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Old 12-14-2005, 06:36 AM   #15
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"Padded" or not--what about blocks or jacks?

Thanks for all of the great replies to my post. Weighoing everything--money, effectiveness, etc.--I'm beginning to go with the idea of removing the wheels and putting the AS up on blocks. Now--what's the best way to do this? Since the tires are good, could I buy junked tireless wheels to replace them, put the tire wheels in storage or sell them, and set the AS down on the tireless rims? Is there a way to protect the exposed drums? How high up should the AS sit? What about leaving it up on cheap jacks? HELP!
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Old 12-14-2005, 01:33 PM   #16
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Most amount of damage is going to occur from things above not below.

Rain, hail, snow, sunlight. And all of those things hurt the top of the trailer. A/C unit ($500) Vents (fantastic $150 regular $50) clear coat and shine ($150 a foot) I don't think most people think rain is a big deal. (It's not really that bad here - AZ) However water is basically a solvent. And given enough time the rain will wash away everything. Vulkem, silicone, clear coat, metal and ????

The things from below that you have to be concerned are tires only. (providing there is a level surface) That's maybe $150 each times 4 = $600. And everyone is going to replace tires anyway no matter what the situation. Wear or cracks tires will be replaced. Nothing else really touches the ground.

Get a cover too!!!!!!!!! Tent/canopy runs $200 with no permit. Some metal car ports not permentally attached $1000 no permit. Or go wild.

I would think the pad would be great and a cover for the top of the trailer to be an absolute. Crushed shells work well in Mexico. There are several places I go that the trailers have sat long enough on the sea shells that the tires have rotted out and leaked. Or 4X8X2 paving blocks.

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Old 12-14-2005, 01:51 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince Brach
Since the tires are good, could I buy junked tireless wheels to replace them, put the tire wheels in storage or sell them, and set the AS down on the tireless rims? Is there a way to protect the exposed drums? How high up should the AS sit? What about leaving it up on cheap jacks? HELP!
Tireless rims. That might work. It wouldn't look very good. And the contact patch would be far less than an inflated tire. You will want to support the trailer in the front and rear to prevent flexing when using it. Stabilizers do this if your trailer is so equipped.

Long term storage will also "set" the torsion axle. So using the axle to support the trailer for long term may not yield you the best results.

Throwing out ideas that others may add on to ....

Remove the tires/wheels and let the axle hang. Support the frame with metal jacks that are used in the manufactured home biz. Issues - jak to frame contact. Since the A/S trailer has a belly skin, the frame is not visable. So placement would be critical, such that you do not want the trailer to shift (when people are moving inside) and the trailer comes off the jacks. And that may look like 4 stands to a side or ???? And may be you might conside a fastener from the stand to the frame. (Screw or bolt) Instead of relying on gravity. Allowing the axle to hang from the trailer with the lowest point an inch or so off the ground, keeps the trailer from having any issues with ground contact. (Wheel bending, termites, digging a hole in the ground) And allows the axle to take a set (if it is going to set) in a way that will support the trailer better when it is used in traveling in later years. With the wheels off the trailer will likely be closer to the ground than if it had wheels on it. The axle travel is not great. Proper support of the frame is the biggest issue.

Again just my thoughts.

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Old 07-19-2006, 09:24 PM   #18
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re:. parking pad

Quote:
Originally Posted by wahoonc
My personal preference for a pad situation is well drained gravel and then park the trailer up on some PT wood. Seems to be the least detrimental to the tires. Besides gravel is cheaper than concrete.

Aaron
Once again this site has a thread that is timely and helpful to me, so thanks to all who posted. Aaron, your post (quoted above) is the way I am going too. I had ramp & pad made from crushed stone a.k.a. item 4 applied to a prepped sub-base. that connects to the rear of my existing driveway. Once the crushed stone/item 4 was laid down, a paving roller was used to compact to the base. I was instructed by the installer to water down the ramp and pad for the next five days following the installation date.

My next step is to have a shelter/RV Port that will be installed over the pad build. I am working with a contractor that I have used for years now, and he s going to present me with several plans with varying designs to choose from. I will post pics of the progress for those who are interested in this sort of shelter approach on your own yard.
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