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Old 01-19-2017, 10:21 PM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
Stuff on the floor that started off put away is a good indication of a rough ride. The other is popped interior rivets.


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Depends on the condition of the road. Try going to Alaska sometime.
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Old 01-19-2017, 10:29 PM   #162
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Trailer ride is felt in tow vehicle

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barbieri View Post
Your not supposed to be in a trailer while going down the road. So the question that begs to be asked. How do you know what type of ride you have? Please let's start getting serious.
I'll be serious.

Some tow vehicle + trailer combinations transmit a lot of bumps from the trailer to the car. I think it gets worse with a heavier-duty WD hitch. My rig gives us a lot of porpoising when we are on concrete freeways with uneven panels. We have experimented with adjusting trailer tire air pressure, and have clearly felt the difference in the car (less air, better ride). So I am sure the trailer feels the difference, too.
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Old 01-19-2017, 11:09 PM   #163
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Originally Posted by SSquared View Post
I'll be serious.



Some tow vehicle + trailer combinations transmit a lot of bumps from the trailer to the car. I think it gets worse with a heavier-duty WD hitch. My rig gives us a lot of porpoising when we are on concrete freeways with uneven panels. We have experimented with adjusting trailer tire air pressure, and have clearly felt the difference in the car (less air, better ride). So I am sure the trailer feels the difference, too.


I use a heavy duty hitch. What your mentioning is a result of road conditions. I noticed it when traveling to Alaska. It was frost heaves in the road and it got worse the faster you went. As I slowed down the problem became less pronounced. I don't adjust tire pressure. I adjust my speed.


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Old 01-21-2017, 06:29 AM   #164
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Years ago when driving our diesel Suburban (it was at the dealership more than my garage), we were on an interstate in Wyoming. The posted speed limit was 80 mph. The road was "undulating" (not joint seems) and we were getting pounded. The distance between the "waves" in the pavement were out of synch with the ability of the suspension to respond to the vertical motion. By slowing down to 70, the suspension of the car could respond properly to the wave action and the ride was greatly improved.

Trailer ride can be impacted the same way with the vertical motion of the car and interaction with the tongue of the trailer and it's wheel base. There is a run of road in Arizona where the posted is 65 mph, but the appropriate speed is 35 mph to not beat the truck, tailer and people to death.

Tire pressure is important because the sidewall of the tire is part of the suspension along with the shocks. The GoodYear tire load vs pressure charts might be informative. These are not for the just released ST and LT tires in the 2016/2017 time frame.
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Old 01-21-2017, 08:24 AM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
Stuff on the floor that started off put away is a good indication of a rough ride. The other is popped interior rivets.


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Popped rivets yes ! I forgot to note that.
I had about 8 popped rivets. None of that since running with the Michelin LTX tires.
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Old 01-21-2017, 08:38 AM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barbieri View Post
Your not supposed to be in a trailer while going down the road. So the question that begs to be asked. How do you know what type of ride you have? Please let's start getting serious.

Seriously?

If you don't notice when your trailer is getting bounced seriously, then you are not very aware.

Mike
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Old 01-21-2017, 10:22 AM   #167
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Tire pressure is important because the sidewall of the tire is part of the suspension along with the shocks. The GoodYear tire load vs pressure charts might be informative.
Switz, this chart says the GYM's on my FC25 with a MGW of 7,300, but normally I'm at about 6,200 ready to travel, can be run down at 45psi and still have a weight-carrying margin. No wheel on my TT is loaded as high as 2,020 lbs.

I get it about the GYM failures and I will change to 15" Michelins. My thought is to use the GYM tires no more than two years or 5,000 miles, whichever comes first, then make the switch.

But my question is: can these Goodyears be run at lower pressure with a lighter trailer like mine? Running at max. psi of 65 with the GYM tires, cushions get thrown around and I suspect rivet shearing is next.
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Old 01-21-2017, 10:57 AM   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caffeinated View Post
j


Seriously?

If you don't notice when your trailer is getting bounced seriously, then you are not very aware.

