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Old 08-24-2010, 11:15 AM   #1
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200 Miles GYM Bulge?

Airforums,

I value your insight on this picture.

The tire is on my tailgate and I placed my tire gage as a reference over the PROTRUDING BULGE, not an indentation. It is visible and easy to feel but challanging to photograph in the high noon light.

It's going back for an inspection hopefully today.

Thanks,

Gary
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Old 08-24-2010, 12:15 PM   #2
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that is a...

DAMAGED or defective tire,

replace it.

it LOOKS like it's been rollin' for more than 200 miles, but...

IF it only has 200 miles (more correctly has 9-10/32nds tread) and is UNDER 3 years (manufacture date)

SOME gy dealers will and SHOULD exchange it for new at little or no cost...

like this one (see posts #79 AND #80 below...)

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f438...tml#post556178

if the dealer SEEz obvious sidewall cutting/scuffs or trauma

they can/might suggest the tire is damaged rather than defective.

depends on the appearance and the customer/vendor relationship.

i have been told that gy is supporting DEFECT replacements LESS frequently now ...

but have NO PERSONAL experience to confirm this rumor.

cheers
2air'
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Old 08-24-2010, 12:20 PM   #3
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Yep.. sidewall separation.

That means air has found its way under the outer plys.

Time to replace.
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Old 08-24-2010, 12:47 PM   #4
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Doesn't look like there is much tread left. So the adjustment you recieve may be very small.

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Old 08-24-2010, 01:09 PM   #5
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I know the pic is a bit rough, but I assure you it is an outward bulge. I'll get a better pic later when the light is at a better angle.

I bought these tires, I know exactly where the rig was driven, I'm not expecting this at 200 miles. The mold spikes are still on the tread surface.

If I hit something and it caused this, well I guess anything is possible as some folks say, but someone has a long way to go on this idea. I don't jump curbs.

The tire pictured replaced this set of tires http://www.airforums.com/forums/f438...ter-65178.html

I hoped this was over, I'll have more later.
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Old 08-24-2010, 01:33 PM   #6
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I am still following all these tire threads - I am buying new axles, wheels and tires no later than next spring and I want to choose the right combination for my trailer. Don't want to buy and then find out I had really messed things up.
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Old 08-24-2010, 01:33 PM   #7
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No More GYM for me.

I won't buy any more GYM for my Safari or my TV and cars. Some of them do just fine but a large number fail. Reading this forum will shed light on the high degree of failure. To me it's like playing Black Jack at a Casino. Some people win but most don't. When mine went I was very lucky that my trailer was not damaged. Time to switch brands.....Tim
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Old 08-24-2010, 01:40 PM   #8
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Thakns for the link. So these are April 2010 built tires and gievn that I would bet you get darn near a 100% adjustment. The pic above only shows a partial tread pattern so I errored in my assumption.

Man the luck you are having! Don't go to any casinos.

Not knowing the tire size or inflation you used, was there a lot of reserve load capacity for those tires? Or are they being used close to the max?

The pic is of a failure. High load and high heat usually cause those failures in my experience.

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Old 08-24-2010, 03:19 PM   #9
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Action,
Trailer is close to tire limit by AS design, not by my overloading, not much reserve. I don't have the numbers right now. 65 PSI set with my NAPA truck gage, OCD type checking and I do have an infrared thermometer.

mwells4654
Consider looking into a TPMS, I'm making inquiries right now, cause this is spooky.

tkasten
I can't argue with you on that, I explained my situation in the earlier purchase post.

I'm going to tire shop right now.
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Old 08-24-2010, 05:35 PM   #10
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I wondered if this might be a concern. Not that you would over load the vehicle or the tires. I mention the loading because this is exactly the concern I have with a boat trailer. The tires are at their max load limit based on what was used by the manufacturer. In my case to keep the center of gravity low and allow for easier unloading of the boat into the water, 14" rims have been used. The max tire I can buy inflated to the max pressure allows me only 170 pounds of margin. Or as a ratio 2% cushion.

For both of us going to a larger rim diameter would allow a tire that would carry a greater load or have more cushion. However there is that issue with expense. Not only in rims, but new tires as well.

In my case I also have the added disadvantage of (by going this route for this unit) a less stable load when towing and the need for backing down the ramp further to unload my boat. I don't have much TV left to back down the ramp at this point.

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Old 08-24-2010, 06:36 PM   #11
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Action,

Its heavy, but I have not loaded it up for anything more than weekend trips, no water load carried. From the AS load sticker:
GVWR 10,300
UVW 8,029
H2O 504
Propane 60
Cargo 1,707
LRE Tire 2,540 each = 10,160


To All,

My retailer examined the tire and declared SIDEWALL SEPERATION we are working on my next move, cooperation so far.

The next time I get on the road, I hope to have data available and record it, but I ain't got no plans to be a servant to data collection, this is supposed to be fun, but I'm getting pretty good at jacking it up but no been there stickers to go with it!
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Old 08-24-2010, 07:06 PM   #12
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That pic hurts me to look at it. You are in the no fun zone! But you are getting a work out.

Some one told me long time ago, RV's are like humans, they gain weight as they age. It may fit, however you have a 3 yo rig.

I replied to your PM. Good luck!

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Old 08-24-2010, 08:34 PM   #13
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Long story short,,,,, If your tires are ST225x75x15 D get them changed out for load range E ones!
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Old 08-24-2010, 08:43 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r carl View Post
Long story short,,,,, If your tires are ST225x75x15 D get them changed out for load range E ones!
Just be sure your wheels can handle "D" rated tires. I made the same switch and Im keeping an eye on my alloys. The D rated tire has some stiff sidewalls and can cause a wheel to fail if not spec'd for it.

Vin
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