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Old 11-10-2015, 09:47 PM   #1
cwf
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Mjolnir's new suspenders!

Realized we may have an 'axle problem'... therefore we had 3 choices.. Ignore, sell Mjolnir or replace the axles. We chose option 3.

Ordered and received. The axles are in our yard.

This past weekend we prepped the new axles for install. During the process we found a couple of issues... Inland RV and Redneck Trailer Supply resolved the problems. WE are now on point..

Now, to remove the axles... With the AS lifted high enough for tires to clear the driveway concrete, and 'secured' with two jack stands per side. Due to limited space on the 'street side', I decided to pull the axles out on the Curb side. I removed the drums and backing plates from the street side axle spindles... cutting the brake wires 'long'.

To check all wiring, I cut the wires on the curb side, too. All wires were 'stripped' back about 1/4" and ensured they were not touching. I then 'pulled' the Breakaway switch and started checking the power at each wire. The voltage was just over 11VDC... ? I checked voltage source and it was 'good'... 12.5VDC.. I then sprayed some 'contact cleaner' and Corrosion X into the Breakaway Switch... after operating it a few times, the voltage at the brakes improved to 12.46VDC.. not a big drop... but, seems the switch was not making good contact... Moving forward..

I highly recommend spraying the axle mount bolts with penetrating oil... a day ahead is a good idea..

We started with the rear axle on our 34'...

On the curb side we supported the axle by placing a floor jack under the spindle. Then we loosened the bolts and left the nuts on about 2 turns. Left the floor jack under the spindle and, to keep the axle from 'rolling' as it was lowered and moved, I placed a "4 wheel, furniture moving trolley" with a 4x4 on it in a position so that the 4x4 would catch the curb side vertical mounting surface.

We repeated the process on the street side.. but, since the drum and backing plate are removed, we used another floor jack supporting under the axle vertical mounting plate.

The bolts were removed on the street side... CAREFULLY..... STAY out from under the load! Now, slowly, crrrreeeeepppp pace.. lower the curb side axle just till you see it start to move. Repeat on the Curb side.... Just move a bit..

Now, continue to lower each side gently... do not get under the load.. watch for obstructions and wires!!! Continue to lower until the curb side vertical plate contacts the 4x4 on the trolley. You should now be well below the frame.

Ensure the street side is lowered completely, carefully push the lift from the street side and gently tug on the curb side IN COORDINATION... and the axle should roll out easily. Do not 'pull' or 'push' too hard on the floor jacks..

Here are some pics of the process:

Axles - Album - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting
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Old 11-10-2015, 09:55 PM   #2
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Tomorrow, the new axles go on... will try to take better pics..
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Old 11-11-2015, 09:15 PM   #3
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Old 11-11-2015, 09:27 PM   #4
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Awesome, Channing!! A little scary to balance that big trailer on those little jacks, isn't it?
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Old 11-12-2015, 08:14 AM   #5
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Awesome, Channing!! A little scary to balance that big trailer on those little jacks, isn't it?
Yes, my helpers did it and were planning their escape if they dropped them. I promised I wouldn't mess them up too bad if they messed up...... The axles did "teeter"a couple of times when they were out of sync moving them. But with the flat part of the axle mount well balanced on 4x4s and on "large" cup floor jacks it took about 45 minutes to mount the first "furthest aft" and 22 for center... 30 for front as we took time verifying measurement.

Aligning to "rear hole" was the key..and by aligning, I mean we used a crowbar to force rearward and hold pressure as we lowered the axle slightly, then jacked up against the frame...snugly.... Next, using the original washers and new bolt/lock washer and nut (grade 8) we torqued down rear, then while jack was holding axle against frame, drilled forward hole and bolted.

Each axle front/bow slot was most out of alignment... Required drilling most metal

I used a "7/8" step" bit to drill the front alignment/mount hole. I broke the Harbor freight one one on second hole, but once I got a Milwaukee bit, it drilled the rest!!!!

Aft and center were as close to parallel as anyone of the 3 of us could read the tape. The bow (#3) was 1/32" or less to the other two.
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