Mike
Tend to agree; you can certainly notice if you pay attention. The other indicators as mentioned; popped rivets, drawers open or on floor, "stuff" on floor like cushions. We don't have that when we run on Michelins. If the "road" is bumpy, no tire will help you out...you need to slow down for sure. But on most highways and roads, we have notice the difference with the Michelins. Just saying that's our experience.
As for TV or passenger car where road noise also is a factor, the Michelins are much quieter then other brands we have had over the years (Goodyear, Pirelli, Firestone). I am sure there are other brands with similar qualities, but I know what works for us so why switch.
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Old 01-22-2017, 07:42 AM   #169
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The GYM 15" ST tires Airstream installs are to be run at 65 psi per the sticker street side front that lists all the details for the trailer. The sidewall needs the air pressure for strength for the shear forces in tight turns which scrubs the tires sideways.

As I have mentioned before, one must know the actual load on each tire before deviating from the maximum recommended pressure. Even if one acquires the loads per axle from a truck scale, the load may not be even side to side. That is the case with our two Airstreams.

Classic scale numbers my scales May 2014

tongue…….…1200 ———————1200

front ..2034…………..2042 ——— 4076

rear....1921…………..2062 ——— 3983

Total Trailer.....9259

Camping Ready 23D my scales 9 May 2016

Tongue………928
Front….1,280……1,246 - total front axle.2,526
Rear…..1,376……1,233 - total rear axle..2,609
Total Axles………..................................5,135
Total Trailer….6,063

I selected the 72.5 psi tire pressure for the 16" Michelins on the Classic for a 2,500 pound load but end up running 74 psi as I can read that easier. The other factor to montior is the tire temperature when running at speed. Too low a pressure will cause side wall flex which will increase the inside temperature of the tire.

We have a significantly greater safety margin on the 15" Michelin tires on the 23D due to lower loads versus the derated maximum capacity of the tire at 44 psi of 1,985 pounds.
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Old 02-26-2017, 09:21 PM   #170
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Okay I ordered my Sendel 16 wheels, Michelin tires and Centramatic balancers this weekend for my 2015 25' Senerity (previously 15" GYM). Got 5 wheels on Amazon and used some CC point, so to minimize my out of pocket costs. Ordered 5 tires from TireRack (got $70 online coupon direct from Michelin to help reduce my costs) and bought balancers directly from Centramatics.

My question is will I need to make any adjustments to my hitch height? Just curious what others have done.

I will be posting my 15" GYM' and the spare tire once I get these installed for anyone looking for 15' wheels and tires. They have roughly 4000-5000 miles on the tread. I live near Castle Rock CO if interested.

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Old 02-28-2017, 10:23 AM   #171
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Stock GYM ST225/75R15D tire rated 2,540 pounds @ 65 psi and 28.3" in diameter

Michelin LT225/75R16/E LTX M/S2 tire rated 2,680 pounds @ 80 psi and 29.2" in diameter

The trailer will be 0.45" higher after the 16" tire installation. So the hitch will most likely require adjustment for the trailer to sit level.
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Old 02-28-2017, 01:36 PM   #172
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Maybe I'm looking in the wrong places, but I tried to find 15" Michelins in a 225/75. and couldn't. Seems there's lots of 215's or 235's.
If I could find a 15" Michelin, that would reduce the initial cost of rims.
I don't see why a 235 wouldn't work since they're not dualies.
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Old 02-28-2017, 04:50 PM   #173
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Maybe I'm looking in the wrong places, but I tried to find 15" Michelins in a 225/75. and couldn't. Seems there's lots of 215's or 235's.
If I could find a 15" Michelin, that would reduce the initial cost of rims.
I don't see why a 235 wouldn't work since they're not dualies.


Hi. I use that model (Michelin LTX P235/75/R15 M/S2) which I believe is now upgraded to a Defender model of the same size with a little more load capacity. They fit fine in my 2012 27FB Flying Cloud. Lots more info in multiple threads - here's one:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f438...es-151766.html
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