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Old 05-23-2008, 08:57 PM   #15
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Variable Void Reducer

I ordered my Dexters from the factory and got them in about a week. Dexter was very helpful and patient with me making sure I got the measurements right. Here is what I got:
#10 axles rated at 2900#
10" hubs with electric brakes
6 x 5 1/2 lug pattern
high profile reverse mounting bracket with reverse orientation
shock mount option
22 1/2 down start angle
33" wire leads
ez lube hubs

The only thing is ( I'll say ahead of time you warned me Andy) the mounting flange measurements are not exactly what I ordered, not exactly square and both axles flange distances are slightly different. The distance between the flanges varies. The differences vary from front of the mounting flange to rear by about 1/16" and the overall width is between 1/16 and 3/16" overall shorter than what I ordered.

The way I figure it the difference when split between both sides of the axle amounts to 1/32 to 3/32" and better a little shorter than too long. Hopefully I can pull the fishplate in flush when I torque it in and if worse comes to worse I can shim it. Before I start drilling and humping does anybody have a dissenting opinion or suggestions?
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Old 05-23-2008, 09:18 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumatic
I ordered my Dexters from the factory and got them in about a week. Dexter was very helpful and patient with me making sure I got the measurements right. Here is what I got:
#10 axles rated at 2900#
10" hubs with electric brakes
6 x 5 1/2 lug pattern
high profile reverse mounting bracket with reverse orientation
shock mount option
22 1/2 down start angle
33" wire leads
ez lube hubs

The only thing is ( I'll say ahead of time you warned me Andy) the mounting flange measurements are not exactly what I ordered, not exactly square and both axles flange distances are slightly different. The distance between the flanges varies. The differences vary from front of the mounting flange to rear by about 1/16" and the overall width is between 1/16 and 3/16" overall shorter than what I ordered.

The way I figure it the difference when split between both sides of the axle amounts to 1/32 to 3/32" and better a little shorter than too long. Hopefully I can pull the fishplate in flush when I torque it in and if worse comes to worse I can shim it. Before I start drilling and humping does anybody have a dissenting opinion or suggestions?
Your axle ratings should have been 3200 pounds each, or at least, 3000 pounds.

35 degrees starting angle, give the trailer more ground clearance.

More importantly, new 10 inch brakes, "perfectly" adjusted, are only good for 7000 pounds stopping power, but they don't stay that way, because owners do not adjust them periodically.

!2 inch brakes, similar to what your Airstream originally had, perfectly adjusted, have 10,400 pounds of stopping power. They don't stay that way either, but they will come far closer to getting the job done, any day of the week.

The big question is how do you stop your entire rig, "if" the tow vehicle brakes quit?

Certainly the 10" is very inadequate, and the 12 inch will get the job done.

I also don't understand why a manufacturer insists on 10 inch brakes, when the cost for the 10 inch and 12 inch, are the same.

To me, there is a great difference between "squeaking by" and getting the job done, when it comes to braking power.

Next is heat generated by the brakes when stopping.

Obviously, the larger the brake surface, the cooler they will be when stopping the same total rig weight.

I also believe that Dexter provides a "take it or leave it" design.

We provide equal to or better than the original axle design, and "never" inferior to it.


Andy
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Old 05-23-2008, 09:33 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumatic
... the mounting flange measurements are not exactly what I ordered, not exactly square and both axles flange distances are slightly different. The distance between the flanges varies. The differences vary from front of the mounting flange to rear by about 1/16" and the overall width is between 1/16 and 3/16" overall shorter than what I ordered.

The way I figure it the difference when split between both sides of the axle amounts to 1/32 to 3/32" and better a little shorter than too long. Hopefully I can pull the fishplate in flush when I torque it in and if worse comes to worse I can shim it. Before I start drilling and humping does anybody have a dissenting opinion or suggestions?
Don't worry about it. I believe the Airstream frame has worse tolerances than your new axles. I dropped the "defacto standard" factory axles from under my trailer and the frame mounting plates spread by 3/16". Stick the new ones under and torque the bolts, everything will pull into place. I sure you will be thrilled with the new setup.
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Old 05-23-2008, 09:51 PM   #18
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Maybe I'll find out the hard way

Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
We provide equal to or better than the original axle design, and "never" inferior to it.


