amount of play or degree of tightness in the hubs...

-brake status, shoe drag or braking force, which may warm the fronts more under normal conditons...

-so measuring hub temps my add useful info, and with varied braking force...

-axle load, and the only real way to know this is to weigh EACH contact point...

-IF the ft axle is carrying 200lbs more than the rr that's enough 2 cause more heat, depending on how close to the rating that is...

-alignment and balance issues...

-if any of the hubs/wheels/tires or axles are out of balance or alignment this could cause greater tire heat, before wear issues are obvious

-the easiest issue to check is just how level the trailer is while towing, and often the 'low end' will result in warmer tires...

i'm sure there are other potential issues but these are the biggies...

cheers
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Old 06-21-2008, 10:21 PM   #31
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and the only consistents were the tv tires run a tad warmer than the trailer and the sunny side is MUCH warmer, even parked.

My experience also. The TV is nearly always 5-7F degrees hotter on a summer day; same for being parked, the sunny side is consistently higher, sooner. Trailer tires are run at (recommended) max pressure; truck at factory spec. The 100F days see temps of 120F-plus after braking easily, slowly from 63 mph.

My rear axle (tandem) carries more weight, but the temp variance is under 5-7F degrees.

My alignment was corrected before new tires were installed, and new bearings/races were also done (big truck tire/alignment shop). Brakes have checked out OK, but still need to perfect the data/information collection to be dead certain.

A shirt-pocket IR thermometer (got mine at GRAINGER) is a real boon to checking after leaving highway. I keep it on me while traveling, also checking other temps to look for what may be inconsistencies on items other than tires.
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Old 06-22-2008, 07:24 AM   #32
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Thanks for the thoughts guys.................

First thing I am gonna do is get an IR thermometer........will check the bearing temps, hub temps, and tire temps for comparison

We will be heading home next week, empty the trailer, and then check properly the axle weight distrubution. I have read of this on several other threads; but will probably be asking for your help and advice when that time comes.

The trailer does not ride level...............It is perhaps an inch or so lower on the front end............The TV is fine.......Have tried to adjust the trailer height by putting more chain links on the weight distrubtion system; but it doesnt really change anything............Hmmmmmm
that would cause the front tires to have more pressure on them and then the subsequent heat.............Perhaps I need to adjust the heighth of the ball in the reciever????? Raise it up a hole?????

I had the tires balanced upon installation.........

While here in Jacksonville before going towards home next week I dont see I can do much or can I???? I guess I could pull the reciever and make that change on the holes and get an IR thermometer to monitor the situation while towing it maybe 400 miles home in the summer heat.......................Thanks so much for the thoughts.......Dennis
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Old 06-22-2008, 09:12 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKDarrow View Post
First thing I am gonna do is get an IR thermometer........will check the bearing temps, hub temps, and tire temps for comparison

The trailer does not ride level...............It is perhaps an inch or so lower on the front end............The TV is fine.......Have tried to adjust the trailer height by putting more chain links on the weight distrubtion system; but it doesnt really change anything............Hmmmmmm
that would cause the front tires to have more pressure on them and then the subsequent heat.............Perhaps I need to adjust the heighth of the ball in the reciever????? Raise it up a hole?????

Dennis
After replacing 3 brake assemblies, replacing one inside bearing and repacking the bearings on those 3 axles, I noticed that all 3 registered 77 degrees after a 12 mile test run but the other axle (new bearings/brake assembly last Oct.) was registering 97 degrees. I pulled that drum and found not much grease in the inner bearing and a tight bearing clearance at that. I cleaned out the bearing, repacked it and put everything back together. I found that the castle nut snugged up by hand like had been done by a shop was a little too tight but if I backed off one flat of the nut then it approximated the slight clearance of the other 3 axles. I attribute the lack of grease and tight clearance to the 20 degree difference noted above. I would have never noticed this without the IR thermometer.

By the way, my '86 Sovereign with Hensley Arrow hitch rides just a little low in the front. If I went to a 6" drop stinger (drawbar) then it would ride low in the rear. Go figure. It sure would be nice if Hensley would design a stinger you could adjust rather than selecting available stingers.
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Old 06-22-2008, 12:15 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by DKDarrow View Post
...While here in Jacksonville before going towards home next week I dont see I can do much or can I????...
yeah i'm always careful about modifications made while on the road...

still an ir therm is easy to purchase and if the temp difference isn't much...

waiting till at the home base only 400 miles away (to tweak the rig) isn't a big deal.

btw the ir therm i carry is part of a multimeter purchased at sears...

i think it is a fluke made gadget branded craftsman...

having the dc/ac testing gadget and the thermometer in ONE tool has worked well.

so IF u are low 1 inch in the front, thats is certainly enough to alter the axle loads and tire temps....

adjusting the stinger/hitch ball would be the starting point, as i understand it.

hey davidz71...

i HAD the same issue with the haha, too high with a 4, n too low with a 6...

the solution i reached (since they don't offer an adjustable stinger) was to ADD on leaf to the truck...

