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Old 11-28-2005, 09:06 PM   #15
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1977 27' Overlander
Huntsville , Alabama
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 48
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Congratulations and good luck with your Tradewind. I also have a weight distribution/sway control question. I picked my Overlander up in Tampa, FL. It was the first time I had ever pulled a trailer. In the trip back I had no problems with the trailer swaying regardless of who passed me or what bridge, twist or turn that I negotiated. At present my silver baby is in the auto hobby shop on post which is my new home away from home. I have pulled the Overlander around town and also had no problems. Which brings me to my question. Is the weight distribution and sway control necessary? I am all for safety and have been hemorrhaging dollars since I picked her up in August. Never loved a project more. Friends who do not own Airstreams ( and I do pity them ) seem to think that I am AS obsessed. Do others also have problems with friends instantly glazing over when even the word Air is spoken, even before the word Stream can be uttered?

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Old 11-28-2005, 09:29 PM   #16
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1966 20' Globetrotter
Saginaw County , Michigan
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 1,555
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Originally Posted by dustyrhodes
Is the weight distribution and sway control necessary?
Not if you are going to camp in your driveway. If you're going to frequemtly tow your trailer in traffic and heavy winds or being passed by big rigs, you will definitely want WD and sway control, no matter the size of your rig.


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Old 11-28-2005, 09:54 PM   #17
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1977 31' Sovereign
1963 26' Overlander
1989 34' Excella
Johnsburg , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,941
The need for weight distribution and antisway equipment depends on the relative size of your tow vehcile and size of your trailer. I have towed with 3/4 ton vans for 20 years. Always had to turn into passing trucks to keep from getting blown off the road. We towed my 26 footer with reese 750 lb bars with frictional dampener. Worked fairly well. We towed the 31 footer for 20,000 miles with Reese with 1000 bars and twin cam. Worked fairly well. Two years ago we bought a 350 one ton dually. Pulled the 31 footer for 10,000 miles with same rig. Worked really well. Hardly knew it was back there. Trucks passing do not even phase it. Pulled the 26 footer without the equalizer bars. Worked really well with no sway or truck passing problems. I still think I will keep the twin cams for the big trailer. Cams are not effective unless you are really transfering some weight with the bars.
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Old 11-29-2005, 06:38 AM   #18
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1993 21' Sovereign
Colfax , North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 20,364
Originally Posted by sequoiacoast
I posted some more about the hitch ball, somewhere... I'm sorry. Valley industries is the brand... can we add sway control and weight distribution? The ball is rated 6000lbs and 600 loaded tongue. Anyone know the tongue weight for a 1968 Tradwind? Sorry for the extended (and maybe duplicated) posts!!!
You can purchase an 8,000 pound capacity trailer ball, the difference is in the shank (the bolt that holds it to the hitch). Weight ditstribution and sway control of some kind would be mandatory, especially for a 350 mile trip. You can get used hitch eqipment from our forum classifieds, or even Ebay. If you don't have time to wait for the stuff to get to you, you will have to bite the bullet and get new.
We have 750 pound weight distribution bars and a friction bar type sway control for our trailer, with a 3/4 ton van. How heavy your WD bars should be, depends on how heavy the trailer is, and how heavy duty your tow vehicle is.
1968 Tradewind has a dry weight of 4000 pounds, and a tongue weight of 445 pounds. Also, weight distribution is required on any trailer with a tongue weight over 350 pounds.
As far as your tires, why not get them near where you live, take them with you, and have them mounted and balanced on the wheels when you get there? We did this, and were glad we did. It should cost about $20/tire to do this, maybe less if you find a momand pop place. As far as worrying about condition of wheels, as long as they are not sseverely rusted, and pitted with rust, especially in the bead area, they should be just fine to use. Just make sure they are not cracked, or severely bent.
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
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Old 11-30-2005, 09:58 AM   #19
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1968 24' Tradewind
Eureka , California
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 694
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Just for clarification and a final opportunity for input before our trip...tomorrow! : Marathons load D set to 50psi? We will have our bearings packed by the tire guys... GREASE SEALS- is it likely that the tire guys have 'em (standard) or are they different for an older coach, or is there a prefered brand/kind I should bring with me?
We are pulling the coach with a '04 2500 Silverado Duramax Diesel: any suggestions on sway/WD, so I "know" what #s I'm after?? The local RV places carry Easy Lift, but can order Reese. The Bay Area may be easier to get Reese? Thanks so much, it's an adventure already...
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Old 11-30-2005, 10:51 AM   #20
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1968 17' Caravel
Battle Ground , Washington
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We had no problem getting the grease seals for my trailer. The local parts store had them on the shelf. So it should be no problem for your tire guys to get them (hopefully).

I'll let someone else advise you on the hitch. That's really opening up a whole can of worms. Around here it's like asking someone to recommend a religeon!

Good luck, and I hope you have a safe and uneventful trip!

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Old 11-30-2005, 11:26 AM   #21
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Corona , California
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A 68 trailer could have the National grease seal # 292100.

That seal was an OEM seal to Airstream, and it was made with a felt seal.

A auto parts store will not have that seal, or a replacement.

A replacement was made for that seal, at almost half the cost.

The replacement seal part # is 10125, and costs $22.95. It is double lipped neoprene with a spring as well.

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Old 12-02-2005, 06:21 PM   #22
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1968 24' Tradewind
Eureka , California
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Well I am here picking up the tradewind and it has been quite a trip- more on that later (in the appropriate forum?). Grease seals, yes indeed the coach had the original (?) 292100s. Because of the heads-up, I called and asked locally if they could get me the seal to "replace" the 292100. They didn't have them in-stock but could get them overnight. So I figured I was all set. WRONG.
I was assuming it was the same seal Inland RV had, and since I was leaving the day it was to come in, I purchased and left town. The "replacement" does NOT match. One of the dimensions is off- so no go. But oh well. We are "stuck" here until they come overnight FROM INLAND RV and can be installed Monday.
Thank you to ANDY for providing me a way out... Now I know what I have and what I will need in the future. Oh, and where to get them!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 12-02-2005, 07:25 PM   #23
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1968 17' Caravel
Battle Ground , Washington
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I was able to take the original seal to the auto parts store and match it up with one that fit. Sorry to hear you weren't so lucky! Have a safe trip home and I'm looking forward to reading the whole adventure.

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Old 12-05-2005, 10:51 AM   #24
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1966 26' Overlander
Phoenix , Arizona
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I did the same at Napa. Brought them the old seal and now have the part # written down somewhere. Most cities have a Napa somewhere.


1966 Mercury Park Lane 4 DR Breezeway 410 4V, C-6, 2.80 - Streamless.
1966 Lincoln 4 door Convertible 462 4V 1971 Ford LTD Convertible 429 4V Phoenix ~ Yeah it's hot however it's a dry heat!
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