Would it be smart to pour a pad?

[26.982 amu]

I'm going to "prep" my Texas seacoast lot for my '69 Ambassador in two weeks. I plan to park it there for a long time. Although the lot is essentially bare crushed shell and is built up a bit from its surroundings, would it be smart to have a concrete pad poured to park it on, or would it be better to simply set the tires on concrete or cinderblock squares? Or--should I just leave the ground as it is?

[TomW]

I like the idea of a pad.

Here's a thread with some pros & cons on what you face.

Tom

[mandolindave]

But I was told that the tires don't like concrete. Maybe we could use welcome mats over the concrete.

[markdoane]

Are you gonna take the concrete pad with you when the next hurricane comes through?

Or are you gonna put down a new one every other year?

[wahoonc]

My personal preference for a pad situation is well drained gravel and then park the trailer up on some PT wood. Seems to be the least detrimental to the tires. Besides gravel is cheaper than concrete.

Aaron

[driftwood]

I use scrap Corian rectangles under my tires. No water absorption and quite an inert material. ... Works for me!

[Pick]

Pour a pad. I am going to. The moisture coming up from the ground is detrimental. As far as tire damage, I would not worry about it. If you going to park it, take the tires off, and put the coach on blocks.

[wahoonc]

Originally Posted by driftwood

I use scrap Corian rectangles under my tires. No water absorption and quite an inert material. ... Works for me!

WOW! Millionnare Airstreaming at its best on second thought...just make the whole pad out of corian

Aaron

[Silvertwinkie]

I agree. Pour the pad.

Ours sits over winter inside in a quasi heated garage (about 30 degrees when it's below zero outside).

I have some cheap patio carpeting I place under the tires. The fabric cushions the tires sitting and also prevents constant contact with the cement.

[TomW]

If you decide on a pad, think about pitch for drainage. My master plan includes a pad which has a level area where the tires sit so that the refrigerator can be pre-cooled before a trip.

If you hire a contractor, and do not discuss the project, you may end up with a pad pitched for drainage which means you may have to shim one side of your trailer for level when you park it.

Tom

[Tinsel Loaf]

Pads are a nice feature. Just put the tires on plywood during the park. Check with local codes to see how far property setbacks are. I poured mine to close to the street (38 feet rather than the 50 foot setback) and our county won't let me use it for the intended purpose. We live in the boonies too.

[Action]

Even if you park the trailer with the tires seperated from the concrete, after about 5 to 7 years those tires will not be trust worthy enough to use. The tire will not last forever if not used.

Long term park? Block it and sell the tires.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

[airhead]

I just completed the first phase of what will become the personal parking spot for our Overlander. I first leveled out the ground with a tractor as we live on slight grade and then put down a good quality decomposed granite (DG). I put an approx. 5 degree slope for water drainage and the DG has good draining qualities as well. Phase 2-10 of this project will include a fence, gate,lights, landscaping and a wood pergola to keep her covered at night. Alot of work, but she's worth it. Right?

Steve

[Tom Nugler]

Seems to me that the crushed shells would give you the drainage, but not the support you might need.
I poured two pads, one for each tire on a single axle GlobeTrotter, level with each other. Don't forget rebar. I just placed a couple layers of patio blocks under the tongue jack.
Inexpensive, no maintainence, NO permits required, and a sound place to store and work on the trailer. Granted your situation is a bit different but this installation has lasted for 6 years without any problems.
Tom

[26.982 amu]

Thanks for all of the great replies to my post. Weighoing everything--money, effectiveness, etc.--I'm beginning to go with the idea of removing the wheels and putting the AS up on blocks. Now--what's the best way to do this? Since the tires are good, could I buy junked tireless wheels to replace them, put the tire wheels in storage or sell them, and set the AS down on the tireless rims? Is there a way to protect the exposed drums? How high up should the AS sit? What about leaving it up on cheap jacks? HELP!

[Action]

Most amount of damage is going to occur from things above not below.

Rain, hail, snow, sunlight. And all of those things hurt the top of the trailer. A/C unit ($500) Vents (fantastic $150 regular $50) clear coat and shine ($150 a foot) I don't think most people think rain is a big deal. (It's not really that bad here - AZ) However water is basically a solvent. And given enough time the rain will wash away everything. Vulkem, silicone, clear coat, metal and ????

The things from below that you have to be concerned are tires only. (providing there is a level surface) That's maybe $150 each times 4 = $600. And everyone is going to replace tires anyway no matter what the situation. Wear or cracks tires will be replaced. Nothing else really touches the ground.

Get a cover too!!!!!!!!! Tent/canopy runs $200 with no permit. Some metal car ports not permentally attached $1000 no permit. Or go wild.

I would think the pad would be great and a cover for the top of the trailer to be an absolute. Crushed shells work well in Mexico. There are several places I go that the trailers have sat long enough on the sea shells that the tires have rotted out and leaked. Or 4X8X2 paving blocks.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

[Action]

Originally Posted by Vince Brach

Since the tires are good, could I buy junked tireless wheels to replace them, put the tire wheels in storage or sell them, and set the AS down on the tireless rims? Is there a way to protect the exposed drums? How high up should the AS sit? What about leaving it up on cheap jacks? HELP!

Tireless rims. That might work. It wouldn't look very good. And the contact patch would be far less than an inflated tire. You will want to support the trailer in the front and rear to prevent flexing when using it. Stabilizers do this if your trailer is so equipped.

Long term storage will also "set" the torsion axle. So using the axle to support the trailer for long term may not yield you the best results.

Throwing out ideas that others may add on to ....

Remove the tires/wheels and let the axle hang. Support the frame with metal jacks that are used in the manufactured home biz. Issues - jak to frame contact. Since the A/S trailer has a belly skin, the frame is not visable. So placement would be critical, such that you do not want the trailer to shift (when people are moving inside) and the trailer comes off the jacks. And that may look like 4 stands to a side or ???? And may be you might conside a fastener from the stand to the frame. (Screw or bolt) Instead of relying on gravity. Allowing the axle to hang from the trailer with the lowest point an inch or so off the ground, keeps the trailer from having any issues with ground contact. (Wheel bending, termites, digging a hole in the ground) And allows the axle to take a set (if it is going to set) in a way that will support the trailer better when it is used in traveling in later years. With the wheels off the trailer will likely be closer to the ground than if it had wheels on it. The axle travel is not great. Proper support of the frame is the biggest issue.

Again just my thoughts.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

[classic67]

Originally Posted by wahoonc

My personal preference for a pad situation is well drained gravel and then park the trailer up on some PT wood. Seems to be the least detrimental to the tires. Besides gravel is cheaper than concrete.

Aaron

Once again this site has a thread that is timely and helpful to me, so thanks to all who posted. Aaron, your post (quoted above) is the way I am going too. I had ramp & pad made from crushed stone a.k.a. item 4 applied to a prepped sub-base. that connects to the rear of my existing driveway. Once the crushed stone/item 4 was laid down, a paving roller was used to compact to the base. I was instructed by the installer to water down the ramp and pad for the next five days following the installation date.

My next step is to have a shelter/RV Port that will be installed over the pad build. I am working with a contractor that I have used for years now, and he s going to present me with several plans with varying designs to choose from. I will post pics of the progress for those who are interested in this sort of shelter approach on your own yard.