NOW a 6 fits PERFECTLY...

another option would be to add a spacer to the rear spring stack to raise the truck 1 inch.

this is moving away from dk's thread topic, but i'll be posting this info in more detail elsewhere soon...

cheers
2air'
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Old 06-22-2008, 01:39 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman View Post
hey davidz71...

i HAD the same issue with the haha, too high with a 4, n too low with a 6...

the solution i reached (since they don't offer an adjustable stinger) was to ADD on leaf to the truck...

NOW a 6 fits PERFECTLY...

another option would be to add a spacer to the rear spring stack to raise the truck 1 inch.

cheers
2air'
Thanks 2air, That's an idea.
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Old 06-23-2008, 06:34 AM   #36
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2Air............Thanks for the thoughts and really excellent advice. I ALWAYS find your replies patient, right on, well thought out, and never in a manner that puts you in the "I know best" category.

As soon as I finish writing this am gonna go on line to find a IR here in Jville........Then after the fish over at the jetty quit biting this morning to go and get it...............

Currently have 2 mmeters so unless the one I find is a hum dinger deal will just try to find a stand alone.................

This thread has come a long way from tire selection; but I really thank ALL for their thoughts, concern, compassion, and patience............God Bless.........Dennis
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Old 06-23-2008, 09:25 AM   #37
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Quote:
we all have different temp perception so how 'much' warmer is an issue
This is a problem with many measures, I think. Folks don't know what precision is appropriate or how to interpret what they are measuring.

If I recall correctly, tire temperatures are not a worry until they get to 160F (maybe higher by 20F to 40F). In use, the temperatures should run between 110F to 140F or so. One key is to look for differences. If you can't easily explain a significant difference (e.g. sun exposure) then you need to figure out what is going on.

I don't think the tire temperature should be much influenced by hub or brake temperatures. I had a broken brake spring raise the hub temperature by 30F over the others but the tire still ran at 120F. I'd guess what and how you measure is also a factor.

What I am trying to figure out now is the difference between the bias ply Carlisle and the radial Towmasters. It appears the Towmasters are a bit smaller for the same numbers. Ride seems about the same. I haven't checked running temperatures yet.
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Old 06-23-2008, 10:13 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman View Post

i HAD the same issue with the haha, too high with a 4, n too low with a 6...

the solution i reached (since they don't offer an adjustable stinger) was to ADD on leaf to the truck...

NOW a 6 fits PERFECTLY...

another option would be to add a spacer to the rear spring stack to raise the truck 1 inch.

this is moving away from dk's thread topic, but i'll be posting this info in more detail elsewhere soon...

cheers
2air'
Will be interested to read your detailed description on the stinger height. I have the 2" stinger and it's too high and I'm like you need something btwn 4" and 6". It is a real pain mailing a heavy piece of metal back and forth to Hensley if I can't get it right.
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Old 06-26-2008, 05:52 PM   #39
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I have had horrible luck with D rated tires on my 25 Safari. During a recent trip from Tucson to Miami, I had two blowouts one on a Marathon less than two months old and one on a no name less than a year old. I inflate to 65 lbs, empty my holding tanks before every travel day and drive 65 mph or less. It was admittedly hotter than hell. The year before one of the Marathons (made in Canada) that came on my 2004
Safari blew up in Navajo land. I am lucky I guess, three blowouts no body damage.
Marathons are made in China and no better than the no name tires sold at every flybynight tire store at most every exit on the interstate down South.
I upgraded to E rated tires Carlises on one side and Maxxis on the other (I purchased them at different places after seperate blowouts. 1500 miles with no tire trouble--my fingers are crossed.
If you run at at 80 pounds there is no downside to E rated tires. Ride and handling are the same. More air pressure equals less flex. Less flex equals less heat. Stronger construction means more resistance to blowouts.
Take it from me, your D rated tires will fail in hot weather running for a few days on the interstate even if you do everything right. It remains to be seen how my E rated tires will do, but so far so good.
P.S. The bean counters at Airstream should get the message. On a premium travel trailer frequent blowouts are unacceptable. Airstream should spec tires which are safe and durable even if they cost a few dollars more.
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Old 06-27-2008, 06:37 PM   #40
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I have run flatbed trailers to and from Vermont and Oklahoma from 24000 lbs down to 2500 lbs for the last 30 plus years and Michelins are the only tires that I have had no probs with. Maybe I am just lucky but I have worn out 4 trucks and 3 trailers and after many days on the side of the road I learned my lesson and will not run any other tire but a Michelin.
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Old 06-29-2008, 08:52 PM   #41
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ST tires

The ST tire is a 65 MPH tire

The place to file a complaint is here:

ODI - Office of Defects Investigation

The more complaints the sooner the NHTSA will look in to this problem.
I have BF Goodrich Commercial T/As on the trailer, Michelin LTX on the tow vehicle (last month). What a difference in the ride.
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Old 07-07-2008, 02:48 PM   #42
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I know most of the discussion here is about Load Class D and E 15" tires, but I'm looking at getting four Carlilse ST215/75R14s (Class C) tires for my 22' CCD. I was told that the radial R14s stand up to the heat of high speed Interstate driving over the biased D14s. Has anyone heard this or is it just a sales pitch? Are they good quality? Made in China? Anyone had any experiences?
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