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Old 08-08-2007, 06:28 PM   #15
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Just an FYI with regard to the Henschen axle: I have the axle installed. Decided to go with 16" X7" aluminum wheels and BF Goodrich Commercial T/A All season 225 75R16 LRE's. They have more clearance from the shocks on the inside, and less clearance (about an inch) from the wheel well outer skin - not ideal, but do-able, unless I get a lot of mud on the tire.
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Old 08-08-2007, 07:20 PM   #16
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For removal of the rusted-in-place bolts, I use my trusty I-R 2135 Impact wrench, set to tighten. Usually only takes a few seconds to snap the bolt off, and both halves drop out. So fast, your ice cream won't even melt, much less allowing your beer to warm.
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Old 08-08-2007, 11:04 PM   #17
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I'm crawling under and blasting them with WD-40 every day while I wait for my order to come in. If that doesn't work I'll try your trick Terry
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Old 08-09-2007, 08:40 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
For removal of the rusted-in-place bolts, I use my trusty I-R 2135 Impact wrench, set to tighten. Usually only takes a few seconds to snap the bolt off, and both halves drop out. So fast, your ice cream won't even melt, much less allowing your beer to warm.
Well, that's clearly one easy way to do it.

I just gotta get more welding and air tools. Problem is - that won't happen until this project is done. All the financial resources are ear-tagged for needed supplies. At least there is now light at the end of the tunnel, and the only cabinetry left is the galley. . . Oh, then an air conditioner . . . and an awning . . . and electronic stuff . ...............
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Old 08-09-2007, 08:49 AM   #19
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If you don't have the impact wrench do as I did before I bought some cool tools. Put your wrench on the bolt and put a 2' long cheater bar on the end. If the bolt is rounded off use a pipe wrench and wear gloves so when the wrench slips off or the bolt breaks you won't bust your knuckles.
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Old 08-09-2007, 09:25 AM   #20
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I thought about using a cheater bar - my dad does that all the time on the farm. The reason I didn't go that route is because at that time the wheels were off and the TT sat on jacks - not the most stable and secure setting. The space under the TT was limited to really reef on the cheater. It just wasn't a right situation to be cheating, if you know what I mean.

GP, I used WD40 on one of the bolts (the sandblasting job a couple years ago took care of the rust issues). But if your bolts are that rusted, and you plan on over tightening the bolts as a means to snap them for removal, you don't need to worry about using WD40.
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Old 08-09-2007, 02:07 PM   #21
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It has been brought to my attention that I may have left a wrong impression with my above post: just to make things clear, there was really no dual meaning in my prior post about cheating, and I didn't mean it to come accross that way. I just didn't think it good to be reefing on a cheater bar, shaking the entire TT, when it was directly above me sitting on jack stands with no room for error.

i.e. using a cheating bar = 'cheating'
jacked = using a jack stand
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Old 08-09-2007, 02:59 PM   #22
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GP, I used WD40 on one of the bolts (the sandblasting job a couple years ago took care of the rust issues). But if your bolts are that rusted, and you plan on over tightening the bolts as a means to snap them for removal, you don't need to worry about using WD40.
Well, I'm hoping that I can just unbolt them after a weeks treatment of WD-40. The tighten/snap'em is the back up plan.
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