Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-30-2006, 07:03 PM   #15
Just an old timer...
 
85MH325's Avatar

 
Tipton , Iowa
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,031
Images: 37
I have aluminum wheels, and I check the torque on the lugnuts every time I move the trailer. I can't tell you how many times, after a wheel bearing pack that I've found a loose lug nut or two. It generally takes a full four trips before they all stay torqued to spec on my '94.

Roger
__________________

__________________
AIR 2053 Current: 2006 Born Free 32 RQ Kodiak Chassis, & 1995 Coachmen B-van
Former Airstreams: 1953 Flying Cloud, 1957 Overlander, 1961 Bambi, 1970 Safari Special, 1978 Argosy Minuet, 1985 325 Moho, 1994 Limited 34' Two-door, 1994 B190 "B-Van"
85MH325 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2006, 07:15 PM   #16
2 Rivet Member
 
1990 34' Excella
Parsonsfield, , Maine
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 79
Ooops

I too am sorry about your misshap. But then it sounds like your damage is not too much. I wonder about your grey water and black water tanks. Were they empty when you left home and full or partially full on the return. Depending on the placement of those tanks in your trailer, it could make a significant weight shift to the rear. A full fresh water tank ahead of the axles pumped into grey and black water tanks behind the axles can create a double weight change. Just a thought. Charlie E.
__________________

__________________
CharlieE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2006, 09:39 PM   #17
Tom, the Uber Disney Fan
 
Minnie's Mate's Avatar
 
2006 30' Safari
Orlando , Florida
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,693
Images: 7
Jack, my Safari is almost the reverse of everything on your Classic. Mine is the 30' Safari with the front bedroom arrangement. There is a sofa immediately to the left of the door on the curb side with nothing stored under it on the journey home. The dinette is opposite the door with nothing underneath except the furnace. There are two overhead bins that had a few items inside but nothing too heavy. Our kitchen is a small "L" shape that sits directly behind the dinette with a convection/microwave under the cook top. All of the cookware, flat ware, and dishes (melamine) were stored in this area. This is also the area directly over the rear axle. Directly behind the sofa and rear axle on the curb side is the refrigerator followed by the hotwater heater, closet and a pair of bunk beds in the rear corner, curb side. I had very little stored in the outside storage compartments in this area. The road side rear corner houses the shower and bath. The black tank is under the toilet of course and the grey tank is in front of it. I believe it may run between the axles, but that may be the fresh water tank. I had dumped the black and grey tanks before pulling out of the camp site and flushed the black tank. I had not added more than four or five gallons max to the fresh tanks and that was just to keep the pump "wet".

The dealer installed the Equal-i-zer on my trailer and truck directly from the box. I really didn't watch, but he was referring to the instructions for measurements for deflection when the tongue was lowered onto the ball without the spring bars when I came into the shop after signing all of the paper work. When I was ready to pull out of the shop the truck looked level.

I re-examined the scratch when I got home tonight and the scratch seems high to have hit the wheels. But there are no scratches on the wheels or abrasions on the tires. The dent is so shallow I don’t think the bottom rail would have reached the wheels as far back as they are set. (See photos below.)
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Scratch 2.JPG
Views:	65
Size:	275.3 KB
ID:	21764   Click image for larger version

Name:	Scratch 3.jpg
Views:	77
Size:	275.0 KB
ID:	21765  

__________________
Minnie's Mate is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2006, 10:00 PM   #18
3 Rivet Member
 
GO Bob's Avatar
 
1982 34' Limited
1975 31' Sovereign
Grovetown , Georgia
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 105
FYI Most truck stop will let you weigh most anything. The ones I see advetise CAT scales. They have three platform scale. I put axles on one tounge on one and TV on the other. I get a weight then put one side on then the other. This cost was $8 for the first and $1 for each additional reweigh.
__________________
GO Bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2006, 02:22 AM   #19
Rivet Master
 
1992 34' Limited
Falls Church , Virginia
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 945
Equal-i-zer adjustments

Sorry to hear of your mishap MM!

