UH -OH axle experts?

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by SilverHoot

2800# axle rating and 32 degree down angle

Is your trailer a single or double axle? 2800 is a bit light for a single axle, and if you have a double, the axles should be replaced in pairs, unless you recently replaced the other one.

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by ZoomZoom

You know your trailer had 12" brakes, why the change to 10"? .
Greg

This question has already been covered ad nauseum in other threads. There are strong opinions on both sides of the fence.

My .02 is 10" brakes on Dexters work just fine for my Tradewind. The brakes on a full size p/u would also be a plus for stopping power. I would go with 12" brakes on a Sovereign and maybe an Ambassador or Overlander.

[SilverHoot]

Originally Posted by overlander63

Is your trailer a single or double axle? 2800 is a bit light for a single axle, and if you have a double, the axles should be replaced in pairs, unless you recently replaced the other one.

My trailer is a tandem and I have 2 new 2800# Dexter axles. Unfortunately the mounts were not reversed as ordered.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by SilverHoot

My trailer is a tandem and I have 2 new 2800# Dexter axles. Unfortunately the mounts were not reversed as ordered.

A better weight rating would have been 3000 pounds and if you like to travel a little on the heavy side, 3200 pounds would have worked even better.

You can remove the shock brackets from the old axles and install them on the new axles.

I would not "EVER" suggested that you down grade the brakes to 10 inch.

That reduces your braking stopping power, and it will further reduce from that, as miles accumulate on the brakes as they will progressively become more and more out of adjustment.

Of course the "out of adjustment" does not apply to the new style "self adjusting" electric brakes.

Andy

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by SilverHoot

My trailer is a tandem and I have 2 new 2800# Dexter axles. Unfortunately the mounts were not reversed as ordered.

I forgot to add, that if you try to take the axle mounting brackets off with heat from a torch, the rubber rods will be destroyed.

You could cut the mounting brackets off with a fine grinder, however, the brackets would have to be welded back in place, which again will ruin the rubber rods.

The correct mounting plate outer dimension for your trailer is 57 7/8 inches.

Before you go too far with the project, what is the hub face to hub face dimension?

It looks like there is an excessive space between the axle mounting plate and the torsion arm.

Andy

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Lumatic

This question has already been covered ad nauseum in other threads. There are strong opinions on both sides of the fence.

My .02 is 10" brakes on Dexters work just fine for my Tradewind. The brakes on a full size p/u would also be a plus for stopping power. I would go with 12" brakes on a Sovereign and maybe an Ambassador or Overlander.

Brake size, typically, is not so much of a concern, when everything is working OK.

But, and as an example, if for whatever reason your tow vehicle brakes failed, and they do, not often, but they do fail, then the 10 inch brakes don't stand a chance to stop your entire rig, fast enough, since typically you would be caught off guard about the failure.

That's where the 12 inch brakes really show their stuff.

It's also a matter, and personal choice, as to how many back up's does a person feel comfortable with.

Some folks don't want any, as it's usually a waste of money for them, and many folks want as many backups and reserves that's practical. Safety to some people is very important.

Down grading the size of brakes when replacing axles, is, in most circles, not a good idea. Upgrading whenever possible, is a great idea.

The brakes cost the same on a new axle, be it 10 or 12 inch, so why down grade?

Andy

[SilverHoot]

Thanks Andy, 57 7/8" is the exact measurement I came up with and gave Dexter. I have the hub face at 77". Haven't checked the Dexters but will when my wife can help. Thing is I hauled my original axle to the Dexter dealer so that I would know the right axle was ordered. Wrong! I didn't downgrade on the brake intentionally, I believe it was a minimum of 3500# axle before you could get the 12" brakes. The brakes issue and has been well debated and discussed here on the forums. If $$$ were not an issue I would have bought Henschens with disc brakes. I know there should not be a price on safety but from my research the extra risk vs. $$$ from going to 10" brakes especially on a tandem was worth it to me. The original axles on my trailer were 2600# and I upgraded to 2800# I feel this will work well for me, but then again what I know has been obtained from research not practical knowledge. I try to make good decisions. I appreciate all opinions and feedback.

[CanoeStream]

Okay, so Jackson Center is installing Dexters on virtually everything new coming down the line. Right or wrong?

I had read something about tougher Canadian licensing specs only being satisfied by Dexters. So ... is the factory installing Dexters with 10" drums? Good enough for them?

Anyhoo... I'll still take the smartest tranny in the world for slowing my downhill descents.

Bob
'06 GMC Sierra, Duramax LBZ & Allison transmission

[Jim & Susan]

Hoot, I just looked thru my pics and can't find a good shot of the mounting brackets on the Dexters we installed last fall. If you need one, let me know. I can go out there and get it for you. May be tomorrow before it can be posted, tho.

Jim

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Brake size, typically, is not so much of a concern, when everything is working OK.

But, and as an example, if for whatever reason your tow vehicle brakes failed, and they do, not often, but they do fail, then the 10 inch brakes don't stand a chance to stop your entire rig, fast enough, since typically you would be caught off guard about the failure.

That's where the 12 inch brakes really show their stuff.

It's also a matter, and personal choice, as to how many back up's does a person feel comfortable with.

