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Old 05-31-2005, 11:22 PM   #15
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Mine came in last wednesday, it took about 4 days longer than ups would have.. Dave (the guy at all right rv ) said that ups usualy wont take an axle if the hub and brakes are attached ... I dunno ? ...They were too bussy to get to it befor the weekend... and they were closed for three days but i did drive by to see if they had it locked up and it is ... behind a 6 ft chain link with wire on top... and they put it all the way in the back...can't hardly see it from the street...i'm going to try to get over there this week for some befor photo's but my work schedule is getting crazy...the hours are realy adding up... can't get there befor closeing time.
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Old 06-01-2005, 08:39 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by pattersontoo
As for your frozen axle.... YIKES
That has got to be painful!
It makes for an interesting ride, to say the least. The front axle still has some "give" to it, but the rear one just kind of stays in one place, whether it is on the ground, or off the ground. Instead of flexing so the trailer will ride smoothly it allows the trailer and tow vehicle flex...
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Old 06-01-2005, 08:52 AM   #17
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interesting graphic, Lou. what's the deal w/ these things? I've heard it said here that some don't like the idea of that entire area being packed w/ grease, as it doesn't dissipate the heat well enough. (?) or something like that??? does this type of hub/spindle eliminate the need to repack bearings?

I think it may be time for me, as well. I had new tires put on last week. they raised the trailer by jacking on the axle mounting plate, right in between the wheels. when the trailer raised, the wheels did not droop down at all when the weight was removed from them. the arms just stayed horizontal. (which I thought meant "still ok"...not pointing up, but that only counts when the weight is ON the axles. ). Seems that they've pretty much lost most of their spring. now, to find the $$$$ the more difficult task will be to convice the Mrs. maybe lots of these:

Now I wonder....there was another report here recently of a window spontaneously shattering on the highway. there have been quite a few in the past, and I've talked to other non-forum members that have experienced the same thing. seems odd that a side window would just shatter for no reason. but the bodies of these silver palaces are very "live" going down the hiway, with lots of movement. lots of flexing going on. but a rigid piece of safety glass won't flex much...wondering if there is a link between worn axles and broken glass.
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Old 06-01-2005, 11:57 AM   #18
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Talking Safe-T-Lube Overview

Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
interesting graphic, Lou. what's the deal w/ these things? does this type of hub/spindle eliminate the need to repack bearings?
Chuck,



The Safe-T-Lube system does several things. It allows you to monitor grease levels quickly by removing the rubber cap plug. If additional grease is needed, a hand grease gun can be attached to the grease zerk on the end of the spindle. Additionally, it allows you to change grease without disassembly. It does NOT allow you to bypass routine bearing inspections; they still need to be inspected at regular intervals.



Here is a brief overview:

Remove rubber plug. Attach a hand operated grease gun to the zerk. Hold a shop/paper towel at the bottom of the cap. As the grease gun is pumped the grease will be pumped through the spindle and will enter the hub at the rear, just forward of the grease seal but to the backside of the rear bearing. It will continue to flow (by pumping the gun) until the grease reaches the front bearing and then begins to flow out of the cap onto the catch rag. The grease gun should be pumped until clean new grease is seen coming out onto the rag. The rag will now contain almost, if not all of the old grease and can be discarded. You hub is now full of fresh grease, plug the cap and move on. This is what the animation is depicting.



I hope this helps,

Henry
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Old 06-01-2005, 01:24 PM   #19
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i have saf t lube hubs on my well cargo 20 footer. dexter axles.

they do run hot when filled with grease vs. hand packing the bearings.

i have tried it both ways with this trailer and prefer packing them by hand, this feature might be better for boat trailers than over the road rigs.

i'm not saying anything bad about the system, just that it does run hotter.

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Old 06-01-2005, 01:47 PM   #20
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Safe-T-Lube System

That system is great for Boat trailers.

However, is becomes a very different story for trailers that have electric brakes.

If for "any reason"the cavity is over filled, or the grease seal allows some grease to pass, then that grease will indeed get on the magnets and shoes.