Hope that guard rail looked like someone really creamed it!!! I always tell the kids to say "You should see the other guy!!!" Not that that helps here!

I too, had a situation with the Equal-i-zer needing to be adjusted/ checked frequently during the initial break-in period. To say nothing of lugnuts after ANY service. Aluminum wheels need extra care as noted.

The EQ hitch was checked thoroughly again in Custer SD (after a 3K+ mile pull - ABQ to MI via OK/ IL, then to SD) and then pulled into Denver where seemingly everything was loose. Go figure. Didn't notice any different "pull" or push on the tow though. 400 +/- miles. No out of the ordinary rough roads or anything that would have rattled it all to THAT extent. Seemingly.

Checked it all again when we got to ALBQ and things were again a 'little' loose - both 2 lugs and EQ. No problem since. 3rd "re-tighten's" the charm!?

NO COMPLAINTS about the AS or the HITCH!!!!! Just the cost of doing business.

Actually, I LOVE IT since it makes my checking on all this stuff seem worthwhile!!!! I give to the AS, it gives to me! Everybody wins!

Axel
__________________
SilverToy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2006, 07:39 AM   #20
Tom, the Uber Disney Fan
 
Minnie's Mate's Avatar
 
2006 30' Safari
Orlando , Florida
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,693
Images: 7
I put the hitch head in one of the storage compartments when we got home so I don't have it for reference. When the service manager was installing it he was using some of the biggest wrenches I have ever seen...his tools were way bigger than mine! Will I need the super sized crescent wrench and ten pound ratchet wrench he had or will normal hand tools do the job. We leave on Friday as soon as I get home from work for a week long trip without the Airstream and I will either have to do it tonight or one night week after next and I'll need to stop on the way home from work to get the tools. Right now week after next is looking more feasible.
__________________
Minnie's Mate is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2006, 08:58 AM   #21
1 Rivet Short
 
1989 25' Excella
By The Bay , Rhode Island
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,547
Images: 3
I would strongly suggest you go out before your trip and purchase a quality torque wrench (in the correct range) and the sockets needed to torque your hitch and your lug nuts, and a couple of box wrenches. As a matter of fact it is a good idea to carry an entire tool kit...
I always keep these with me when we travel. I check my hitch before every trip, and before returning home. Lug nuts are checked 2-3 times/season.
Your rig is brand new and will need more frequent checks this season (things will eventually settle in).
Go out and spend the $100, these are not items you want to skimp on...(the peace of mind is worth it)
After a couple of trips, you will be much more comfortable with the whole towing experience. Spend some time learning your hitch, torquing the proper nuts/bolts, etc.
Drive at reasonable speeds, plan your parking/gas stops so you always have an easy way to pull out, get some walkie talkies so your partner can help in backing into the site and before you know it you will be a pro! (But that doesn't mean you can start skipping the safety checks above!)
I have laminated check list that I review EVERY time before pulling out. I have written every single detail on that list and I review it several times before hitting the road. I have yet to have any towing related catastrophies and I believe it is in large part due to good preparation.m I value my family time and don't want to spend it on the side of the road or worse, in an accident.
Get the tools, get comfortable with all your equipment, make a thorough check-list, and you will have a much better time.

Bill
__________________
BillTex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2006, 10:00 AM   #22
1 Rivet Member
 
Leesure's Avatar
 
1992 29' Excella
Little Britain , Ontario
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 15
Images: 4
Ouch!

Those photo's made me cringe!

Best of luck in getting things sorted out and repaired.
__________________
Bob & Nancy Lee
Leesure is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2006, 10:11 AM   #23
Moderator
 
jcanavera's Avatar

 
2004 30' Classic Slideout
Fenton , Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,002
Images: 143
Send a message via AIM to jcanavera Send a message via Skype™ to jcanavera
Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnie's Mate
The dealer installed the Equal-i-zer on my trailer and truck directly from the box. I really didn't watch, but he was referring to the instructions for measurements for deflection when the tongue was lowered onto the ball without the spring bars when I came into the shop after signing all of the paper work. When I was ready to pull out of the shop the truck looked level.

