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Old 07-18-2013, 09:45 PM   #29
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Greg,

I made the switch to 16" Michelin LTX M/S after reading all of the horror stories. My GYM's were reaching 4 years old and I decided to replace them as the trailer had seen little use before I bought it. I did recover most of the cost of the new Sendel wheels when I sold my old wheels and tires via a Forums ad so the net financial investment was primarily in the tires.

We have about 7500 miles of trouble free miles on the 16" wheels and Michelin tires.

Was this the best move? Who knows. All I can say is so far so good. Of course I had no issues with the GYM's either during the 500 miles I used them before switching. I did have to add air to the GYM's. The Michelins hold the pressure for months before registering a decline.

Good luck with your decision.
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:07 PM   #30
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Good Year M's

Ahhhh Crapola!!

You guys are bringing back bad memories....see my attachment.
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:07 PM   #31
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[QUOTE=Jammer;1328455]No internal difference between ST and LT, just a difference in tread and in how they calculate capacity with LT using the more conservative calculation.
QUOTE]


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Old 07-18-2013, 10:22 PM   #32
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This is why I went to LT's

3 pictures all of belt slippage or separation. All caught before they let go. Two pictures of pairs of tires show belt slippage on E rated Maxxis tires. Tall tires are the failed ones. Tires were beginning their 4th season of use. Single tire picture is a D rated Marathon at the end of its 3rd season of use.

Maxxis tires were run at 80 psi, 60 mph top. Marathon at 65 psi, 60 mph top.

Jack
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Old 07-19-2013, 05:48 AM   #33
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I figure I will find a farmer that could use them on a hay wagon. I will avoid the tire disposal fee that way and a farmer gets better tires than they probably have on them. I will not sell 7 year old tires even if they do have lots of tread to someone to put on their TT.

I figured I was needing new tires anyway so the difference is probably about $200 on the 16" LT vs 15" ST. Hopefully will recover about 1/2-2/3 of the new wheels with the sale of the old ones. So all in I will be out an extra $400-$500 for the 16" LT upgrade. I can live with that.
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:25 AM   #34
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One may ask the question "why switch" if you have not had an issue with GYM or any other ST tire. But I have not yet heard of any first hand failures such as tread seperations of a LT tire. And there are many accounts of that damaging kind of thing with ST's.
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:03 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari-Rick View Post
Ahhhh Crapola!!

You guys are bringing back bad memories....see my attachment.
That is a Run Flat - a tire that was operated with little or no inflation pressure - usually caused by a puncture.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcanavera View Post
3 pictures all of belt slippage or separation. All caught before they let go. Two pictures of pairs of tires show belt slippage on E rated Maxxis tires. Tall tires are the failed ones. Tires were beginning their 4th season of use. Single tire picture is a D rated Marathon at the end of its 3rd season of use.

Maxxis tires were run at 80 psi, 60 mph top. Marathon at 65 psi, 60 mph top.

Jack
The first 2 photos look like belt leaving belt separations on tires with a cap ply. If that cap ply wasn't there, the top belt and the tread on top of it would have been thrown off (detached) and possibly damaged the fender area. This is NOT to say that having a cap ply guarantees this will not happen, only that it sometimes does not result in a thrown belt.

But that last photo is something completely different - and one that is commonly confused with a belt separation. It is a tread leaving belt separation - the true "tread separation". That is usually caused by some contaminant between the tread and the belt.

And before I go, I really dislike the term "slipped belt" as it seems to imply something that is not there. I could go into a long discussion about the derivation of the term, but suffice it to say, it is not being applied correctly. I make it a task to discourage its usage.
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Old 07-19-2013, 12:11 PM   #36
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I too am a firm believer of the "whatever makes you feel safe" line of thought.
I read all the GYM horror stories, and being a newbie, decided I didn't want to ever be in the position of having a blowout, and the resulting damage.
While I realize this can happen with any tire, the track record of the GYM's vs LT's is pretty self explanatory.
For ST lovers I have set & wheels, but no center caps. I put less than 50 miles on them towing my 2013 27' Flying Cloud home.
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Old 07-19-2013, 12:34 PM   #37
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I too am a firm believer of the "whatever makes you feel safe" line of thought.
I read all the GYM horror stories, and being a newbie, decided I didn't want to ever be in the position of having a blowout, and the resulting damage.
While I realize this can happen with any tire, the track record of the GYM's vs LT's is pretty self explanatory.
For ST lovers I have set & wheels, but no center caps. I put less than 50 miles on them towing my 2013 27' Flying Cloud home.
Same here I guess

Eb wheels and tires are going on at factory in my case
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:20 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CapriRacer View Post

That is a Run Flat - a tire that was operated with little or no inflation pressure - usually caused by a puncture.

The first 2 photos look like belt leaving belt separations on tires with a cap ply. If that cap ply wasn't there, the top belt and the tread on top of it would have been thrown off (detached) and possibly damaged the fender area. This is NOT to say that having a cap ply guarantees this will not happen, only that it sometimes does not result in a thrown belt.

But that last photo is something completely different - and one that is commonly confused with a belt separation. It is a tread leaving belt separation - the true "tread separation". That is usually caused by some contaminant between the tread and the belt.

And before I go, I really dislike the term "slipped belt" as it seems to imply something that is not there. I could go into a long discussion about the derivation of the term, but suffice it to say, it is not being applied correctly. I make it a task to discourage its usage.
Thanks for the terminology correction. Interesting that you picked up on the Maxxis tires having that cap ply. That was one of the selling points as to why I chose the Maxxis as my original replacement for the Marathons. I felt the cap might minimize the chance for belt separation. Supposedly that type of construction is common on European tires.

Jack
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:31 PM   #39
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Kosm10 - Tire failures by brand and type is one of favorite passions here on Forums.. Lots of older threads detailing issues with tires.. Here is another recent example of an ST Tire Tread/Belt "failure".. Discovered this under tire after rolling out of parking beside house last month and checking ahead of planned high temp freeway trip.. Tire 7 years old, with lots of tread, but just a tiny bit past end of useful life.. (These happen to be Carlisle ST from America's Tire/Discount Tire, but purchased to replace even worse failure of GYM tire in late 2006...)
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Old 07-20-2013, 06:57 AM   #40
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Kosm10 - Tire failures by brand and type is one of favorite passions here on Forums.. Lots of older threads detailing issues with tires.. Here is another recent example of an ST Tire Tread/Belt "failure".. Discovered this under tire after rolling out of parking beside house last month and checking ahead of planned high temp freeway trip.. Tire 7 years old, with lots of tread, but just a tiny bit past end of useful life.. (These happen to be Carlisle ST from America's Tire/Discount Tire, but purchased to replace even worse failure of GYM tire in late 2006...)

And just to help folks understand: That is a classic belt leaving belt separation. Notice the smooth area of the tread. A tell-tale sign. If you see this - even if there is no bulge, the tire is separating and needs to be removed immediately! Not a couple hundred miles down the road - IMMEDIATELY!!
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:36 AM   #41
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Question, one of my 3 year old GYM's may have something going on. The inner tread is at one level but the outer tread on both sides stands slightly higher, maybe as much as 1/8". Is this a sign of an internal problem?
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:42 AM   #42
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I only have the original GYM on mine. But I will replace them with any other brand soon.

My Dad had failures on GYMs and totaled a really nice bass boat. Three months later on BRAND new GYMs, totaled his SHasta camper.

I have had no problems myself, but the mental image of that bass boat shattered on the highway is enough...
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