Need shorter leaf springs

[55AS]

Long story, but it appears P.O. changed the axle on my 55 FC and my trailer now sits several inches higher than everyone else's. While the increased ground clearance is nice (particularly when installing new tanks, replacing belly pan, etc) I have a storage issue that makes it beneficial to reduce the height by 2 inches.
The axle is tubular, with susbtantial leaf springs u-bolted under the axle. I am not interested in going to a torsion axle so it seems the simplest option would be to replace the leaf springs with shorter ones. Current springs are 36 inches eye to eye and nearly 7 inches tall (axle to eye). They have 8 leaves in them. I have not been able to find anything similar (particularly the 36 inch length). BTW I have 8 inches of clearance between the top if the tire and the wheel well.
Anyone have a source for long springs?
Can a suspension shop modify the ones I have?
Is there an easier way to lower the trailer?

Thanks in advance.

[markdoane]

If the axle is a straight axle, I would replace it with a 4" drop axle. A 2" drop is also available.

I would be cheaper than relocating the spring mounts, which is a major welding job.

[HowieE]

I would take it to a spring shop. First question the 8 leaves and the load rating on the current springs and then discuss reworking the spring to your needs.

Sounds like the current springs may be over rated a bit.

[Action]

May be remove a leaf on each side.

>>>>>>>>>Action

[idroba]

As HowieE suggests, an old full line spring shop would be your best source of springs and modifications. They build custom springs on site in general.

[55AS]

Thanks.
No desire to replace axle.

[dannydimitt]

a drop center axle is what came with the trailer when new . The straight tube axle was more than likely put under there to give the trailer more ground clearance , 4 inch drop axles are relatively inexpensive and easy to change out . Can probably use your old backing plates and hubs on the drop center axle .

[Jim Foster]

Why not use lowering blocks and longer U bolts as used on autos?


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[55AS]

[QUOTE=Jim Foster;1651315]Why not use lowering blocks and longer U bolts as used on autos?


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This seems like a simple and inexpensive solution. Any reason not to do this?

[Melody Ranch]

Mount, the axle on top of the springs, not below like it
probably
is.

[perryg114]

Ding Ding Ding we have a winner folks. If the axle won't hit the bottom of the trailer, when you hit a bump then put it on top of the springs. Springs can be cut down with a chop saw and the edges ground smooth. You can remove leaves to a point but if you remove too many the springs will be too weak. I did this very same thing on a motorcycle trailer. I would get new U bolts to make sure they won't fail.

Perry

Originally Posted by Melody Ranch

Mount, the axle on top of the springs, not below like it
probably
is.

[markdoane]

Ding Ding Ding. The OP says the springs are mounted under the axle.

[perryg114]

A simple spacer can be made to shim the axle up. A photo would help here.

Perry

[55AS]

Originally Posted by perryg114

Ding Ding Ding we have a winner folks. If the axle won't hit the bottom of the trailer, when you hit a bump then put it on top of the springs. Springs can be cut down with a chop saw and the edges ground smooth. You can remove leaves to a point but if you remove too many the springs will be too weak. I did this very same thing on a motorcycle trailer. I would get new U bolts to make sure they won't fail.

Perry

Axle is aleady on top of springs. Spacer seems like a good solution.

[54fuselage]

A drop axle is probably going to be the only appropriate action given the space you have to work with. Reason I know is that I made the conversion to straight axle this month on my 1954 Flying Cloud. Check to see how much travel your suspension has before bottoming out, that will determine if spacers will even be possible. As for my setup, I just pulled the original drop axle in favor of a straight axle and the added height. In addition, had the springs re-arched to get another inch and 1/4. That part was necessary given the three inch clearance to bottoming out was reduced by an axle a full inch taller. Rule of thumb: You want to have a minimum of three inches space for spring travel. Although less may suffice, having an axle slam into the frame can't be a good thing. A good suspension shop will take your leaf packs apart, inspect and clean them up. If they're not heavily rusted they'll give you many more years of service, and the 36 inch length is favorable to anything shorter as they provide a smoother ride and spread the impact as the trailer was designed.

[55AS]

I have plenty of space for spring travel, but it turns out my shock mount is welded to the bottom of the spring so I cannot easily add a spacer...

[Jim Foster]

Be sure that after adding a lowering block the axle will not hit the bottom of the trailer when going down the road. That being OK, install lowering blocks using longer U bolts. The distance between the lower and upper shock mounts will remain the same. What will change is the distance between the top of the axle and the bottom of the trailer, which is what you are after.


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[perryg114]

Looks like the po cheaped out and did not put a drop axle on to replace the original.

You may have to spring for a new axle. How about posting a photo.

Perry

[55AS]

Turns out bottoming out would be an issue. Axle is currently three inches below frame so a 2 inch spacer would leave too little clearance. Also, shock absorber is mounted below leaf spring - see attached pic.

[Action]

You have a Bambi with what appears to be 7+ leaves in that leaf pack. It appears this vehicle is set to handle a full load of masonary. The easy fix would be to remove 2 to half of the leaves go get the proper ride qualities. This vehicle is over sprung!

>>>>>>>>>>Action