Once that happens, the magnet surface and shoes will absorb some of the grease. Any attempt to remove that grease is usually fruitless. You cannot remove all the grease that has imbedded itself in the pores of the magnet face or the shoes.

Once the magnet and shoes become warm, the grease will once again surface. Again and again.

The bottom line, is that packing the bearings by hand, as well as periodic inspection of the bearings, is the only safe way to go, along with automatically replacing the grease seals.

Using the Safe-T-Lube is risky at best, when the trailer has brakes.

If the trailer has no brakes, then the Safe-T-Lube works great.

Andy
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Old 06-01-2005, 02:23 PM   #21
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Not to stir the pot but don't boat trailers go down the road too? Don't they gain heat too?
I was taught that the bearing buddy grease caps were harmful due to the fact that it was a "positive pressure" lube system.
I do know that the through the spindle system is exposed to the outside pressure as there is no air tight seal between the zerk fitting and the king-nut.
I know that nothing beats regualr maintenance but boat trailers travel down the road as well.
I also am a firm believer in replacing my grease seals but I do it at a cost of two bucks a seal.
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Old 06-01-2005, 02:29 PM   #22
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not to try to speak for Andy, but he said "trailers w/ brakes", and alot of boat trailers, smaller one's especially, don't have brakes. greasy brakes:bad. I can see that. greasy wheels....not so bad.
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Old 06-01-2005, 02:30 PM   #23
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If you do a search I believe we already went around and around about this last year...
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Old 06-01-2005, 02:41 PM   #24
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Grease seals

There are many kinds of grease seals, all with the same dimensions.

There are single lip seals. Fair.

There are single lip seals with springs. Good.

There are double lip seals. Better.

There are double lip seals with springs. Best.

As with anything, a person can chose the quality that suits their life style or budget.

The cheap seals are indeed cheap, and so is their performance.

The best seals, are not cheap, at least not by Airstream standards, as they have stood the test of time.

Cheap seals are known to leak in short order, that's a fact that any RV shop can confirm.

Expensive grease seals last far more than the 10,000 mile intervals, between bearing repacks.

Since safety is the real issue, each person must weigh how important safety is to them.

Andy
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Old 06-01-2005, 03:07 PM   #25
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I found high quality, double lip, spring loaded seals at http://lowcosttrailersupplies.com/ for $1.69 each.

They don't need to be expensive to be good. It does take some searching.

The seals were listed for E-Z lube ends. In this case, that means they have the double lip and spring, but they fit perfectly on regular hubs.
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Old 06-01-2005, 04:29 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
I found high quality, double lip, spring loaded seals at http://lowcosttrailersupplies.com/ for $1.69 each.

They don't need to be expensive to be good. It does take some searching.

The seals were listed for E-Z lube ends. In this case, that means they have the double lip and spring, but they fit perfectly on regular hubs.
I found the same ones.
I guess that would make them "Best" grease seals. But since they are $1.69 would that change their quality?
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Old 06-01-2005, 07:59 PM   #27
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$1.69 Seals

Yes, I looked at the WEB site and they do have seals at $1.69, and they also have seals that cost $26.00.
No origin of manufacture, no guarantee of quality or performance.
I will stick with name brands when it comes to the safety of my family and
my trailer.
Frugality has its place, I don't personally feel this is the place I would practice it.
Axle failure or brake failure is too dangerous to play with.
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Old 06-01-2005, 08:27 PM   #28
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Yes, I looked at the WEB site and they do have seals at $1.69, and they also have seals that cost $26.00.
No origin of manufacture, no guarantee of quality or performance.
I will stick with name brands when it comes to the safety of my family and
my trailer.
Frugality has its place, I don't personally feel this is the place I would practice it.
Axle failure or brake failure is too dangerous to play with.
Geez-A-Lou man.
I have BOUGHT replacement grease seals FROM a DEXTER dealer for DEXTER drums for $1.69 myself!
I have replaced the grease seals on the rear drums of cars and trucks and I have NEVER paid more than $4 for a grease seal. I DRIVE the car AND the truck on a regular basis. I DO NOT pull the trailer anywhere NEAR what I drive my family vehicles. Do you spend $26 on the grease seals on your tow vehicle?
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