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Old 08-08-2006, 10:10 AM   #1
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2005 19' International CCD
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Where to jack up the trailer?

Like a good wife, I've been nagging my husband about greasing the bearings on our 19' Bambi CCD. It's been about a year since we took our little trailer home and we love it so much that I want to be sure to stay up to date on the maintenance (ie: care & feeding) of the trailer.

The biggest concern that my husband has is where to jack the trailer up from since he doesn't want to damage the trailer. I am thinking that it should be pretty obvious, but I'm not sure if the belly pan covers the entire bottom of the trailer.

Also, how long should we set aside for this maintenance project? 1-2 hours or more??

Sorry if this is an obvious question, we're new to this RV-thing, especially the Airstreams and we are a bit uneducated.

Thanks-
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Old 08-08-2006, 11:52 AM   #2
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Since you have a 2005 unit, do you also have the owners (operators) manual. And you may want to invest in a service manual.

These publication will help you with this question and will assist you with so many more. Get familar with your unit. the things that need attantion and when they need that attention.

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Old 08-08-2006, 11:59 AM   #3
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Time aloted........ good q and is variable depending on your skill, tools and the space you are working in.

Plan at least 2 hours if this is your first time doing this. I would recommend setting aside a day (Saturday) to do this job.

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Old 08-08-2006, 12:04 PM   #4
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If your CCD is like our 2002 19' Bambi, the jack points are indicated on the trailer itself. As Action has mentioned, your owner's manual will help locate them. Again, if our trailer is any indication, the actual points are visible as small, thick aluminum plates attached to the trailer's belly pan along the line of the trailer frame and near the wheels. Repacking the wheel bearings can be a messy job and requires having new grease seals on hand. In other words, you may find it easier to have an RV workshop/Airstream dealer do the work for you.
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Old 08-08-2006, 12:45 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim A.
If your CCD is like our 2002 19' Bambi, the jack points are indicated on the trailer itself.
It will be.

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Old 08-08-2006, 12:58 PM   #6
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Hi desidou--With a 2005 A/S, my opinion is you don't have to be concerned about greasing your axles any more often than you need to grease your 2005 Toyota wheel bearings. Again, my opinion, more damage is done with incorrect bearing remounting, than just leaving it alone. If it were mine A/S, I might consider looking at the bearings in 2015.--Frank S
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Old 08-08-2006, 01:08 PM   #7
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Frank, I am sure there are occasions of improper wheel bearing repacking. And I appreciate your opinion. I am most positive that in the opinion of Airstream, these wheel bearing should be repacked more frequently than every ten years. (If they are not permanentaly sealed bearings) If in doubt pay a professional. They stand to loose, in the event of defective work.

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Old 08-08-2006, 02:34 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim A.
If your CCD is like our 2002 19' Bambi, the jack points are indicated on the trailer itself. As Action has mentioned, your owner's manual will help locate them. Again, if our trailer is any indication, the actual points are visible as small, thick aluminum plates attached to the trailer's belly pan along the line of the trailer frame and near the wheels. Repacking the wheel bearings can be a messy job and requires having new grease seals on hand. In other words, you may find it easier to have an RV workshop/Airstream dealer do the work for you.
There have been a LOT of threads on jack points. My consensus from them all is not to use the plates you mention, but rather the axle mounting plate which bolts the axle to the frame. This hangs vertially behind the wheel and is easily accessible. As for the value of AS manuals, training any puppies?
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Old 08-08-2006, 02:44 PM   #9
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Hi frozen chosen--Will try the axle mounting plate the next time I use the jack. Sure seems like it would be a lot better than sliding all around the belly pan over the frame, and then punching through the belly pan along side the frame. Thank for the tip.-Frank S
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Old 08-08-2006, 03:14 PM   #10
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I have my trailer jacked up right now. All four tires are off. I use the tongue near where it goes under the box. I use the axle mounting beam like suggested above. No chance of the trailer slipping and no chance of punching thru the underbelly. This is the only way I would ever do it. Some one else may feel differently but it would be their responsibility.

This method allow full access to the axles, underbelly and other systems with complete stability.

