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Old 04-26-2010, 02:03 AM   #113
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1. the tire replaced in post #13 ALREADY had 30,000 miles on it.

2. it was replaced AT THE SAME TIME as the other 5, which also had 30,000 miles each...

3. THAT is how the thread title was developed (30,000 x 6)

4. at the time and later and NOW my conclusion is the small ASYMMETRICALLY worn patch...

5. was from the DRAGGING associated with SETTING up the disc brakes and controller (brakes LOCKED UP)...

in fact i'm sure of it, there was NO tread or belt separation, there was a WORN patch only, from DRAGGING the tire.

6. the tire in post 58/59 DID wear faster and the assumption was/is poor rubber compound.

that's the ONLY tire replaced from EITHER set for issues.

7. had ALL 6 worn at an accelerated pace, they ALL would have been replaced, based on WEAR and sooner.

8. so 1 tire out of 15 (i carry 2 spares) was replaced for a POSSIBLE defect (soft tread)...

over 5 years of towing and with 450,000 miles of use.

9. the tires/this trailer is NOT in "constant use",

the unit IS used ~200 nights yearly or about 12-15,000 miles annually, but it's also parked a lot.

10. U might think all car/truck tires last longer than 30 or 40k miles but that simply is NOT true.

many high performance or "grippy' tires are only good for 20k-30,000 miles and some much less.

there are a LOT of automobile and truck tires...

that DO NOT carry a mileage warranty of ANY sort, exactly for this reason.

i have owned expensive (200$+ each) tires that only lasted 12,000 miles...

and the current truck at ~80k is about to need a 3rd set of tires (40k for each set so far)

as matter of personal choice i AVOID tires advertised for "high mileage"

because they are generally CRAPPY at grip/cornering and braking...

OR lack snow/rain performance/excellence.

yes, my experience/feedback is rotation HELPS distribute wear...

and that ANY questionable tire should be replaced.

but folks have FLATS then tow on an UNDER inflated spare

and wonder why the OTHER tire fails (which is now OVERloaded)

ST tires are not speed rated to 65 mph, they are LOAD and temperature tested AT 65mph...

that is NOT the same thing as "speed rating" applied to P or LT tires, in fact it is very different.

THIS ISSUE and the MISinformation has been addressed in dozens of the OTHER tire bashing threads...

almost ALL of my towing is at an average speed of 72 mph and some of it at 80+mph...

i have never felt 'limited' to 65 mph by these tires

(in fact the GY site describes what 2 do with towing between 65 and 75 mph)

but in MOST states the speed LIMIT while towing is LESS than the max posted, even in texas.

while i appreciate your reading the earlier posts, don't try to SUMMARIZE my experience here...

i can do that and have already CLEARLY done just that.

the OTHERs who have posted HIGH MILEAGE/TROUBLE FREE experience with their gyms

OR st tires have ALSO summarized their actual USE and without much drama.

COULD some1 develop a high mileage OR high speed trailer specific tire?


in fact there have BEEN tires like this and they are no longer in production for whatever reasons.

the simple fact is MOST trailer tires spend their lives UNDERinflated

or OVERloaded and parked for YEARS in the sun, going no where.

then are rolled over curbs and through pot holes or roadway debris and typically while still UNDER inflated.

the typical car/truck tire is supporting 1000-1200 lbs and with a modern sophisticated suspension/steering system.

while trailer tires are OFTEN carrying up to TWICE that weight...

on old leaf springs or rubber axles and while SQUIRMING/rolling OVER on the sidewalls 4 turns.

for heavier trucks, using E rated tires, they may b supporting 2000-3000 lbs

BUT are also much LARGER diameter, thicker and more expensive than ST tires.

and need to be inflated to 80 psi.

big trucker OR moho tires are a very different beast/issue than recreational trailers or ST tires.

again there are great threads for bashing or Mischaracterizing the evils of ST tires...

but THIS thread has the goal of simply REPORTING and DOCUMENTING actual usage

by streamers and without a lot of axe grinding.


all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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Old 04-26-2010, 09:33 AM   #114
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2air, I saw the "10 ply rating" on the label; can you tell us whether that means load range C, D or E - or are those old fashioned notations?

Nothing like new shoes to make a guy feel dressed up and ready to go. Looks good.


Somebody, please, point me to the road.

AIR 3987
WBCCI 4596
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Old 04-26-2010, 12:33 PM   #115
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hi pat

ply RATING is a way of translating the newer RADIAL designations into older BIAS tire language.

these are E rated as previously noted.

as i recall this specific tire is 2 steel, 2 polyester and 1 nylon cap.

so they are NO where near 10 plys

but the load rating of 2830 lbs at 80 psi is equivalent to bias 10 ply tire capacities.

the D rated version has exactly the same 5 'ply'/wraps/layers.

direct examination of the side walls on these tires suggested they are as soft/flexible as the D rated tires replaced.

so (just a guess) the 3-4 pounds of extra weight may be slightly larger cords/steel threads and RUBBER near the tread zone.

i would not hesitate to buy the original D rated tires,

so this was/is entirely an "experiment" on my part,

with the opportunity to look at ROLLING temps and pressure changes over a range of cold inflations.

and keep in mind the OEM alcoa wheels are still only rated for 2200 lbs so the extra tire capacity may be irrelevant.

all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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Old 05-10-2010, 12:17 PM   #116
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2air, I have the original Marathon tires (made in Canada) and like you, have nearly 30,000 miles on them having excellent results. I am in the process of replacing them with new Marathons made in the USA. I have been told by several tire shop reps that balancing the tires are unnecessary and other shop reps that balancing should be done. Any thoughts on balancing or not balancing the tires?
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Old 05-10-2010, 12:42 PM   #117
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hi whitey'

does ANY tire/wheel combo really need balancing...

many tire/wheel shops view trailer gear as 2nd class...

and no one is RIDING in the trailer to report on the ride quality.

most of our trailer wheels are LUG centric, not HUB centric like auto wheels,

so the shop needs an adapter

or must take extra time/steps to assure a trailer wheel is positioned on the balancer correctly.

in terms of wear, ride, control and long term issues from bouncing down the road...

most definitely good balancing is needed.

your unit has disc brakes right?

so the tire/rim balance is useful without regard to 'drum' issues.