Andy
Andy may very well be right and I certainly don't claim to be more knowledgeable than he.

Respectfully, my only response is $ certainly was a factor for my choice, but not the only factor. I spent a lot of time listening to all the information I could get and concluded, rightly or wrongly, the Dexters are more than up to the job and are not a poor second cloice. I am not saying that Dexters are better than Henshens.

What I concluded is that the 2900# axles with 10" brakes will do the job on my 4200# Tradwind even loaded with 1000# pounds of extras. I considered going to a higher rating but the original Henshens were rated at 2600# and to me the risk of damage from too stiff an axle is greater than too soft. I loaded that puppy up with full tanks, fridge and all my camping junk, more than I would ever tow, and took it to the scales and weighed in at 5500#.I chose not to increase the start angle because 22 1/2 degrees seemed just about right without dragging my tailfeathers, raising the center of gravity or making changes to my hitch.

If I have made a poor choice I will be sure to post it so others may not make the same mistake, and if the axles work out as I think they will I will do the same.
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Old 05-28-2008, 08:14 PM   #19
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Dexter Mounting Flange Measurements

I asked Dexter and got an answer about the axle mounting flange not being exactly the dimension I ordered. FYI I got a prompt answer from Dexter saying the factory allows the mounting flange distance to be up to 1/8" smaller than the ordered spec but not larger. I was able to add some custom made negative space articulators to fill the void but it was a little extra work.

I don't know if Henshens are made to any less tolerances, but it is a point I thought I would mention for forum consideration.
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Old 05-31-2008, 07:23 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumatic
I asked Dexter and got an answer about the axle mounting flange not being exactly the dimension I ordered. FYI I got a prompt answer from Dexter saying the factory allows the mounting flange distance to be up to 1/8" smaller than the ordered spec but not larger. I was able to add some custom made negative space articulators to fill the void but it was a little extra work.

I don't know if Henshens are made to any less tolerances, but it is a point I thought I would mention for forum consideration.
Henschen axles, from 1969 and up, are guaranteed, to fit exactly.

All that is needed for replacements, is the trailer serial number.

Andy
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Old 05-31-2008, 07:54 PM   #21
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I have new axles coming, I will try to take some pic's of in and out. Hey Guys Lets just see how much problem an old feller of 70 yrs young does with a pair of Henshens. STAY TUNED! Andy knows Im a man of my word and I will report it honestly.
Roger
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Old 06-05-2008, 09:32 PM   #22
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Question new axle alignment

Hey, do brand new Dexter axles usually need to be aligned? So far I only changed out one of my 2 axles, and yes I am doing them both. After being up on the blocks and doing some other stuff on the belly pan I pulled the coach off the blocks and noticed the camber on one wheel on one side is different than the camber on the other wheel on that side (one new axle one old). I have not noticed any unusual tire wear on the tire on the old axle. I used a floor jack in the middle of the new axle to get the axle in an approximate position and got the axle in final position with a bottle jack on each side. I don't think I over did it jacking it up, but I've never done this kind of thing before. Could I have made a big boo boo and jacked up the floor jack too much? I would like to think the brand new axle is aligned properly by the factory and the excessive camber is more likely on the old 37 year old axle. The service manual says "camber is the smallest offender of alignment problems since it has to be extremely out of tolerance before any great tire wear is noticed".
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Old 06-05-2008, 09:41 PM   #23
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I have noticed that my new axles seem to let the tires move around more than the old if the load is uneven. Its therefore possible that your new axle is loaded funny because of the worn old one. I suspect that during installation a floor jack would have to push pretty had to deflect the new axle past it's point of elasticity and permanately deform.
Stick in the second axle and park on a level spot, all tires will probably look normal!
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Old 06-05-2008, 09:55 PM   #24
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When All Else Fails, Read the Destructions

Just looked up axle removal and replacement in the service manual. Says use a floor jack in the middle of the axle
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