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sequoiacoast · 11-27-2005, 12:44 PM

Well, we have returned from visiting our "new" 68 tradewind and here's what IS so far.... (we are picking her up next weekend)
Trailer lights plugged right in to our truck - no adapter- and they WORK!!! But the right side bulb burned out - can we get replacements at Kragen??
Tires: The tires are holding air, one is badly cracking, but the consensus is they'll get us to the tire shop. One tire shop says Marathons don't come load E, only load D. Another says Tow masters are made by Goodyear. We have to order them- not one store had them in stock (marathons that is). Which prevented us from taking her home yesterday

.
Axles: when the tire guys are changing out the tires (which we'll be monitorting the jacking situation) and packing the bearings... how can we tell the condition of the rubber rods? The torsion arm "test" seems easy enough... I'd like new axles eventually but for now $$$ is tight.
The trailer coupler(?): the latch is old and a little rusty. How can we tell if it's integrity is compromised?
Wrong forum but, the po filled the water tank, had the power working, but the pump switch didn't seem to activate the pump? I remember reading about this somewhere, but I'm tired....
Also, the windows: 2 need to be replaced (plexi-glass). And the rubber (gaskets?) around them are badly deteriorated. I think there's enough cushion to get us home?, but you all are more experienced. The latches are rusty but most funtion (except one).
Any help much appreciated. I AM so excited... I forgot my camera - next week. She needs a lot of love, oh boy...

sequoiacoast · 11-27-2005, 12:47 PM

The main door is not locked but all access doors are. The keys we were given (3) won't open any doors. All the locks accept two of the keys, but won't turn. Then there is a broken key that syas "Bargman"????? anyone?

davidz71 · 11-27-2005, 12:56 PM

Take the trailer to a locksmith or call a mobile locksmith and have him check your compartment locks. They may or may not be keyed the same. He should be able to make a key that fits the rest. I can't help with the main door but he should be able to handle that also. I have 2 complete sets of keys one of which is kept in the truck just in case I misplace the others and lock myself out.

**Stefrobrts** · 11-27-2005, 01:03 PM

I'd say don't worry about the axels for now. It's not like you can change them before you get home anyway. Even if they're stiff one ride shouldn't destroy anything, just take it easy. In fact the first ride home will be one of your best indicators of how well your axel is working.

Your water pump might just have had a wire come loose. It doesn't necessarily run when you turn the switch on, but it should when you open a faucet.

Make sure the coupler securely grabs the ball when it's on, and that you crank the jack back UP once it's fastened enough to see it start to lift the rear of the tow vehicle, then you know it's got the ball tight. There should also be a place to put a pin to hold the coupler closed while travelling.

Sounds like typical old trailer stuff. Hopefully you'll have a safe and uneventful trip home and can start tackling stuff like the window gaskets. 68's my favorite year

How far do you have to haul it?

overlander63 · 11-27-2005, 03:49 PM

Goodyear Marathons are only available in load range C and load range D, in ST225/75R15. Your coach should have D's on it, even if it has C's now, the difference in price is only about $5 per tire.
Try Whitely Tire on Commercial street, they should be able to get them for you.

sequoiacoast · 11-27-2005, 05:19 PM

We will travel @350 miles. I can't wait!

dwightdi · 11-27-2005, 05:53 PM

Bragman is the name of the manufacturer of the main door lock. It is expensive if it is broken. Locksmith should be able to cut you a new key after he disassembles the lock. If you could take it out and take it to him it would likely be cheaper. Sometimes it is almost cheaper to drill out the compartment locks and replace them depending on what your locksmitn charges. I would check the clips on the windows closely. The other windows most likely got broken because they fell out because the clips failed on the road. Some really strong duck tape might be in order to make sure you get home without breaking more. They are very expensive to replace in curved glass. If you are not sure the door will stay shut I would tape this also until I could get the door to lock and check for fit. You may need new shocks also after all these years. It is easy to check them, when you have the tires being changed and repacking the wheel bearings. You should also check for rusty brakes at the same time and make sure the activator surface on the flat part of the drum is clean and free of grease. If you do not have many hills back to your house you might be able to make the run without fixing the brakes.

Rog0525 · 11-27-2005, 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by overlander63

Your coach should have D's on it, even if it has C's now,

Terry, I'm curious as to why you make that reccommendation. If a 24' tandem axle trailer has survived 37 years by riding on 6-ply (C) tires, why change to stiffer 8-ply (D) tires?
I'm quite sure that Inland Andy has posted information to the contrary, or at least advised that if the steel rims have been in service for some time with "C" tires, they should be replaced with new rims to safely accomodate the higher PSI of the D load rating.
If a vintage trailer has been running on 6-ply tires, I would think it best to stay with those, at least until the old axles are replaced, but I'll appreciate any enlightenment.

overlander63 · 11-28-2005, 05:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rog0525

Terry, I'm curious as to why you make that reccommendation. If a 24' tandem axle trailer has survived 37 years by riding on 6-ply (C) tires, why change to stiffer 8-ply (D) tires?
I'm quite sure that Inland Andy has posted information to the contrary, or at least advised that if the steel rims have been in service for some time with "C" tires, they should be replaced with new rims to safely accomodate the higher PSI of the D load rating.
If a vintage trailer has been running on 6-ply tires, I would think it best to stay with those, at least until the old axles are replaced, but I'll appreciate any enlightenment.

