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Old 12-20-2007, 04:54 AM   #1
62overlander
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Profile:  1962 26' Overlander
Catonsville , Maryland
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... so post 1969 is a breeze and pre 1969 can or cannot be a do it yourself and if you get lucky?... is that what I am understanding? So my overlander, being a 1962, the transition year between the leaf springs and the dyna torque, could be complicated? I have looked at my axles carefully. They are at about 8 o'clock/ 4 o'clock depending on it being front or back axle. From what I have read here, that is great. Am I wrong? If I had to change them, it would not be a matter of unbolting and re bolting or even drilling. My axles are both welded to a plate that is then welded to the frame, that plate extends at least a foot past the wheel wells in both directions. Has anyone any input on this?
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Old 12-20-2007, 05:36 AM   #2
Inland RV Center, In
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
... so post 1969 is a breeze and pre 1969 can or cannot be a do it yourself and if you get lucky?... is that what I am understanding? So my overlander, being a 1962, the transition year between the leaf springs and the dyna torque, could be complicated? I have looked at my axles carefully. They are at about 8 o'clock/ 4 o'clock depending on it being front or back axle. From what I have read here, that is great. Am I wrong? If I had to change them, it would not be a matter of unbolting and re bolting or even drilling. My axles are both welded to a plate that is then welded to the frame, that plate extends at least a foot past the wheel wells in both directions. Has anyone any input on this?
Airstream did weld many axles in place in 1961 and 1962.

Cutting them off and grinding the old welds off is not a problem at least for someone that has those tools.

There still should be an "axle mounting plate" welded to the side of the frame.

To install a new axle, slip the axle in place and drill 3 each 1/2 holes thru the new axle mounting bracket and the axle mounting plate. Insert the bolts, tighten them corrrectly, and the axle installation is done.

Next would be the shock location. Because of variations back then from model to model, the shock brackets must be welded in place.

You can use the new brackets or the brackets from the old axle.

Alignment of the axle should be automatic.

There are however, every once and a while, exceptions to the alignment.

If the axle mounting plates were not installed correctly when the chassis was made, then excessive tire wear can take place. The trailer will tow dog leg, if not corrected. A 1/8 inch difference between the axle mounting plate locations, will cause about a 3 inch dog leg tracking on a 31 foot trailer. A 1/8 inch will cause almost a 6 inch dog leg on the same 31 foot trailer. The mis-location of the axle mounting plates has happened from day one, on up to at least a few of the 1972 trailers.

That is not the fault of the axle in that case, but the fault of the original manufacturing process.

The incorrect axle mounting plate placement, is rare, and can easily be checked.

To check the axle mounting plates for proper placement, simply measure from the "center of the jack post" to a shock stud, or a mounting hole, or any other point of reference, such as the leading edge of the axle mounting plates.

That dimension, "MUST" be "EXACTLY" the same. If not then the mounting holes on one side can be altered to make the dimensions the same.

When the dimensions are the same, the tire wear will be normal.

However, there are some parts of the country that have roads that have a significant "crowns." That in itself, will cause abnormal tire wear on the curb side tires. It should not be huge, but it will be more than the roadside.

Andy
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Old 12-20-2007, 06:19 AM   #3
47WeeWind
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Profile:  1948 16' Wee Wind
1964 19' Globetrotter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
... so post 1969 is a breeze and pre 1969 can or cannot be a do it yourself and if you get lucky?... is that what I am understanding? So my overlander, being a 1962, the transition year between the leaf springs and the dyna torque, could be complicated? I have looked at my axles carefully. They are at about 8 o'clock/ 4 o'clock depending on it being front or back axle. From what I have read here, that is great. Am I wrong? If I had to change them, it would not be a matter of unbolting and re bolting or even drilling. My axles are both welded to a plate that is then welded to the frame, that plate extends at least a foot past the wheel wells in both directions. Has anyone any input on this?
In 1962, at least, the style, shape and attachment to the frame rails of axle mounting plates on tandem axle trailers differed between the California and Ohio factories. The side-to-side distance between the inside edges of these mounting plates also differed by 1/4 inch between the factories. So carefully measure your own trailer and do not rely solely on measurements from other '62 trailer owners without first verifying those measurements on your Overlander. You do not want to order axles that have their mounting bracket outside edges further apart than the inside distance between your mounting plates, as it become very difficult to force them up into their slots.

I'm no engineer, but I think having the outside distance between axle mounting bracket edges slightly smaller (I'm talking 1/4 inch here) than the inside side-to-side distance between the axle mounting plates would be less of a problem that having them 1/4 inch too wide, as the axle mounting plates could be pulled tight against the axle brackets when tightening the bolts and nuts. Ideally, it should be a flush fit where only light tapping with a hammer might be necessary to seat the axles into their mounting slots.

It's not rocket science, but measure carefully before you order your axles. It the type of project where you'll have much more understanding after the installation than before. Good luck!
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Old 12-20-2007, 12:18 PM   #4
PizzaChop
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It the type of project where you'll have much more understanding after the installation than before.
I think that comment about sums up everything Airstream related!
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Old 12-20-2007, 12:22 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PizzaChop
I think that comment about sums up everything Airstream related!
And Argosy too.

But we won't talk about the Airstream 5th wheel.

Andy
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Old 12-20-2007, 06:54 PM   #6
jesus mike
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Profile:  1970 27' Overlander
jacksonville , Florida
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Didnt know there was a 5th wheel, is it as popular as the Airstream toy hauler?
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Old 12-22-2007, 04:22 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by jesus mike
Didnt know there was a 5th wheel, is it as popular as the Airstream toy hauler?
Nope.

It was an initial attempt by Airstream to get into the 5 th wheel type trailers.

A very very few were made, and last I heard, was they all made it to the scrap heap.

Now a "toy hauler," that's a very different cup of tea.

I made a 30 foot Airstream toy hauler for a customer, back in 1968.

The entire rear shell was removeable.

Andy
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Old 12-22-2007, 08:17 PM   #8
safari62
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Profile:  1962 22' Safari
Vacationland , Maine
Posts: 285
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62' Safari

This is where having a single axle trailer really pays off. sorry.

Notice the bolt holes and axle channel. The new axle bolt holes had to be drilled out. That is a workout.

It took me a full day by myself with the assistance of a friends professional garage tools. Shock mounts had to be cut off and remounted.

New axle is much heavier then the old unit. I had rebuilt that prior to pulling it up to Maine from Delaware. So now I have a 1962 axle with new brakes, magnets, seals and bearings and resurfaced hubs. Not sure what to do with that.
Gary
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