Bear with me here, this thread topic has been covered a zillion times, so this is mostly for my own documentation. You gotta do it somewhere!
First task is figuring out the load bearing. I went to the local gravel pit and got the following weights. The 260 lbs error is a little disconcerting, but it might have come from the fact that the scales had a slight ramp at the entrance, so when I got the truck weight by itself, the Overlander was pitched back and pulling aft a little, since it was on the ramp.
Then I estimated all the stuff that wasn't in the Overlander when I weighed it
Then I computed the sprung weight (thanks whomever--I was reading other axle posts and was reminded to subtract the running gear!)
So I'm thinking, two 2600# axles are what I need. Anyone see any serious errors in logic or estimates here?
I know you've done all the math, but are you really sure you want to go with less than what it came from the factory with? (2800 lbs)?
When I replaced axles on my Sovereign, I went from 3100 to 3600 lbs and they seem plenty soft given the ride I've observed from my rearview mirror as well as the condition of the inside of the trailer after travel.
Zep
My axles were 2800 lb OEM. I replaced them with 3500 lb as per Andy. Our ride is soft enough. We went 250 miles with the dresser tauber doors open(forgot) and the drawers only moved out about 2 inches,the roads here and in Michigan are not what you would call SMOOTH. Also forgot the laptop which was in a bag on the dresser,it never moved.We have a rear bath that puts the mentioned items over or just behind the rear axle. We leave the Tv on the Credesena and stuff on the table, they dont move, so the 3500 lbs axles are not a problem. We almost always travel with a full tank of water . The rig you see noted below grosses out at about 14000 lbs(as per State certified scale) road and camping ready.
__________________
Roger & MaryLou
___________________
F350 CREWCAB SW LONG BED
7.3 liter Power Stroke Diesel
1977 27ft OVERLANDER KA8LMQ AIR # 22336
My your roads be straight and smooth and may you always have a tailwind!
thanks everyone, and TPHAN, too. I never thought to look at the axles!
Maybe I'll go with 3,000#, or a hair more. With an empty weight on the axles of 4600#, that says the Overlander is now overweight by about 400 lbs, since the original total weight was 4510 lbs.
#10 Toroflex, 3,000#
6 on 5.5" studs
Electric Brakes
EZLube Hubs
Reversed high brackets @ 61-3/8" (seems to vary from 61-1/4 to 61-1/2)
Hub faces at 61-3/8 + (2 * 9-1/8) = 79-5/8"
22.5 degrees down
30" brake wires with sleeves and grommet
Airstream shock mounts -- turns out this order comes from a factory that couldn't meet my deadline, so I dropped the brackets after calling UWE and getting his advice. So, no shocks at all.
Many of us in the DenCo Unit or the 4CU know Luke. He gives freely of his knowledge at several of the Colorado area rallies. I was in a time crunch, so I wanted some help switching out my axles and I knew that he could handle any unexpected problems. Luke is in Ft Collins, airstreaminco@msn.com.
Here's just one example of the kinds of special "tools" he has, which I believe can convert any power outlet to any other...
He also has these kinds of aids for trailer connectors, etc., etc. When you arrive at the address, you think you're in a totally residential area, but Luke's back lot is all business.
Luke likes to keep the work area clear, so he jacks the trailer at the hitch A-frame and at the extreme rear end.
This puts a lot of bend in the shell and a lot of stress on interior cabinets if they are attached to the shell. I knew that the shell deformed pretty significantly due to an earlier damage to a cabinet from a road that caused some big heaving/porpoising. This is the first time I was able to actually observe how significant it can be.
If your cabinets are attached to the inner skin, I'd think about whether or not the rear jacks should be at the jack point behind the rear axle, even if that gets in the way a little.
By the way, there was no damage, it just looks bad. It does make me want to consider removing the screws in the skin that are above about 48" off the floor--the big shell movement is in the ceiling, not the walls. I don't show it in the photos, but if you have shelves between your partitions that are also attached to the wall, they can stabilize the partitions in the fore-aft direction so maybe the partitions don't need to be attached to the shell near their tops.
One note, which I've previously posted, is that no matter how you design your cabinets, you CANNOT make a box with a back. The cabinets must be able to deform like a parallelogram or they will break, eg, vertical partitions and horizontal shelves/drawers, but no backs.
Did you go with HIGH brackets to obtain a higher ride or were your originals high? A 32 degree down angle is available though it is not shown in the specifications.
(I guess there was an edit, because the above post now seems to be missing)
The HIGH brackets/flanges give you the same mounting face that was on the Henschens. The one you are referring to is EXTRA HIGH and is [a small] additional cost.
I wish I had known about the 32 degree option. I didn't want 45, but I would have liked 30 degrees, so that sounds optimal. I guess I stuck with the 22.5 degrees simply because I have several Airstreams and I don't want to have to buy a different hitch for each one.
I wound up with a height gain of 2-1/2". The old axles put the edge of the shell even with the top of the wheels, now you can see about half the sidewall--really a dramatic gain.
The tool is a blair cutter. You can get them individually or in kits (a nominal kit is about $80).
What I like about Dexter:
-- Shipping is included
-- Infinite ability to specify the load carrying capability
-- Reasonably prompt delivery
-- Nice options, like long brake wires
What I don't like:
-- Inflexible ordering
-- Not all options are documented
-- Significant mystery in how the mounting flange will look
-- Refusal to put 12" drums on the smaller axles, even though they fit
I might consider using Axis next time--I've heard they are now willing to deal with Airstreamers, again. I like their mounting flange (one hole matches perfectly) and the fact that you can get 12" drums or Kodiak disk brakes. I'll see what I feel like when I'm ready to do the Safari.
Great report, my axles for my Trade Wind are supposed to be in tomorrow. Your info will be a great help.
Question- Is that a new awning or just new fabric? Where did you get it. I need fabric for my 68 TW, but I can't find anything with the original looking vertical strips like in the picture.
At first I thought they were Dexter axles, then as I read I thought they were Axis and then when I read some more I think they were Dexters! So my question pertains only if they are are in fact Dexter's. Why did you decide to go with 22.5 down instead of 32 degrees and were your original brackets high profile? Thanks, Michael
Quick Links
Hybrid Mode