Rog, I should have added, "as long as you inflate the D tires to the C pressure." I have had "C" tires come apart, in fact, two of them last week (yes, they were Marathons). I have had far fewer problems with the D tires, which is why I made the recommendation.
IIRC, load range C has an inflation of 50 PSI. Vintage trailers have been running on load range C bias ply tires, radials are a bit different.
Of course, if someone wanted to use the bias ply tires, then C's would be perfectly fine, as they don't have steel belts to shift and separate.
And the radials will tend to have a little softer ride, important to keep dmage to a minimum if you have marginal axles.

overlander63 · 11-28-2005, 05:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 65GT

You guys are dealing with newer trailers than I have. When did AS switch from 700.15's to ST anything? I don't have the clearance on the '53 or the '65 and unless they officially switched before '68 I can't imagine anyone has the clearance that radial flex would have to even go there.

Do we know when AS went from the old 700.15's to radials?

__

As far as changing over to ST's, that would have been at the earliest in 1980, as I have found original 7.00x15's on two 1979's.

As far as anyone having the clearance for radials, I have them on my '63 Overlander, and have had zero problems, in about 3000 miles so far.

85MH325 · 11-28-2005, 05:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sequoiacoast

The trailer coupler(?): the latch is old and a little rusty. How can we tell if it's integrity is compromised?
Wrong forum but, the po filled the water tank, had the power working, but the pump switch didn't seem to activate the pump? ...

First, you'll need a 2 5/16" ball rather than the more common 2" ball on your hitch as I believe that's what your '68 uses. After you attach the tongue to the hitch ball and close the top latch, use the tongue jack to jack the trailer and tow vehicle up several inches. You'll see the weight come off of the hitch where both the tongue and the tow vehicle are in a neutral position, and then the trailer tongue should begin to lift the weight of the tow vehicle by the hitch ball. If you can raise the tow vehicle rear end by a couple of inches with the tongue jack, then the hitch coupler is sound. If the coupler needs to be replaced or isn't properly closed, it'll drop the the hitch ball out when you raise it. Coupler spoons are adjustable to some extent by tightening a nut found in the bottom of the coupler. I would also recommend that you buy a small bottle of ball lube and use it sparingly.

Having had a 'new to me' 1978 fiberglass trailer jump the hitch at 60 mph on rough roads last year due to a worn coupler, I can attest that this is a particularly important area to examine!

Regarding the water pump... there could be a variety of causes for the pump not appearing to come on, none of them too serious or expensive to repair. After you get the trailer home, let us know what kind of pump you have and what it's actually doing, and we'll have a better chance of troubleshooting it accurately for you.

FWIW in '68, your trailer would have come with a PAR diaphragm water pump. The good news is that they are easily rebuildable. The bad news is that they need to be rebuilt every so often to work reliably. Most have long since been replaced by Sur-flo or similar pumps as they're inexpensive to buy and easy to replace.

Good luck getting it home!

Roger

sequoiacoast · 11-28-2005, 09:47 AM

The tradewind has goodyear load Ds on her right now. I don't know the age of them. The po never took the coach anywhere. And the po before him, I believe, either lived in her or just parked her also. I have been reading all the tire stuff on the forum, and it quite frankly scares me. As I've never given that much thought to tires... Here's some lame ?s: Tubeless, what's that? Radials? definition. Needing new wheels - how do I know when that time has come? And, I like going beefy, spending more $$, but like I've been reading- perhaps you don't want to over-do it! So if I put Ds on rims that are most likely original and axels that have sat & sat... can I be reasonably confident in our safe ride home (on a VERY curvy 101 through the redwoods??) P.S. this forum rocks!!

sequoiacoast · 11-28-2005, 09:55 AM

Oh yeah, the hitch ball size is 2''. The larger ball we tried - one the po thought was given to him with the tradewind - did not fit. We bought a 2" and it seemed to hold good. When we were there we brought her down the POs steeps MUDDY drive (last minute decision) in case it rained (more)when we come back this weekend. We have a draw-tite controller which did not come with a manual... and must have been set too high(??) because the trailer wheels were locking up on the slide down. We of course will get a manual before actually going anywhere, but just thought I'd throw this info out there and see what comes back..

