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Old 05-26-2016, 02:07 PM   #183
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Yes.
$1,200 vs. $2,500 I think


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Old 05-26-2016, 02:09 PM   #184
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Good points - I'm going to negotiate the price.
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Old 05-27-2016, 08:25 AM   #185
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No credit is given for the OEM 15" GYM tires and wheels. The Service Center makes the profit on the outright sale and the assembly line gets a bonus cost reduction by reusing the takeoffs.

I felt I was better off giving the wheels to my son and he can discard the GYM tires. The 2,000 mile used GYM tires are hardly worth the cost off getting them off the rims.

The factory price when I was getting the parts together for the 16" conversion in late 2013 was only a few hundred dollars higher than the costs I incurred sourcing sort of locally.
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Old 05-27-2016, 09:09 AM   #186
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We bought four 16" Michelins and Sendel wheels mounted/balanced with metal valve stems and steel lug nuts from Discount tire for $1500, and I put them on. Sold the original wheels and GYM tires in very good condition to a friend for $500 who is still very happy to have them for his trailer to and from the lake on weekends.

Kept the original spare tire, no TPMS and no Centramatic balancers. (Isn't that why we upgraded tires.) Exceptionally reliable tire/wheel upgrade for $1,000.
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Old 05-27-2016, 09:32 AM   #187
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16" Sendel Wheels & 16" Michelin LTX Tires

My upgrade was extremely economical also with the sale of the wheels and taking advantage of a tire sale and Michelin cash card through Discounttiredirect.com. I had called Jackson Center and 4 years ago they quoted me a shipped price of wheels and tires of about $1,680. My net cost buying the tires from Discount, the Sendel wheels from Tredit.com, rebate and sale on the tires, and selling the old wheels brought the cost down to about $850.

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Old 05-27-2016, 09:52 AM   #188
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I did the upgrade to 16" Sendel wheels and LT Michelins for about $1,400. That was 5 tires and wheels mounted and balanced. I then traded the GYM tires and wheels to my Airstream guy that does restorations. It has worked out to be a days labor which I think is a very good deal. I think that all in all a reasonably priced upgrade. I was going to replace the tires anyway. I just didn't trust the GYMs. Peace of mind------priceless.
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Old 05-28-2016, 08:37 AM   #189
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Peace of mind is priceless.

Resolving the tire issue adds to my peace of mind.
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Old 05-28-2016, 02:39 PM   #190
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First 16" Michelin Trip: We and Trailer survived!

Traveled from Castle Rock, CO to Boulder City, NV without any problems.

The rivet panels are still intact, although my wife said I did not mention the popped rivets in the closet and next to the bed. These were using the 'easy riding' Marathons, so will take care of these rivets with metal screws and update my count, so not put the blame on the Michelin tires and 16" wheels.

What if... it is not the tires or suspension that causes interior rivets to POP, hinges to come loose, drawers slide out onto the floor, sliding doors jumping out of their slides and the long list of other tire related... superstitions?

What if the Aluminum Shell will settle into a more relaxed state and mellow out over time? Although my replacing popped rivets inside the trailer with a high quality steel sheet metal screw will settle that argument, one way or the other. I just need to find a bag of 12 or more that meet the standards of the one I found in a drawer of loose hardware. Soon.

If I am wrong and the screw pops out... maybe a bigger one is needed.

Checked the Costco Nitrogen after our last trip and it was the same pressure. May need a more accurate pressure gauge. Just kidding... The Nitrogen Deniers are out there.
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Old 05-28-2016, 02:53 PM   #191
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What size screw did you use? Something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Screws-Phillip...al+screws+%236

I've yet to have any rivets come loose or fall out, so I'm not sure what it takes.
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Old 05-28-2016, 03:47 PM   #192
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Replace aluminum panel rivets with aluminum rivets, not sheet metal screws. The rivets may continue to break, but that will be better than the screws staying in place and the aluminum panel tearing loose making a larger hole around the screw.

OTOH some may take pride in a little wear and tear, evidence of an Airstream well used.
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Old 06-03-2016, 12:01 PM   #193
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Tires, Pressure, Hitch, Load and Stress Zones in each model

In reference to Posts #190 and #191.