I re-examined the scratch when I got home tonight and the scratch seems high to have hit the wheels. But there are no scratches on the wheels or abrasions on the tires. The dent is so shallow I donít think the bottom rail would have reached the wheels as far back as they are set. (See photos below.)
Well it doesn't sound like you had a problem with the load distribution within the trailer. I don't see an issue there. You said you had a truck. What brand and model is it?

One thing has me slightly puzzled. I checked the hitch weight on your trailer and Airstream rates it for 850 lbs. I'm wondering why your dealer sold you the model which supports 1,200 lbs. There is a 1,000 lb. model available. While I don't support exceeding a hitch rating, using a hitch which is too big can prevent the spring bars from doing their job.

If you browse the various threads on the Forum, you will find some consensus that in some cases you have to sometimes use lower capacity spring bars to compensate for heavily sprung tow vehicles. In the case of the Equal-i-zer, the hitch weight is an important component because the friction control portion is down by the ball below those socket bolts. Noting that you did do a successful tow earlier, albeit with a little more weight up front I have some concern regarding the hitch. Assuming the dealer did a proper installation and when hitched the tow vehicle and trailer are in a level position, I have to question as to whether the proper sized hitch was used relative to your tow vehicle. I'm wondering whether the 1,000 lbs model would have been a better fit for your situation.

Also as a note to everyone who owns an Equalizer, one of the problems with the design of that hitch is the tight clearance for the hitch ball nut that renders many sockets unusable, thus folks don't check that nut as they should. While prowling around the Equal-i-zer web site I noted that they now sell a thin walled socket that will fit. They also sell spare parts kits with extra pins and the like. Buy one of those and you never will need it. Don't buy one and you will drop and misplace a pin, on the first trip out. It never fails.

Jack
__________________
Jack Canavera
STL Mo.
AIR #56
'04 Classic 30' S.O.,'03 GMC Savana 2500,'14 Honda CTX 700
jcanavera is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2006, 10:45 AM   #24
Tom, the Uber Disney Fan
 
Minnie's Mate's Avatar
 
2006 30' Safari
Orlando , Florida
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,693
Images: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcanavera
You said you had a truck. What brand and model is it?
I have a 2005 Ford F-250 desiel crew cab 2 wheel drive with short bed with tow/haul package and intergrated trailer brake controler (excellent performing system by the way).

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcanavera
One thing has me slightly puzzled. I checked the hitch weight on your trailer and Airstream rates it for 850 lbs. I'm wondering why your dealer sold you the model which supports 1,200 lbs. There is a 1,000 lb. model available. While I don't support exceeding a hitch rating, using a hitch which is too big can prevent the spring bars from doing their job.

Jack
I requested the extra weight capacity so I could haul my toys (golf cart or ATV) in the bed of the truck. I was afraid I would exceed the capacity of the 1,000 lb bars when trying to distribute the weight of the load and tongue of the trailer. Would it be advisable to get the lighter bars for when not carrying a load? Those I can get locally.
__________________
Minnie's Mate is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2006, 10:48 AM   #25
Rivet Master
 
2003 25' Safari
Eden Prairie , Minnesota
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 765
Images: 3
The hitch is not designed to distribute load added to your truck bed.
__________________
Dan
dmac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2006, 11:03 AM   #26
1 Rivet Short
 
1989 25' Excella
By The Bay , Rhode Island
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,547
Images: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcanavera
Also as a note to everyone who owns an Equalizer, one of the problems with the design of that hitch is the tight clearance for the hitch ball nut that renders many sockets unusable, thus folks don't check that nut as they should. While prowling around the Equal-i-zer web site I noted that they now sell a thin walled socket that will fit. They also sell spare parts kits with extra pins and the like. Buy one of those and you never will need it. Don't buy one and you will drop and misplace a pin, on the first trip out. It never fails.

