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Old 10-21-2015, 01:09 PM   #71
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15" rim vs. 16" rim ?

When I ordered new wheels I also ordered new lug nuts too. It made it much easier to sell the old wheels to another Airstream owner. I tow at 80 psi because I have a heavy 30' slide out. Airstream always recommends 80 when using the LT tires due to the fact that they don't know the weight of your loaded trailer and 80 psi gives you the maximum load capacity that is stamped on the sidewall. Lots of discussions here on the forum regarding tire pressure recommendations. I think the consensus is if you have never weighed your loaded trailer, then anything you put in is a best guess. It's better to be a little on the high side than be under inflated which will always result in a hot tire and ply separation leading to failure.

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Old 10-21-2015, 01:49 PM   #72
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I ordered new lug nuts, too, because the original ones with the chrome covers were junk.
Sold the OE wheels on Airstream classifieds.


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Old 10-21-2015, 01:58 PM   #73
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Interesting info on the Discount Tire website. They say to run ST tires at the max pressure on the sidewall. Also that the lifespan is 3-4 years, and 5000-12,000 miles. Good for thought.


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Old 10-21-2015, 03:22 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by Cannonball View Post
Interesting info on the Discount Tire website. They say to run ST tires at the max pressure on the sidewall. Also that the lifespan is 3-4 years, and 5000-12,000 miles. Good for thought.


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Which is why ST tires are a ripoff.


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Old 10-21-2015, 04:40 PM   #75
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All tires get ~old~ ...
http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/how-...our-tires.html
My father was a chemical engineer, worked for Gates Rubber product improvement, avid RVer, who grew up on a farm before tractors. He could remember the evolution of various types of tires for different applications and his towables always had STs, never any problems.
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Old 10-21-2015, 05:54 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by Cannonball View Post
Interesting info on the Discount Tire website. They say to run ST tires at the max pressure on the sidewall. Also that the lifespan is 3-4 years, and 5000-12,000 miles. Good for thought.


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Spot on!
That's why I got 16" wheels and LT tires.
The life expectancy just went to 5-8 years and I am no longer limited to 65 mph, although I still tow at 65 mph max for other reasons like reaction time, stopping distance, and fuel economy.
It makes more sense to buy better tires snd get longer tread life.


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Old 10-22-2015, 09:39 AM   #77
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For me it was a matter of doing the math. First iis my deductible cost in repairing the damage caused by a tire failure. Second the fact that both my Marathons and Maxxis tires failed at the end of year 3 or the beginning of year 4 of use telling me that 3 years is the max life for an ST on my weight Airsteam. So figuring I can most likely use 2 sets of LT tires in 10 years vs 3 sets of ST tires, and adding in the cost of damage, going to 16" wheels and LT tires is both cost effective and safer than sitting on the side of a highway with a blown tire.

Jack
Have to wonder if you know the reason for the tire failures. Simply changing to different size may or may not address the "root cause" for your tire failure.
Simply saying the tire blew out is not a real analysis as the term "blowout" is not sufficiently detailed or accurate to know the real cause.

A bit like saying an old person died, doesn't tell you if the cause was Influenza, heart disease, or diabetes. Each of these are specific and different "reasons" so getting a flu shot to prevent influenza will be of no help in preventing diabetes.
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Old 10-22-2015, 10:06 AM   #78
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Yep ... what Tireman9 said ...
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Old 10-22-2015, 10:16 AM   #79
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I am looking at some nice 16" wheel tire combos but I'm wondering if they'll fit my AS. They came off a different tow vehicle. Do I need to expect to swap out size up the hub where the wheel bolts are?

-Mac
When swapping wheels there are a number of dimensions and "fit" issues that need to be considered.
Wheel "offset" controls the location of the tire toward or away from the center of the vehicle.
Center bore may be critical as some wheels are "hub centric" which means the center of rotation is controlled by the fit of the wheel to the hub. Others are "lug centric" which means the fit of the lug nuts controls the wheel/tire run-out.
Lug nut fit. Most steel wheels have a "cone fit" where the taper of the lug nut fits the taper of the wheel center. Aluminum wheels may have a simple cone fit with a straight taper or a radiused, or “ball” style. The two styles must never be mixed. The seat profile in the wheel dictates the nut or bolt seat style. There is also a "mag style" that requires a large flat washer.
While it may be possible to initially use the wrong type nut the results will be a loss of torque and damage to the wheel with the potential of having a wheel come off the vehicle.