((check your CURRENT set up, there are probably bead weights on the BACK and maybe the front of those rims...))

the 2nd set of gyms ran about 10-15,000 miles longer than the first.

the 2nd set of gyms ran with centramatics added to the mix.

the centramatics may/may not have been a helpful addition but are NOT a substitute for the initial balancing.

thanks for posting YOUR mileage and use report!

all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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Old 05-10-2010, 03:40 PM   #118
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Used to own a tire shop and I am pretty particular about the tires on all my vehicles. The important thing is to get the correct tire for the application inflate it properly and make sure it is inflated to the correct pressure when its going to be going down the road. It will then serve you well. This comes from the personal experiece at looking at what people have done to ruin thousands of perfectly good tires. Some from ignorance and some from stupidity. Tires should be balanced. Maybe not as important on an equipment trailer hauling materials but sitll important to do. I've seen a lot of tires that were actually egg shaped from a long term out of balance situation and I have seen those same tires going down the road bouncing off the pavement which definetly does not contribute to handling safety. Four out of balance wheels on your A/S will try to back out every screw and every bolt in your trailer. They will prematurely wear out your hydraulic shock asbsorbers and wear out tires from sidewall flex and uneven tread wear. They will also shake up the cold beer in the reefer so your first drink will go on the carpet or up your nose. Take care of your tires and they will take care of you.
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Old 06-30-2010, 12:24 PM   #119
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You have mentioned (in the past) that the GYM ST tires can be inflated to accommodate higher speeds than 65 mph. I believe adding ten pounds increases the speeds up to 75 mph. I cannot find that info on their website and wonder where that inflation information came from. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 06-30-2010, 07:16 PM   #120
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hi jm...

this is one of those tire topics that often leads to wild debates.

for those that care to do that, see the links below and post there...

ok, that noted, hope this info helps jm'

the rv tire guide from gy is here...

looks like it's has NOT been freshened since 05, but the relevant pages from the older guide are on page 23,

see the BROWN BOX wording, read or print/read it.

we've had several good discussions of the recommendations...

and the guide has been quoted or para phrased several times here.

see post # 33 here and 10+ posts on either side of it...

also see post #362 here and many before/following it...

not ST specific but more good reading on inflation tables here...

and the related issue of choosing c/d or e rated tires.

my interpretation of the goodyear info is this...

1. if running pressures based on load, listed in the tables (for example 45 or 50 psi), BUT driving at 65-75...

add 10 psi to each tire.

2. do NOT exceed the cold inflation stamped on the tire.

so if running d or e rated tires at 50 psi, add 10 more pounds of air.

if the tires are already AT the inflation limits (65 or 80) do NOT add more air.

another way to view this is if a LOWER pressure is selected based on axle/tire loads, BUT you intend to occasionally drive over 65...

the tires are UNDERinflated so add 10 psi.

often the best advice is to simply inflate to side wall limits (65 for D rated tires) and leave them at 65.

this would cover all issues except OVER LOADING beyond the tire ratings.

that's a no no.

others interpret the gym guide differently, see the threads linked above.

the tables and "10 psi more" for speeds over 65 are for gyms...

that info may not apply to ANY other brand of ST tire.

i am currently rollin on maxxis E rated (80 psi max) tires.

based on LOAD the tires could support the load at 50 or 55 psi.

currently they are inflated to 68 psi with the heat/pressure increases under evalutaion.

i'll post more on HOW it's goin' after a few 1000 miles more towing.

all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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Old 06-30-2010, 07:27 PM   #121
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here's a screen shot of the info requested, page 23 above...

((click/open in new window/zoom 2 read))

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another tidbit from the guide is STORAGE pressures.

there is a suggestion to inflate 25% OVER the required pressure when in dry dock...

i've typically done something similar (d rated 65 psi tires inflated to 70 psi) when the stream is stored long term...

but that's not often, thankfully.

all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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Old 06-30-2010, 09:45 PM   #122
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Thanks. I appreciate it.
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Old 08-05-2010, 05:43 AM   #123
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Tire Failure Solution

OK, here's my solution to tire failures...

Concrete Tires, Rubber Roads

Would you rather have a mansion full of money or a trailer full of love?
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Old 08-06-2010, 06:09 PM   #124
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So instead of Firestones, we'll be rolling on Flintstone Tires, it worked for Fred and Wilma, why not!
S/OS #001
2005 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L 6 Speed
16" Michelins, Hi Spec Wheels, Max Brake, Carslile Actuator, Equal-i-zer, Dill TPMS. Campfire cook.
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Old 08-06-2010, 10:31 PM   #125
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I got a chance to try out Fred's 'wheels' last week at the Calif State Fair in Sacramento....

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Ray & Pat; Morada, CA
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