sequoiacoast · 11-28-2005, 01:56 PM

I posted some more about the hitch ball, somewhere... I'm sorry. Valley industries is the brand... can we add sway control and weight distribution? The ball is rated 6000lbs and 600 loaded tongue. Anyone know the tongue weight for a 1968 Tradwind? Sorry for the extended (and maybe duplicated) posts!!!

dustyrhodes · 11-28-2005, 09:06 PM

SQC
Congratulations and good luck with your Tradewind. I also have a weight distribution/sway control question. I picked my Overlander up in Tampa, FL. It was the first time I had ever pulled a trailer. In the trip back I had no problems with the trailer swaying regardless of who passed me or what bridge, twist or turn that I negotiated. At present my silver baby is in the auto hobby shop on post which is my new home away from home. I have pulled the Overlander around town and also had no problems. Which brings me to my question. Is the weight distribution and sway control necessary? I am all for safety and have been hemorrhaging dollars since I picked her up in August. Never loved a project more. Friends who do not own Airstreams ( and I do pity them ) seem to think that I am AS obsessed. Do others also have problems with friends instantly glazing over when even the word Air is spoken, even before the word Stream can be uttered?

Rog0525 · 11-28-2005, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dustyrhodes

Is the weight distribution and sway control necessary?

Not if you are going to camp in your driveway. If you're going to frequemtly tow your trailer in traffic and heavy winds or being passed by big rigs, you will definitely want WD and sway control, no matter the size of your rig.

dwightdi · 11-28-2005, 09:54 PM

The need for weight distribution and antisway equipment depends on the relative size of your tow vehcile and size of your trailer. I have towed with 3/4 ton vans for 20 years. Always had to turn into passing trucks to keep from getting blown off the road. We towed my 26 footer with reese 750 lb bars with frictional dampener. Worked fairly well. We towed the 31 footer for 20,000 miles with Reese with 1000 bars and twin cam. Worked fairly well. Two years ago we bought a 350 one ton dually. Pulled the 31 footer for 10,000 miles with same rig. Worked really well. Hardly knew it was back there. Trucks passing do not even phase it. Pulled the 26 footer without the equalizer bars. Worked really well with no sway or truck passing problems. I still think I will keep the twin cams for the big trailer. Cams are not effective unless you are really transfering some weight with the bars.

overlander63 · 11-29-2005, 06:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sequoiacoast

I posted some more about the hitch ball, somewhere... I'm sorry. Valley industries is the brand... can we add sway control and weight distribution? The ball is rated 6000lbs and 600 loaded tongue. Anyone know the tongue weight for a 1968 Tradwind? Sorry for the extended (and maybe duplicated) posts!!!

You can purchase an 8,000 pound capacity trailer ball, the difference is in the shank (the bolt that holds it to the hitch). Weight ditstribution and sway control of some kind would be mandatory, especially for a 350 mile trip. You can get used hitch eqipment from our forum classifieds, or even Ebay. If you don't have time to wait for the stuff to get to you, you will have to bite the bullet and get new.
We have 750 pound weight distribution bars and a friction bar type sway control for our trailer, with a 3/4 ton van. How heavy your WD bars should be, depends on how heavy the trailer is, and how heavy duty your tow vehicle is.
1968 Tradewind has a dry weight of 4000 pounds, and a tongue weight of 445 pounds. Also, weight distribution is required on any trailer with a tongue weight over 350 pounds.
As far as your tires, why not get them near where you live, take them with you, and have them mounted and balanced on the wheels when you get there? We did this, and were glad we did. It should cost about $20/tire to do this, maybe less if you find a momand pop place. As far as worrying about condition of wheels, as long as they are not sseverely rusted, and pitted with rust, especially in the bead area, they should be just fine to use. Just make sure they are not cracked, or severely bent.

sequoiacoast · 11-30-2005, 09:58 AM

Just for clarification and a final opportunity for input before our trip...tomorrow! : Marathons load D set to 50psi? We will have our bearings packed by the tire guys... GREASE SEALS- is it likely that the tire guys have 'em (standard) or are they different for an older coach, or is there a prefered brand/kind I should bring with me?
We are pulling the coach with a '04 2500 Silverado Duramax Diesel: any suggestions on sway/WD, so I "know" what #s I'm after?? The local RV places carry Easy Lift, but can order Reese. The Bay Area may be easier to get Reese? Thanks so much, it's an adventure already...

**Stefrobrts** · 11-30-2005, 10:51 AM

We had no problem getting the grease seals for my trailer. The local parts store had them on the shelf. So it should be no problem for your tire guys to get them (hopefully).

I'll let someone else advise you on the hitch. That's really opening up a whole can of worms. Around here it's like asking someone to recommend a religeon!

Good luck, and I hope you have a safe and uneventful trip!