Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 

Go Back   Airstream Forums > Airstream Restoration, Repair & Parts Forums > Running Gear - Axles, Brakes, Wheels & Tires > Axles
Click Here to Login
Register Vendors FAQ Community Calendar Today's Posts Search Log in

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 02-01-2013, 12:44 PM   #1
2 Rivet Member
 
1971 21' Globetrotter
Redondo Beach , California
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 31
Putting the drums on the new axle

So I put the new axle on, and cleaned up the wheel wells nicely, and now for the final brakes etc assembly. Here's what I intend to do; Help me out if I'm about to do anything wrong...

-Bolt on the drum backing plates with brakes installed, torque the 5 nuts to 100ft-lbs
-grease inner and outer bearings, put them on the drum, install grease seal on inner side
-lube up spindle, slide the drum all the way snug
-put on castle nut, torque to 45ft-lbs, put in cotter pin
-put on outer grease cap
-slide on Centramatic balancers, put on wheels
-go camping

Am I missing anything?



BenHud is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2013, 01:04 PM   #2
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
You need to back off the 45 ft-lbs on the nut. Usually you torque to a high value while spinning the wheel and then back off about 1/4 of a turn. If you leave the bearings tight they will overheat when they get hot and expand a little. Better a little too much clearance than too little. I would use a good Moly based grease. Do you have a bearing packer that will fill the bearings full of grease? When you get all of it together you need to adjust the brakes so that the wheel locks then back off till there is just a slight drag. Road test and make sure you don't have any wheels that lock before the others. Make sure all braking surfaces are grease free.

Perry
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2013, 01:27 PM   #3
2 Rivet Member
 
1971 21' Globetrotter
Redondo Beach , California
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 31
Thanks for the advice on the how much to tighten the nut. I do have a bearing packer. The brakes are the self-adjusting kind, so I was thinking I just have to assemble it all and they would adjust while I'm reversing.
bh
BenHud is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2013, 01:34 PM   #4
retired USA/USAF
 
2001 30' Excella
Somerset , New Jersey
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,418
Perry has said it all. But, you don't need a bearing packer to do the job. If you have access to one they work great but bearings have been packed for years by hand. Clean the bearings well and put some grease in the palm of your hand and rub the bearings back & forth until you see grease squeezing through to the inside all around. Messy but easy. If you plan to do it frequently and / or have other machinery that needs bearings done invest in a packer. But don't be afraid to do it without one. When you back off the castle nut just go back until you can get the cotter pin in the groove. Grab the wheel top and bottom and wiggle it. A little play is good. No play at all is probably too tight.
When on the road I check the wheels at every stop. Just walk around and put your hand on the hub. You'll know if its too hot. No mistaking that one. Warm is OK, Hot is not.
__________________
Roger in NJ

" Democracy is the worst form of government. Except for all the rest"
Winston Churchill 1948

TAC - NJ 18

polarlyse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2013, 02:48 PM   #5
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
If you are referring to the 5 bolts that hold the backing plate. 100#'s of torque is WAY TOO MUCH. 40#'s is plenty.
The spindle nut should be tightened just beyond finger tight, then backed off until you can get the cotter key in the castle nut and thru the hole in the end of the spindle.
As mentioned above, TOO TIGHT IS WORSE THAN A LITTLE LOSE.
There are a number of videos on YouTube demonstrating the process.
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2013, 03:46 PM   #6
retired USA/USAF
 
2001 30' Excella
Somerset , New Jersey
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,418
I would do an adjustment when you first install them manually. If the shoes do not contact the drum when applied there will be no self adjusting action. So when you're done with the installation spin the wheel with your hands and tighten them up until the wheel stops rotating. Back off a few notches until you can barely hear the shoes drag. Do this at each wheel of course. If you have a helper have them apply the brakes manually to make sure then take a test drive. From then on the self adjustment will take care of it from there. I quite often will do a very slow speed manual application on a dirt road or gravel to see if any wheel locks up too early or doesn't lock up at all.
__________________
Roger in NJ

" Democracy is the worst form of government. Except for all the rest"
Winston Churchill 1948

TAC - NJ 18

polarlyse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2013, 04:14 PM   #7
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
Yes you must pre adjust them. It will take a while for them to self adjust. I would be careful about letting them lock till the shoes break in. It is not hard to flat spot a tire while testing brakes. Keep your controller set a little on the low side till they break in.

No you don't need a bearing packer but it makes a messy job a little less messy. I use a grease gun with one of those double cone thingys and it works well. You will go through a lot of paper towles. Keep dirt and sand out of stuff. Think operating room clean here.

Perry
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2013, 04:30 PM   #8
Restorations done right
Commercial Member
 
Frank's Trailer Works's Avatar
 
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore , Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,545
Images: 2
A bearing packer is $9 at Pep Boys. Well worth it...
Frank's Trailer Works is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:33 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.