Some folks don't want any, as it's usually a waste of money for them, and many folks want as many backups and reserves that's practical. Safety to some people is very important.

Down grading the size of brakes when replacing axles, is, in most circles, not a good idea. Upgrading whenever possible, is a great idea.

The brakes cost the same on a new axle, be it 10 or 12 inch, so why down grade?

Andy

Touche Andy. Never thought of the possiblity, albeit remote, of having to use my trailer brakes to stop my whole rig.

IIRR Dexter 10" brakes are on a #10 axle. The 12" brakes are only available on #11 axles which do cost a bit more, and 3500# starting rating sounds about right. You used to be able to get the 12" brakes on #10 axles by special order, but when I ordered my Dexters 2 years ago you could not do that any longer.

[Inland RV Center, In]

There is an axle manufacturer that will put 12 inch brakes on axles rated as low as 2000 pounds.

Andy

[Jim & Susan]

Hoot, sorry I didn't get this posted up yesterday, dude. Can you see how the mount is welded on there? If not, I can try a side a side shot. It's really wet around the camper so I can't really crawl too far under there. We had snow this weekend.

Jim

[SilverHoot]

Jim,

Thanks a lot for the pic! It helps a lot. I also see that you have a shock mount. Did you order it that way or add it? Lumatic in an earlier post gave the option number that he used. On another note, my wife and I are flying out to spend a week in Greenville, SC. We're considering relocating.

[Jim & Susan]

Originally Posted by SilverHoot

Jim,

Thanks a lot for the pic! It helps a lot. I also see that you have a shock mount. Did you order it that way or add it? Lumatic in an earlier post gave the option number that he used. On another note, my wife and I are flying out to spend a week in Greenville, SC. We're considering relocating.

I took the shock mounts off of the old axles and PizzaChop welded them on the new axles for me. A lot of people on the forums will tell you not to do that because the heat generated will ruin the rubber in the new axles. When Ron was actually welding the mounts onto the arms, we checked for heat; there was almost no heat transmitted to the areas that might be "injured". Cool enough that you could easily touch it with your hand. Keep in mind that Ron had already done this on his own camper a couple of years ago with no ill effects, so I was comfortable with him working on mine.

What's the reason for the relocation to Greenville? Are you retiring? If so, check out Brevard, N. Carolina while you're here. It's about an hours' drive from Greenville up in the mountains. Susan's folks have a place up there and we spend a lot of time up there during the warm months. Beautiful place, nice and quite.

Jim

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Jim & Susan

I took the shock mounts off of the old axles and PizzaChop welded them on the new axles for me. A lot of people on the forums will tell you not to do that because the heat generated will ruin the rubber in the new axles. When Ron was actually welding the mounts onto the arms, we checked for heat; there was almost no heat transmitted to the areas that might be "injured". Cool enough that you could easily touch it with your hand. Keep in mind that Ron had already done this on his own camper a couple of years ago with no ill effects, so I was comfortable with him working on mine.
Jim

Jim.

I cannot speak for other torsion axle manufactures, but I can for Henschen.

Henschen has always added the shock brackets, by welding, after the axle is assembled.

As long as a normal welding process takes place, there is no need to be concerned about damaging the rubber rods.

I will try to post a photo, for your perusal.

Andy

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Jim & Susan

I took the shock mounts off of the old axles and PizzaChop welded them on the new axles for me. A lot of people on the forums will tell you not to do that because the heat generated will ruin the rubber in the new axles. When Ron was actually welding the mounts onto the arms, we checked for heat; there was almost no heat transmitted to the areas that might be "injured". Cool enough that you could easily touch it with your hand. Keep in mind that Ron had already done this on his own camper a couple of years ago with no ill effects, so I was comfortable with him working on mine.

Jim

Jim.

This photo will show a part of the torsion axle assembly process, that shows that the shock brackets have not, as yet, been welded in place.

Plant Tour: Axle Cord Deep Freezing

Hope this makes your day.

Andy 9.2

[SilverHoot]

Well after almost a week of the Dexter dealer trying to get Dexter to authorize new axles he had no resolution from them. He went ahead and ordered new axles and told me he would deal with Dexter. All I can say it is a good thing that I had the original order form that was faxed to Dexter stating what I had ordered and signed by me. Now I wait a month and hope they are correct.

[easyride]

Glad to hear the dealer is going to bat for you,that would really be the pits to have to build a utility trailer. Dave

[Lumatic]

Silver Hoot,
If you are having the axles redone. You might want to get a pair with a little higher rating. I think the original Henshens were 2600# I got 2900 pounders which are fine, but if I could do it over would have got 3000 pound axles. Also now is the time to get a different torsion bar angle. I got the original 22 degrees, which again is fine. When installed the top of my rims are level with the bottom of the fender and there is not as much problems with dragging the tail of a Tradewind as a longer trailer. But a lot of people have gone for the higher clearance of a 33 degree torsion arm angle.

[SilverHoot]

Lumatic,

I did in fact up the rating to 3000# and the down angle was originally ordered as 32 degrees down and is again ordered with 32 degree down. Now I just hope they are made to order this time! Thanks everybody.