Jack
Yes the hitch ball nut is a very tight fit. When I set up my hitch, I properly torqued this nut, and then peened the thread so it cannot come loose. (A bead of weld would do it also). This allows to me to check it visually very easily, as I peend the nut also as an alignment mark...it has never moved in 4 years of use.
I do check all other nuts, as indicated in the instructions, with a torque wrench.
There has been much discussion on several message boards about the different rated spring bars. As long as you have more than you need, I wouldn't spend much time worrying about it...

Bill
__________________
BillTex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2006, 11:38 AM   #27
Moderator
 
jcanavera's Avatar

 
2004 30' Classic Slideout
Fenton , Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,002
Images: 143
Send a message via AIM to jcanavera Send a message via Skype™ to jcanavera
Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnie's Mate
I have a 2005 Ford F-250 desiel crew cab 2 wheel drive with short bed with tow/haul package and intergrated trailer brake controler (excellent performing system by the way).

I requested the extra weight capacity so I could haul my toys (golf cart or ATV) in the bed of the truck. I was afraid I would exceed the capacity of the 1,000 lb bars when trying to distribute the weight of the load and tongue of the trailer. Would it be advisable to get the lighter bars for when not carrying a load? Those I can get locally.
Well you might be able to get a trade from your dealer on the bars, or possibly a trial use to see if you get an improvement. Contrary to what some think, heavier is better is not always the best choice and can cause handling problems. You all ready have a substantial truck that's going to carry that weight pretty well. It's hard to diagnose this as we are doing, so quite honestly you do have some things to checked out. Were all guessing at this point.

I would think that since you bought this hitch from your dealer, he would be as concerned as you regarding the handling issues. Obviously buying the lighter bars might cure your problem, but then again it might be something else in the equation. If I were in your shoes, I'd go back to the dealer explain the problems, let them do some diagnosis and see what their suggestions are. Let them do a test tow with you and if the lighter bars are available, try them out too. This just looks too much like a situation where the bars could be the culprit. You need to make sure those bars have to exert some force to level the TV and trailer. If they don't, you are losing some of the friction necessary to minimize your sway.

Jack
__________________
Jack Canavera
STL Mo.
AIR #56
'04 Classic 30' S.O.,'03 GMC Savana 2500,'14 Honda CTX 700
jcanavera is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2006, 08:31 AM   #28
Tom, the Uber Disney Fan
 
Minnie's Mate's Avatar
 
2006 30' Safari
Orlando , Florida
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,693
Images: 7
Well, we are back from our non-Airstream vacation and are going on a short week end trip leaving after work this Friday.

1) I will get a torque wrench this afternoon and check all the lugs on the wheels and on the hitch except the hitch ball. I will have to order the thin walled socket from Equal-i-zer today.

2) I will try adding four or five 40-lb bags of fertilizer to the bed of the truck to see if that helps soften the springs.

3) If neither of these helps, I will take the trailer and hitch to my local hitch shop that sells Equal-l-zer brand hitches and ask for their analysis and advise.

I have perused the Equal-i-zer website and according to them, the lighter spring bars are not compatible with the hitch head I have, meaning if I have to go with lighter bars, I will have to get a whole new hitch. If that is what it takes, I will ask to try one out over the 4th of July when we take our next camping trip.

We have continued to rearrange the contents of the trailer in an attempt to redistribute the load in the hopes that we can balance it more. Hopefully, some of this will solve the problems because our 4th of July trip will be 800 miles round trip.

Thanks for all of the advise and expertise that comes with towing experience. I will let you all know how it turns out.
__________________

__________________
Minnie's Mate is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Need '81-'84 Pages for 1976 Owners Manual stan wilder General Repair Forum 6 08-10-2004 08:01 AM
accident bhsl8 General Repair Forum 73 09-11-2003 10:27 AM
Tires 74Argosy24MH Mechanics Corner - Engines, Transmission & More... 3 09-10-2003 09:32 AM
Shurflo regulator_50 psi is not 40 femuse Water Heaters, Filters & Pumps 6 03-28-2003 10:54 AM
Too hot but had a good time suekozin On The Road... 11 07-20-2002 03:45 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:06 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.