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Old 01-18-2009, 07:35 PM   #15
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i'm not letting go of this one yet. in fact, it has been suggested and discussed to go triple on a globetrotter. i think a triple set of white walls (or fake white walls for max load range) per side on a globetrotter body would look ufo like and atract everyones attention for the consession 'trip' BUT i am also a realistic man, just with crazy ideas. so just out of curiousity, what is the load range on the axles for the 70's safari's? my thinking was that, i might end up having to change out these axles too. as in: single axle globetrotter= 5000lb max, and dual axle safari =2500lbs each =5000lbs. i'm sure i got those numbers wrong but just to make the point. one of the main obstacles in this brainstorm is the trailer being under 20' for some fair and festival regulations plus to keep it manuverable in tight crowded situations. trailers over 20 (for me) start to become a different animal. although i guess the turning radius on a triple axle would NOT be exactly tight.
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Old 01-18-2009, 08:06 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenrig View Post
I'm not letting go of this one yet. in fact, it has been suggested and discussed to go triple on a globetrotter. i think a triple set of white walls (or fake white walls for max load range) per side on a globetrotter body would look ufo like and attract everyone's attention for the concession 'trip' one of the main obstacles in this brainstorm is the trailer being under 20' for some fair and festival regulations plus to keep it maneuverable in tight crowded situations. trailers over 20 (for me) start to become a different animal. although i guess the turning radius on a triple axle would be exactly tight.
Triple axles on a 20ft trailer would give you almost no tongue weight. That would make for a rather unpleasant towing experience (unless they were all towards the rear). Another problem with this is the frame isn't stout enough for the weight that would require a triple axle 20ft trailer. Unless you build a new frame. I suppose you could get axles with a very low load rating though. I bet you would wear the edges off the tires pretty fast.

Whatever you do decide, try to have a good balance between the weight in the trailer and the axle weight ratings. Too stiff you'll beat the trailer to death, too low a weight rating you'll beat the trailer to death.

Just a few thoughts that came to mind.

Personally the twin axle idea seems very doable and adequate.
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Old 01-18-2009, 08:33 PM   #17
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Have you thought about cutting down a 27' or 31' by removing the front and sliding i back towards the axels? and then modifying the frame?
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Old 01-18-2009, 09:12 PM   #18
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Have you thought about cutting down a 27' or 31' by removing the front and sliding i back towards the axels? and then modifying the frame?
Then you would have way too much rear over hang.

It would almost be better, to cut off some of the frame rearward of the axles.

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Old 01-18-2009, 09:19 PM   #19
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thanks andy,
would love to have Inland do it, but your too darn far away. although my dog wouldnt mind another trip your way for those sweet Hawaiin dog treats. unless of course there is a Northern Cal addition of Inland.
Corona is a lot closer than Jackson Center.

The trailer wheels, carry many options, one of which is to travel.

When you discover the headaches and money you will need to spend, to do a project such as you propose, you quite well will think about the risks of a DIY project, or having someone close by to do it, with perhaps no experience and certainly, no Airstream parts.

Choosing anyone other than a qualified company, will haunt you beyond definition.

Sorry, but you asked.

Andy
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Old 01-18-2009, 09:35 PM   #20
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Note the more forward axle positions of the Euro Airstreams. They compute a different dynamic and lighter tongue loads. For safety's sake and the way domestic Airstreams are set up, aim for 11-15% of your gross weight to be on the tongue. You'll just about need to have your interior furnishings complete, weighed, and calculate vectors before you rebuild this way. Weigh your overall finished project and the tongue weight. Be sure to start out at low speeds driving any such Franken-trailer. Be prepared to add ballast as need be. It's on you -- we have no liability in this situation.
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Old 01-18-2009, 09:46 PM   #21
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I left something out. Too light tongue loads (eg, < 10%) may result in a trailer that sways uncontrollably at anything more than the slowest speeds. Mid-1970 rear door Argosy trailers have very light tongue weights and display this instability if empty. This can develop into a very dangerous situation at speeds above 25 mph and well below highway speeds. Go into it with eyes open. Test drive away from other traffic & people.
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Old 01-20-2009, 07:43 AM   #22
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thank you all for exploring this brainstorm with me. and thanks for some numbers and better understanding, bob. if the trailer is every born, i will call it: Franken T, spawn of satan.

and please, if anyone has photos of airstream concession trailers for ideas that would be greatly appreciated. i found the www.cosmiccafefl.com which is VERY cute.
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Old 01-20-2009, 08:52 AM   #23
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Old 01-20-2009, 11:34 PM   #24
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Another consideration is that with each additional axle, the inside capacity for equipment goes down. The wheel wells stick up about 12" above the floor and about 12" into the space as well. They are about 24" long for a single axle. By the time you add another one (or two?) axle(s), the usable space along the sides has pretty much eaten up 3 or 4 feet on each side. In a GlobeTrotter, that's a lot. I would think you would want to have all that heavy equipment resting on the floor - not on the wheel wells.

Shari
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Old 01-21-2009, 08:00 AM   #25
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very good point shari. i guess i should explore the single beefy axle concept now that i have gone to the opposite extreme. i would like to hear some testimonials of those who have bigger vintage single axle airstreams and their experiences on the road when the worst happens. what does the trailer do when you get a flat? how does it act? i would imagine you can feel a flat coming? a blowout?
and thanks for the link, cameron. nice toaster!
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Old 01-21-2009, 08:14 AM   #26
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Best way to avoid a flat is prevention by keeping good tires under the trailer.
Well balance tire and wheel assembly.
Covered from UV damage when not traveling.
Replaced when the age of the tire is too old.
And a good condition axle if you have a torsion axle. (This includes the spindle on mid-1960's GT)

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Old 01-21-2009, 08:35 AM   #27
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very good point shari. i guess i should explore the single beefy axle concept now that i have gone to the opposite extreme. i would like to hear some testimonials of those who have bigger vintage single axle airstreams and their experiences on the road when the worst happens. what does the trailer do when you get a flat? how does it act? i would imagine you can feel a flat coming? a blowout?
and thanks for the link, cameron. nice toaster!
The single axle is ok, but a tandem offers much greater payload capacity, as well as safety.

No, you normally cannot feel a tire going soft. A "blowout" especially on a single axle trailer, can easily cause a loss of control accident, unless you have a "HUGE" tow vehicle, like a semi-truck.

Which way to go, for you???

You must start with drawings, placing each and every piece of equipment you wish to have, in it's place, at least for starters.

That will basically dictate what you should and must do.

Only you know what all you want the trailer to carry, and then have it reviewed by someone that can create your project.

Opinions are always great, but facts are far more reliable.

Which trailer you chose, is very important as Action pointed out.

Andy
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Old 01-21-2009, 10:11 AM   #28
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Shair's points about wanting to mount equipment solidly are certainly valid. However, by refrigerator is over the wheel well on my 34' Excella. It rests on a welded aluminum angle frame that supports the floor of the refrigerator compartment. You can see it in a couple of photos in this thread: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...aes-44474.html
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