Joe
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Old 08-08-2006, 07:36 PM   #11
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maybe good time for this question here- my bearings were repacked when the tires were replaced in June. How do I know how good the axles really are? This trailer was not towed much, it sat in an RV park a long time.
Also how long is it ok for it to sit still on the tires, when parked....I have not moved it since purchase a month or more...it will be rolling soon ,,,,thanks
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Old 08-08-2006, 09:05 PM   #12
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The right advice!

Quote:
Originally Posted by frozen chosen
There have been a LOT of threads on jack points. My consensus from them all is not to use the plates you mention, but rather the axle mounting plate which bolts the axle to the frame. This hangs vertially behind the wheel and is easily accessible. As for the value of AS manuals, training any puppies?
This is the best advice so far. Jacking on the axle itself could damage it severely. While you're under there, yes, the axle has an upward arch in the middle.

Chock the wheels. Your best stability will be had with keeping hitched to the tow vehicle. Two-axle trailers don't need to jack at all -- run one wheel up onto a service ramp (see this post) -- I even carry one in my truck for any single flat tire!
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Old 08-08-2006, 09:45 PM   #13
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Trailer bearings IMHO (and I know of many others that agree and disagree) should be repacked every 2-3 years, sooner if you put a lot of miles on them. Trailer axles go through very high stresses and loads and they can sit for months on end. One can't compare a car/SUV to a trailer axle. Two totally different animals, even though the mechanics are the same or similar.

It's been said somewhere on this forum that you should NOT attach your jack to the axle mounting brackets...that's not what they are for....additionally, if I read correctly, the axle beam, I am thinking that might be the axle shaft itself, the one that has a curve? If it is, that too is a big NO NO. Newer Airstreams have the correct mounting points shown on the bottom. Can't find them, can't RTFM or have one? Call Airstream and be crystal clear on the proper location before jacking up that coach. Doing the wrong thing can and has stressed the shell, and thrown many shells out of wack. The shell is more than just the walls and roof of the coach, it's a major supporting structure that helps carry and balance the loads. Folks have found first hand how real testy the shell can be if the stabilizer jacks are torqued too much, imagine jacking the whole weight up on the wrong area? You could have more than a door that is hard to close. Anyone recall the 2004 Airstream axle recall? Improper grease and/or grease levels were seperating entire wheels from axles. Both these questions are excellent questions and proceedures should be done with great care.

On an quasi related note, trailer tires should also be replaced after 3 years.
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Old 12-02-2006, 09:46 PM   #14
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Jacking up the Trailer

Okay, I have read the threads about the proper jacking points. I am definitely convinced to jack at the axle mounting plate for lifting the trailer. My question is: I need to get under the trailer to do some work (removing part of the belly pan, replacing some plumbing, etc.). I need for the trailer to be a good bit off the ground to get underneath. What is the best way to accomplish this? (I'll be using a hydraulic floor jack)

> Should I lift the trailer at the mounting plate, then place jack stands under the frame with a 2X6 between the frame and the stand?

> Or should I place a jack stand under the mounting plate next to the jack.

> How far can I lift the trailer on one side without causing damage to the frame or body?

Thanks!

P.S. I have a 1969 25' Tradewind - dual axle
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Old 12-02-2006, 10:08 PM   #15
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Jack stands should be placed at the mounting plates as well, but that is not how I would do it. It would be alot safer and easier to build ramps out of 2X6's and tow the trailer onto the ramps. Chock the wheels when they are on the ramps and you are set. I have a 2 sets of Lynx Levelers that let me build ramps for leveling when camping. They are lego type blocks and they work great also.
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Old 12-02-2006, 10:42 PM   #16
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hi bean...

i'm with azf' on this...

use ramps AND chocks....

very secure and stable....

jacks or blocks could be added at the out riggers for stablity.

i've raised my on one side 10 inches or so...

i've got a set of the 12k version here...

http://www.blitzusa.com/automotive/ramps.html

if you've read all the threads, then you've seen those great pictures of the bottle jacks, under the axle plates....

cheers
2air'
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Old 12-02-2006, 10:46 PM   #17
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Don't do this!
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Old 12-02-2006, 10:54 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azflycaster
Don't do this!
i wonder how close he is welding to the gas tank.
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Old 12-02-2006, 10:56 PM   #19
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Old 12-02-2006, 10:59 PM   #20
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I had to look at your profile to get that one, I thought maybe you were an undertaker .
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