I will be expanding on these items on my blog on RVTireSafety
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Old 10-22-2015, 01:40 PM   #80
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Just get 6" zero offset wheels with a 6 on 5 1/2 bolt pattern and a 4.25 center bore and lug nuts with the same threads and seat angle and everything will be fine.


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Old 10-23-2015, 09:07 AM   #81
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15" rim vs. 16" rim ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tireman9 View Post
Have to wonder if you know the reason for the tire failures. Simply changing to different size may or may not address the "root cause" for your tire failure.
Simply saying the tire blew out is not a real analysis as the term "blowout" is not sufficiently detailed or accurate to know the real cause.

A bit like saying an old person died, doesn't tell you if the cause was Influenza, heart disease, or diabetes. Each of these are specific and different "reasons" so getting a flu shot to prevent influenza will be of no help in preventing diabetes.

Well, I keep the pressures at recommended levels. I check them before every trip. I store the trailer inside, I travel around 60 mph, I don't hit curbs or pot holes. Basically I've done everything one can do to maximize the life of a tire. Had a Marathon lose tread and subsequently fail while doing a back in to my drive on a return home. Had 2 E rated Maxxis tires on the same axle show evidence of belt separation after returning home from a trip. Tires were checked before departure and at each fuel or rest stop for heat or other problems. Pressure at 80 psi. Marathon was 65 psi. Root cause to me was age of the tires, Marathon was at the end of its 3rd year of life, Maxxis were at the beginning of year 4 of use. Airsteam is a 30' slide out. With full fresh water and normal load, I can approach 9,100 lbs in weight.

I just believe that the combination of weight and age render an ST tire unreliable after 3 years of use. I'm not shooting from the hip here or abusing these tires. I am fortunate to find these problems before the tires truly blew out under speed. I attribute that to my close inspection of the tires.

I've owned 3 trailers in my lifetime with ST tires. The first two were sold prior to them getting to 3 years of age. I've had my current Classic for 11 years and the current set of Michelin LT tires are now in their 4th season of use.

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Old 10-23-2015, 10:10 AM   #82
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Back in 2012, I jumped at the opportunity to upgrade my trailer tires from 15" Goodyear Marathons to 16" Michelin LT tires. You see, two years earlier I took my SOB trailer with Marathon tires from Wisconsin to Glacier National Park. I had the distinct displeasure of fixing a flat tire in Western Minnesota and another in Eastern Montana on the way out. Fixing involved buying replacement Marathon tires. On the way back, I had to replace the other two Marathon tires before I got out of Montana. Swapping out tires on the side of a narrow highway is not my idea of a good time. I swore I'd never have another trailer with Marathon tires. A little research on my part lead me to going to the light truck tire with more rubber on the road and higher weight capacity. Now I'm a happy camper!
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Old 10-23-2015, 11:04 AM   #83
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One reason for tire failure

One reason for tires on trailers seem to fail early is that the suspension design of tandem contributes to significant increase in "Interply Shear" forces that are internal forces in the tire structure that are trying to tear the tire apart from the inside.

If you think about it, a tire needs to rotate with the center of rotation pointing toward the center of the radius but this is not possible with two fixed axles on a trailer. This results in shear forces being over 20% higher than experienced by tires when used on a motorized vehicle where all tires do rotate about a center line that does point to the center of the turn radius.

The fact that most tires used on multi axle trailers happen to be ST type has an impact or the belief that the fault is simply because the tires are ST type.

Correlation is not the same as Causation.

If you want to learn more about Interply Shear I suggest you Google the term and include RV tires in your search. You will find some technical papers on the topic along with other information on these forces.
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Old 10-23-2015, 11:38 AM   #84
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Interesting discussion at the link below on Interply Shear from 2012. It's a very helpful, fully illustrated, thread on one person's experience with that issue.

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...ics-14359.html

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