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Old 05-20-2008, 08:32 PM   #1
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Wheel Seal part number

I've tried searches and it's probably here somewhere but I can't find it...I'm repacking the wheel bearings on my 05 30' Classic and I can't find a part number for my wheel seals. I took the old seals to a local auto parts and they got close but what they had seemed a lot thicker...so has some one got a brand name and part number for the wheel seals?

You guys are great....thanks in advance

Mike
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Old 05-20-2008, 08:36 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flynmike
I've tried searches and it's probably here somewhere but I can't find it...I'm repacking the wheel bearings on my 05 30' Classic and I can't find a part number for my wheel seals. I took the old seals to a local auto parts and they got close but what they had seemed a lot thicker...so has some one got a brand name and part number for the wheel seals?

You guys are great....thanks in advance

Mike
If you have Dexter axles, you can go to their web site and get the #'s for the seals there.............
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Old 05-20-2008, 09:45 PM   #3
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Hey Mike,

Just finished repacking the bearings on our 2005 30' Bunkhouse today. I tried getting the grease seals at Advance Auto, Autozone, Napa and O'Reilly. Only the guys at O'Reilly had any clue about what I needed. The part number is 412920. The seal size is I.D. 2.25", O.D. 3.376", and .375" thick. O'Reilly has two offerings: the National price was $17.99 a piece, while the MPS brand was $7.99. Anticipating a repacking in 10000 miles, I bought 4 MPS brand seals for the lower price.

A few observations:

1.) This was the first time I have removed the hubs off the axles. I'm glad I did today and did not procrastinate any longer. The spring/nail hold down for one of the brake shoes had come loose/broken leaving the brake shoe flopping around inside the drum. I did not notice any difference in braking with this part missing, but the flopping shoe did some damage to the inside surface of the drum. At regular intervals from now on I am going to look behind the brake backing plates and check to see whether all nail heads are in place.

2.) The original seals on two drums were allowing water to enter the races. I've seen premature seal failure before on Porsche and Volkswagen axles when the sealing surface was not properly greased before the hub was put on the spindle. I now wondering if this is a common manufacturing/assembly defect common to Dexter axles, or whether this was a unique occurence in my situation.

Bye
Paul
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Old 05-20-2008, 10:06 PM   #4
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Paul,
Glad you found the loose brake spring. Over $2500 in damage was done to my Sovereign last October just because of a broken brake spring. The drum overheated causing the bearing lube to burn up. Bearing failed thus cracking the inner drum flange to throw out a triangular piece of metal. The rim overheated causing the tire temps/pressure to soar and wham, piece of tire right through the outer and inner fenderwell.
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Old 05-20-2008, 10:50 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RossFam05BH
Hey Mike,

Just finished repacking the bearings on our 2005 30' Bunkhouse today. I tried getting the grease seals at Advance Auto, Autozone, Napa and O'Reilly. Only the guys at O'Reilly had any clue about what I needed. The part number is 412920. The seal size is I.D. 2.25", O.D. 3.376", and .375" thick. O'Reilly has two offerings: the National price was $17.99 a piece, while the MPS brand was $7.99. Anticipating a repacking in 10000 miles, I bought 4 MPS brand seals for the lower price.

Paul
That seal is available from parts stocking Airstream dealers.

Airstream uses it because it is "superior."

We sell hundreds of them per year.

No, they are not cheap, because they are far superior to ordinary grease seals.

I don't think I could bring myself to use a cheap grease seal, when my life and my families lives, are at stake, as well as innocent peoples, just to save a few bucks.

When it comes to safety, those that walk on the edge, ultimately pay the penalties, as well as innocent people.

Hello attorneys.

Goodbye safety.

Others get out of my way, cause I'm coming out in full force, safety be damned.

Safety, is always something men and women alike, tip their hats to.

I wonder how many people, especially in todays economy, would fly on an airliner, if they knew that second grade parts were used? Not very many, I would bet.

I honestly think and believe that everyone that's tows a trailer, should be exposed to a mandatory FAA "Safety Seminar."

They would all learn, in a matter of minutes, how a foolish dollar saving decision, could cost lives.

Your family, relatives and friends as well as your Airstream, will love you for it.

Davidz71, was very lucky. But, I would bet that same mishap will never happen to him again. He won't let it. Yes, even brake adjusting springs go bad and break when you least expect it, as it did to him. Some circles suggest that brake adjuster springs be replace every 2 to 3 years, or every 30,000 to 40,000 miles.

Things happen in all of our lives that are beyond our control.

Proper running gear care IS IN YOUR CONTROL.

Be safe, not sorry, when choosing running gear components. Dollars be damned.

Andy
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Old 05-20-2008, 11:11 PM   #6
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I have Henschen axels

Thanks you guys...Andy, do you have a part number? Are these seals so special that I CAN'T GET THEM IN SACRAMENTO? I have Henschen axels on my Classic and it sure seems to me there should be a grease seal for them. I'm switching to disc brakes later this summer when I can drop my Classic off at Inland but I have some trips planned this summer and don't want to chance spinning a bearing.

Mike
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Old 05-20-2008, 11:24 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flynmike
Thanks you guys...Andy, do you have a part number? Are these seals so special that I CAN'T GET THEM IN SACRAMENTO? I have Henschen axels on my Classic and it sure seems to me there should be a grease seal for them. I'm switching to disc brakes later this summer when I can drop my Classic off at Inland but I have some trips planned this summer and don't want to chance spinning a bearing.

Mike
Mike.

That part number on the seal is the same number that the factory uses.

412920.

It's sort of special to the RV industry and that's why auto parts stores don't have them.

Call tomorrow after about 10:30 am, and I will send you a set of 4, on the house.

Andy
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Old 05-20-2008, 11:34 PM   #8
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Wow!

Thanks Andy! I'll be happy to pay for them....I'm not sure how my day will play out but I'll be in touch during the day tomorrow...after 10:30.

Mike
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Old 06-03-2008, 10:00 AM   #9
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Great info!

As usual, the forum comes through with great info. I am about to head to the autoparts store for seals. But first I check the forum and get the real lowdown, including part #'s.

In Omaha I have previously gone to Precision Bearing and picked up seals for the '86 I had. So I expect I can score this time as well.

Thanks. Now I'm going to look for some "how to" to refresh my memory on the process. It's been a while.

Dwight
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Old 06-03-2008, 01:08 PM   #10
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While at Jackson Center 2 weeks ago I picked up the grease seals for $6.49 each which seemed fair.

The bearings on display had Timken numbers and seemed way over-priced at the Airstream store compared to a quick online check of Amazon or AdvanceAuto or Autozone.

Sears also has the Lisle Bearing Packer Detail Page for 34550 Handy Packer¬ģ Bearing Packer - Lisle Corporation for $25 that looks like it should do a great job flushing the old grease and injecting the new grease.
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Old 11-22-2008, 01:45 PM   #11
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I find that Autoparts seals or bearing seals work just fine in all aplications.

Just as long as the seals are the correct ones
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