References to popped rivets and tires appear to be common conversations on the Forum. I had a total of SIX popped rivets before our Michelin conversion. They are described in the Interior Restoration Forum section.

I found that Lowe's Buildex Teks Lath Screws, #21500, #8 x 1/2" using a Phillips #2 works for me. The half inch is measured from the top of the head to the tip. That leaves the rest as a thread to fit very tight into the hole, left by the missing pop rivet. At the head of the lath screw is an area that would appear as a thick washer as part of the head. So a larger surface area of the screw is flush against the interior aluminum skin.

After the latch screw is firmly installed, the indent appears to be no different than those of the pop rivets from the factory installation. The lath screw will resist any attempts to over tighten... so be careful not to mar your finish by over doing it. The head of the screw blends in excellent with the factory pop rivets.

This I am using and using my 2014 Airstream to test the Lath Screw option.

There are a number of possible reasons for popped rivets on the Airforums:

(1) Tires and tire pressure
(2) Hitches and over and under adjusted while in use
(3) Over loading of trailer creating stress (I add this one)
(4) Factory created and unavoidable 'stress zones' mostly on the door side of the trailer

I am anxious to discount #1, #2 (I have an Equalizer hitch).
Point #3 is possible, but at what point?
Point #4 may be the culprit in the majority, if not ALL popped rivet events.

My Michelin 16" tires are at 71# Nitrogen, cold temperature.

Summer travel for us begins this Sunday, June 5th.
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Old 06-19-2016, 08:17 PM   #194
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These tires and wheels have preformed flawlessly. Costco Nitrogen 71psi. Felt tire side walls when pumping gas and just warm.

No issues with tire squeal backing up or backing up while turning sharply to fit into a space on concrete. I have not noticed rubber tread marks on concrete when turning out of gas stations.

One rivet found in bathroom on floor. Now up to SEVEN popped rivets. Six on Marathon 15" D Rated and One on Michelin 16" E Rated.

Still have the standard loose cabinet hinges and plastic cabinet snap locks having their screws back out. My cure, as with my 2006 Safari, larger and better screws to secure latches and hinges to drawers and doors.

So far, no issues. No complaints. Traveling slowly though a School Zone or highway speeds on the Interstate... zip, nothing, nada issues.
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Old 06-20-2016, 05:38 PM   #195
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Well, I took the plunge. Thanks to everyone on this thread for putting so much great information in one place!

Ended up installing four SenDel T02 16" rims and four Michelin LTX 255/75R16 tires with a Dill TPMS to boot. Costco was all too happy to sell me the tires and put everything together for me.

I asked them to label the tires A,B,C,D so I'd know which sensor was in which tire. This is important so you know which tire is which on the TPMS readout. They were done in about an hour and a half.

So, with 80 lbs.nitrogen in the tires, I installed them on the trailer. The contact patch looked a little small for a truck tire so I let 10 lbs. out all the way around. That might have been too much...

Took it for a spin and noticed right away that the truck is working much harder than before. Consistent EGTs over 1K, used to see 800 or so. I pulled one steep hill into the campsite and realized that 70 lbs. is just too soft. Rides nicely though...

So I went on a longer trip this weekend, 50 miles out and back at 80 lbs. all the way around. The rig behaved more like normal, nice cushy ride with nary a cushion out of place. The LTX tires do have more rolling resistance which will negatively impact my fuel economy - too early to say how much. I was getting about 17 MPG from Baltimore to Naples and back, I expect to see smaller numbers now.

I'll probably bring the pressure down a couple of pounds to see if I can find a balance to keep both the trailer and the truck happy.

Otherwise, the ride is much smoother and items in the trailer tend to stay in place rather than end up on the floor. So I'll call this a change for the better!

I'll report back after I drag her around a little more.
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Old 06-21-2016, 08:51 AM   #196
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We run 72/73 psi in our 16" Michelin LT225/75R16/E LTX M/S2 tires and our Classic weighs 9,200 pounds loaded for camping. The load capacity per tire versus pressure for this E range tire:

80psi 2,680 (E)
75psi 2,560
70psi 2,440
65psi 2,335 (D)
60psi 2,190
55psi 2,060
50psi 1,940 (C)
45psi 1,790
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